Blackhawk with the stinking lock grip question

gunman42782

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Well, I said I would never, but I traded for a Blackhawk in .45 Colt that has that new fangled lawyer lock under the grips. Now, I despise those plastic grips they ship with the guns now, and have a question about if a set of wood grips from a regular pre-lock Blackhawk will fit. Rugers web site specifically says the grips are for Blackhawks without the lock, but from what I read at Midway USA from folks that bought the regular grips, it is a simple fix to make them fit. Anybody here have expereince with this?
 
The only Blackhawks that have a problem with flat backed grips are the new flattops. That's because they have the New XR3 grip frame. This grip frame is only 7/16" in width and the lock is .480" in width, thus the need for a recess in flat backed grips.

The regular Blackhawks with the alloy grip frame and locks have no problem with flat backed grips since the grip frame is still .500" in width and wider than the locks. Just measure the width of your grip frame.

Your .45 cal Blackhawk will have the 1/2" wide alloy grip frame on it. Any XR3-RED profile grips will fit it.

XR3-RED = Blackhawk - Vaquero - Single Six - Old Army.

It's hard to believe there is still so much misinformation on the Ruger lock thing.
 
Cary is correct, you don't have a problem. Wood Ruger grips for the XR3 RED grip frame will fit. They will probably need to be trimmed slightly for a perfect fit around the edges because the alum alloy grip frames with the black grips seem to come a little skimpier around the edges than the steel frames the walnut grips are made for.

And you can eliminate the lock by making a replacement bracket:
orig.jpg
 
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Thanks everybody. I thought they would fit, but Ruger's own website is what had me a tad confused. Thanks again.
 
gunman42782 said:
Thanks everybody. I thought they would fit, but Ruger's own website is what had me a tad confused.

...as it likes to do. It's not edited/maintained very consistently in some regards.
 
Hondo44 said:
And you can eliminate the lock by making a replacement bracket.......

Very nice! I've made them out of aluminum "bar stock" but your
solution is "clean"!

I sized mine to accommodate the standard mainspring/strut assembly instead of the smaller "lock" design spring and strut.

flatgate
 
Can one not simply order the part from Ruger or Brownells? The S/S models have no locking piece - is that correct?

Monty
 
Montelores said:
Can one not simply order the part from Ruger or Brownells? The S/S models have no locking piece - is that correct?

Monty

No, the non-lock bracket/spring seat is too short. If you know someone who welds, just take two, cut one end off of each so the slot joins and weld together.
 
Another interesting way to eliminate the lock is with Wes Fargo's hammer overtravel stop kit for $35:

http://cas-town.com/WestFargoGunsmith/parts.html

It actually blocks the bottom of the mainspring strut. Once it's tuned correctly it will eliminate some sources of stress in the rest of the action and *partially* help reduce damage caused by fanning or very enthusiastic hammer-slipping.

That said, there are ZERO recorded instances of the Ruger lock accidentally engaging. This includes the Ruger LCR series, which due to their light weight (13 to 17oz) should be the one place you'd see it happen if it was going to happen.

Look...Ruger's approach to the lock was pretty respectable as such things go. It doesn't hose the trigger feel or reliability. They tested it starting in 2004 in a series of guns less likely to be pressed into defensive service (New Vaquero, etc.) and then when it proved itself there for years, migrated it over to the more combat-oriented LCRs. It will likely show up in revised models of other wheelguns later.
 
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