SOLD 1971 Boxed Old Model Blackhawk Convertible .45 Colt x .45 ACP

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weaselmeatgravy

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This 7.5" old model .45 convertible Blackhawk is not converted and is in very nice condition. It has both cylinders with the red felt back and white box for the second cylinder and also has the brown factory grease paper wrap. No manual or warranty card. Box is in good shape with no blown corners. Serial number should put it at 1971 production. Remember that there were fewer .45 caliber Blackhawks made than there were .44 flattops. Not all of them are convertibles, but this one is.

SPF $1250 shipped FFL to FFL

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More pics to follow...
 

weaselmeatgravy

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The best advice I can give on taking gun pics is to
  1. find/use the macro setting on your camera
  2. use a tripod
If you get good enough results from just that, you can stop. Otherwise you can move on to indirect lighting and manual aperture/shutter settings.

My camera is not fancy, not even a DSLR, and is 12-15 years old. And only 5 megapixels. You don't need gazillion points of resolution for good gun pics on the web and by the time I edit them to crop out excess background and resize them to a reasonable and consistent width (I use 800 pixels wide), my pics are generally down to around 100-150 KB each. I use a freeware photo editing utility called PhotoFiltre (it's French) that does about anything PhotoShop can do but for free.
 
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At the risk of turning this into a photography thread... the OP is part of the problem (!)... WM just told you that the camera he uses is only 5 megs. As far as an iPhone, my first question would be just what model/how old? Any iPhone that is only 2-3 years old has a great camera... much better than full sized cameras of not that long ago. And iPhones can be used in a macro mode and they can be used on a tripod. And they can be used in full manual mode. I'm a big time Lumix G9 (MFT's) guy at this point in time with a table full of lenses... but an iPhone of recent vintage can do amazing photography. There is a reason I walk around with an iPhone Pro Max in my pocket...

My "tip" beyond hardware is what I try to teach anyone who asks me for help. Never forget that photography is _primarily_ about light. You can take an amazing photo of something small and unimportant... if the light and the texture is really what the photo is about. Conversely, you can take a very mundane photo of an amazing subject because you didn't really think about the direction of the light, the intensity of the light, the temperature of the light... and the way that all interacts with the texture of your subject.

Think of the great classic painters of the 17 and 1800's... some of their most revered works are something like a bowl of fruit on a table. Not because there was something special about those fruits or that bowl or that table... it was the way they let the light frame and carve and truly "illuminate" the subject. A great photograph lets us something we have seen many times... and yet we see it with new eyes. Or another's eyes. It makes you stop and really look at it, makes you really consider it. That's the difference between great photography, art photography if you like, compared to journalistic photography. The first is about the light, the second is really about the content, the subject, the split second event. The very, very best somehow "get lucky" and get both those sides of photography in one photo... and that can be stunning.
 

weaselmeatgravy

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At the risk of turning this into a photography thread... the OP is part of the problem (!)...
I'm not sure why I am part of the problem, I was only trying to get across that you don't need an expensive rig to take decent shots of guns. This is the exact model camera that I use, Buy Now for 30 bucks:
and like I said, mine is pretty old, maybe 12-15 years (of course it was more expensive when new, maybe $250 at Walmart, and there have been many upgraded models come along since). It's so old the serial output port is mini-USB. But it gets the job done. It has full manual control as well as auto-everything if needed. My bench is set up with a random collection of 4 lights pointed up at the acoustical tiled basement ceiling, reflecting down to the bench. My tripod was inherited from my dad, he probably bought it in the 1950's, but it ain't broke so doesn't need fixin'. I took a bunch of test pics years ago with different manual settings and settled on simulated "film speed" of ISO 100 (pretty normal, not high speed), F5.6 aperture (fairly wide for lower light and better depth of field), and 1/8 second shutter speed (fairly slow for the lower light - and also why the tripod is recommended). My freebie post-processing program is for final tweaks that may have been introduced by taking pics in the day when excess daylight bleeds in through the blinds, or for compensating for subject variation depending on whether the gun is blue (may require a "+" click on gamma correction) or stainless (may require "-" gamma). And even though the camera is only 5.1MP, the pics are still too large for web presentation so after cropping out the excess background, I still have to shrink them down to 800 pixel width,

Cell phones can take great pictures. My phone is a Galaxy S22 Ultra and has so many cameras that I lost track of all the resolutions, but I think the top dog is 108 MP. That's way more than needed to take good pics of small objects at a reasonable size for web viewing, and the file sizes are correspondingly huge. By the time you shrink those down to size, I can't imagine the resolution being any better cuz pixels are pixels and everything gets averaged and approximated when resizing.

I stand by my suggestion that the number 1 best advice for gun pics is to use the macro mode on whatever camera you have so that it can properly focus on close objects.
 
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WMG
Your two most valuable recommendations are in using multiple lights in a reflective pattern and using a tripod. Just about any other camera will work if those two things are done.
Also, why outdoor shots are best done on an overcast day.
 

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