Building a 10/22

[Colonel Daddy]

Being the owner of several stock 10/22's, I've decided to try my hand at customizing one or two. My idea is either a BX25 trigger unit or a Volquartson trigger and hammer kit along with recoil buffers. Asking those with hands-on experience for your thoughts and ideas on these two. Also plan on a .920 spiral black barrel of 16 to 18 in. length and also, any problem adding a stainless barrel to a black receiver. For stock I'm considering a black factory .920 with a schnable (sp) frond tip. I've only found 2 of these and I own one, tho both were for standard barrels! This will not be a competition build, just something I would like to have. Thoughts and ideas from the more experienced would be appreciated!

 

[9x19]

I prefer Volquartsen trigger parts over the BX offerings I've tried.

No problem mixing finishes, but I dont think there is enough meat in a full length stock to inlet it for a .920" barrel.

 

[Mobuck]

I just received and tested my first BX trigger group. A big improvement in pull weight and feel over the gnarly trigger it replaced but only marginally better than some standard triggers on other 10-22's. I'll use the take out trigger group to rebuild using VQ parts and see how that compares.
I've never seen the purpose of the .920 barrel on a 10-22. Adding the weight "MAY" improve the steadiness of the platform in some types of shooting but the heavy barrel is not really needed for accuracy on a 22lr. The rimfire doesn't generate the heat or vibration of a centerfire and therefore, you don't need the thick barrel to moderate either.
I concur that you can't just hog out a standard profile stock for a .920 barrel.

 

[Pat-inCO]

I "built" one that I got back in '66 that had WAY North of 35K rounds. It was slowly
increasing the size of groups. I put a VQ trigger in it, a carbon fiber .9 barrel and
an OEM stock. Added an inexpensive 3to9 AO scope.

Total weight for everything is a tad under five pounds.
Just over 1/2" 10 round groups at fifty yards.

Only "problem" is that the trigger reset is very quick. So quick that I have had it
triple on me. One guy at the range got mightily upset about that, so I put a fresh
magazine in it and said "You try it" He did and it was one . at . a . time for the full
mag. I then put in another mag and did a triple. He shut up and went away.
The "secret" was in holding the rifle VERY gently, and squeezing the trigger VERY
slowly. The recoil is enough to reset the trigger, and as it settles in it fires again.
Hold it firmly and it is one . at . a . time. 8)

Only one I've built and probably will be the only one.

 

[gunzo]

I'm a big fan of reduced power recoil springs along with a buffer & an aftermarket ground extractor. And,,, the best trigger my wallet will allow.
For grins, shoot that combo with the stock barrel before it's changed. Might be interesting, or not.

 

[Colonel Daddy]

Looks like maybe staying with factory contoured barrel with some type aftermarket stock to eliminate the barrel band, plus a few other goodies. More suggestions? Things you like or don't like?

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

Once you go with a Tony Kidd trigger, the others pale:

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

Looks like maybe staying with factory contoured barrel with some type aftermarket stock to eliminate the barrel band, plus a few other goodies. More suggestions? Things you like or don't like?

A 0.9200 diameter heavy barrel can indeed be inletted into the barrel channel of a factory wood stock for the 10/22. The very front end of the stock, which tapers down on the outside diameter would get pretty dang thin though, so I'd recommend that end be cut off. The factory barrel band will not work with the 0.9200 diameter barrel anyway, and not one of the aftermarket stocks I've seen, or used, provide for that useless accouterment anyway. Better to have the 0.9200 diameter barrel either free floated from the action forward, or completely bedded the full length of the barrel channel.
Rarely do .22 rimfire actions wander around in the stock when shooting 'em, but if one feels the need, I'd recommend that the action itself be bedded solidly. WHY? There's only one action screw drawing the action down and into the stock.
Some folks want to have an action tang added so that the rear end of the action can be set into a solid condition to prevent what some claim they have encountered: "Barrel Droop" with the heavier 0.9200 diameter barrels. So, what the customer wants:

Once the cylindrical nut is glued into the stock and the screw is turned into that nut, the receiver is very solid in the wood stock and the 0.9200 diameter barrel is free to float without any "droop".