Accuracy testing a Single Six

Hylander

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So took a nice older NM Single Six to the range this morning.
Gun was was thoroughly cleaned before hand.
First experience with a NM Single Six, 22LR and 22 Mag.
Tested a few different brands of ammo.
All groups shot at only 10yds., avg. for 6 shot groups

First .22LR:

First: Win. 555 Bulk 1.69"
Second: Mini-Mag HP 1.23"
Third: Blazer .95
Fourth: CCI Standard .72

Second: .22 Mag:

I fired three different brands and types, they were all bad.
Averaging 4", Shotgun Patterns :(
I really want to like it but the accuracy seems sub par.
I know about the Compromise bore size, but is this the norm for a Single Six ?

.22LR groups .67 and .78

51410429447_66c74aa6e6.jpg


.22 Mag is 4.020 :shock:

51411173296_1fa851c9a2_z.jpg
 
You didn't say how you tested so I'm guessing it's off a bench.

35-40 years ago I tested 3 brands of 22LR ​in my '75 SS @ 25 yds off sandbags. I shot 6-6 rd. groups of each brand. I got the following results:

1) CCI Mini Mag HP 1.98"

2) Winchester Western Power Point HP 1.84"

3) Remington Golden Bullets HP 2.6"

I used to be a pretty good bench shooter, but I'm certain it was capable of better groups. I never shot bulk ammo back then.

I did sight it in once off bags with Winchester SuperX 40 gr. 22 Mag. JHP's. I didn't measure the groups, but I remember being satisfied with them so they couldn't have been much different than the 22LR's as far as accuracy.
 
For me, it's unfortunate that the "ballisticsbytheinch" website did not do accuracy testing. But they did do a whole lot of other stuff, including how inappropriate it is/was to offer .22 Mag for handguns. Said cartridge was designed for rifles, in which the increased powder charge could be utilized by a rifle's longer barrel. In a handgun it simply results in blast, noise, and a lot of light.
JMHO
 
Hylander - Just my thoughts....if the revolver was purchased used, see if the 3 etched digits on the 22 Mag cylinder face, match the last 3 of the serial number to see if the cylinder is original to the revolver. If you have a way to measure the cylinder throats in comparison to the LR cylinder? I have 2 different NM Single Sixes dual cylinder models, a 2016 SS with a 4 5/8" bbl, which I purchased new, and a 1990 Blued model with a 9 1/2" bbl, which I picked up used - original box and cylinders, but in very nice condition about 6 months ago. I shoot more 22 Mag ammo thru them, than LR, but I'm a fan of the Mag round. I'm not the greatest shot, but both will go into 1-1.5" at 25yds of a bench and bags, if I do my part - most recently that was with CCI Maxi Mag JHPs. I will say that both have Belt Mountain base pins, which seemed to make the action much "tighter". I did not do any testing with either one, before I swapped the pins, so I have no before and after comparisons. If it shoots your LR well, then just my guess, that it may be an issue with the Mag cylinder. Hope that helps - Bill in MA
 
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msp2640,
The mag cylinder is not matched to the gun. I think it is from a 3 screw as it is fluted. All measurements are proper, lockup is tight. Pretty sure timing is off.
 
It's funny you mention that, as I'm a fan of the fluted cylinder look vs the non fluted look. After receiving the blued long barreled model, I started to look around for a fluted cylinder, purely for the look. Sticking to the old adage, shoot it first before making changes - I highly doubt a different fluted cylinder would shoot better than the factory non fluted model on mine. After firing it the first few times, I gave up the idea.........doesn't mean I gave up the thought of having the Mag cylinder sent out to have it "fluted" but probably not worth the cost, rebluing, which probably won't match and it would most likely shoot exactly the same! I have read here, that early NM Mag cylinders were fluted as well until 1975 or so, but I'm not sure where I got that info. Thanks, Bill
 
I have several convertible single sixes and they all shoot well with the magnum cyls. Better with some ammo than others

First you need to fire 4 rounds from each chamber with a separate target for each chamber. That'll tell you if you just have a bad chamber or a couple of bad chambers in the mag cyl.

If you're flinching when shooting the mag ammo because of recoil, noise or both, or even if you're not, have someone you know that shoots well, shoot the gun from a bench rest.

Let us know the results and we'll go from there for solutions.

If the cyl locks up on each chamber when hammer is cocked and you don't have lead spitting from the barrel/cyl gap, you don't have a timing problem.

Are there any numbers at all pencil engraved or stamped on the front face of the cyl (use magnification and clean the surface to see them)? It could be the original cyl, why do you think it isn't?

Serial numbers are not full proof for when the gun was made. Fluted mag cyls were shipped in guns at least thru 1976 and some even later.
 
Hondo44 said:
I have several convertible single sixes and they all shoot well with the magnum cyls. Better with some ammo than others

First you need to fire 4 rounds from each chamber with a separate target for each chamber. That'll tell you if you just have a bad chamber or a couple of bad chambers in the mag cyl.

No bad chambers, I did test each one

If you're flinching when shooting the mag ammo because of recoil, noise or both, or even if you're not, have someone you know that shoots well, shoot the gun from a bench rest.

Shooting is from a solid rest.
No flinching, I shoot 44Mag with full house loads and group under 2" at 50yds. (Scoped)
45 Colt 2"-2.5" at 25yds open sights.


Let us know the results and we'll go from there for solutions.

If the cyl locks up on each chamber when hammer is cocked and you don't have lead spitting from the barrel/cyl gap, you don't have a timing problem.

Lead does Spit with the Mag Cylinder, hits me in the face.
I finally got a chance to check with an Endoscope and timing is off.


Are there any numbers at all pencil engraved or stamped on the front face of the cyl (use magnification and clean the surface to see them)? It could be the original cyl, why do you think it isn't?

Not original, it was acquired separate from a different source.

Serial numbers are not full proof for when the gun was made. Fluted mag cyls were shipped in guns at least thru 1976 and some even later.
 
I think you meant no bad chambers.

But what does that mean? To me that means each chamber grouped it's 4 shots well, either in the center or off center but still tight. Or did every chamber scatter the shots all over? What were your groups like?

The timing is not off, each time you cock the hammer it rotates the cyl to lock up, right?

It sounds like you have a cyl misalignment problem, therefore the lead spitting. You can not correct that with timing. It's a bad cylinder! The cylinder notch locations are not machined in alignment with the chambers to position them in line with the barrel.

Is the lead splatter on the barrel forcing cone all at the same point; 9 o'clock, 3 o'clock or?
 
Hondo44 said:
I think you meant no bad chambers.

Sorry, Yes I did and corrected

But what does that mean? To me that means each chamber grouped it's 4 shots well, either in the center or off center but still tight. Or did every chamber scatter the shots all over? What were your groups like?

The timing is not off, each time you cock the hammer it rotates the cyl to lock up, right?

Yes

It sounds like you have a cyl misalignment problem, therefore the lead spitting. You can not correct that with timing. It's a bad cylinder! The cylinder notch locations are not machined in alignment with the chambers to position them in line with the barrel.

Yes Misalignment, I used the wrong terminology.

Is the lead splatter on the barrel forcing cone all at the same point; 9 o'clock, 3 o'clock or?

Sorry, did not check that, but got hit in the face with spatter.

Thanks for the input, I am learning a lot.
 
Hylander said:
Hondo44 said:
Is the lead splatter on the barrel forcing cone all at the same point; 9 o'clock, 3 o'clock or?

Sorry, did not check that, but got hit in the face with spatter.

Thanks for the input, I am learning a lot.

You will see where the splatter marks are on the forcing cone of the barrel and usually one side or the other or at the top inside edges of the cyl window.
 
What barrel length? 22WMR is not a pistol cartridge so it's gonna have trouble in a short barrel with comprise bore.
Digging up an old thread but:

Yes, it is a very effective handgun cartridge. I have a number of 22mag revolvers and they all shoot very well, regardless of barrel length. I don't know who started this train of thought, but it's wrong.
 
I agree with "GasGuzzler". Look at the ballisticsbytheinch website to see why all one gets is a little velocity, but a whole lot of flash and noise.
 
Digging up an old thread but:

Yes, it is a very effective handgun cartridge. I have a number of 22mag revolvers and they all shoot very well, regardless of barrel length. I don't know who started this train of thought, but it's wrong.
Yes, the person above me necro-posted. Are all of your good shooting 22WMR revolvers 22LR guns with a conversion cylinder? If so, I'm impressed. If they are dedicated 22WMR, you made my point.
I know this is an old thread, but thought I would add this pattern I shot today with my 6.5” barrel
Best I’ve ever shot. Couldn’t believe it.
What distance and rested, etc.?
 
For me I found that the Single Six falls into the 1022 category far as accuracy goes.
I went though 7 or 8 before I found 2 that I could shoot good. I had one that I could not hit a beer can at 25 feet.
The 2 I kept are both 3 screws, a 1963 .22LR came with an extra Magnum cylinder that doesn't really fit and a 1973 Single Six convertible that if I miss it my fault. I don't shoot enough anymore to consider myself a good shooter, but back in the 90's I was shooting over 500 rounds of .22LR a week, plinking and shoot matches. Plus everything else I was shooting
 
I purchased two Ruger single six dual cylinder blued new models the last few years. The 4 5/8" one is like new and I have yet to shoot it.
The 9.5" barreled one was purchased since I had a Colt buntline scout 60 or so years ago!
I was not impressed shooting it offhand at the 100 yard square plate. More misses that hits.
My bull barrelled histandard and ruger hunter shoot better at 100 yards.
 
Yes, the person above me necro-posted. Are all of your good shooting 22WMR revolvers 22LR guns with a conversion cylinder? If so, I'm impressed. If they are dedicated 22WMR, you made my point.
I have both. I have an old model 22Mag only, a single nine, a couple of old models that came to me with 22Mag cyl only, multiple new models with both cylinders and to top it off, an LCR. I have no complaints about any of them. Probably the one that I'm the least impressed with is a Heritage and frankly I haven't spent enough time putting it on paper to make that call. And yes, I've shot more than one that didn't shoot to my satisfaction.
22 Mag may have been originally designed as a rifle cartridge- but it has proven it's worth as a handgun round.
 
My 1977 convertible is as accurate a can be with both the .22lr and Mag cylinders. But my new favorite is the 1955 that I just picked up. It is amazingly accurate.

I would suggest that if you are having problems with the accuracy of a particular gun- get a properly sized rod and check cylinder alignment at lockup. Might be off a hair causing the bullet to enter the forcing cone at a slight angle.
 

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