10/22 bolt work

[maineultraclassic]

I'm having a lot of failure to fire with my 10/22..........and from what I've read it could be due to the bolt being out of spec.

I've found a couple places online that do a complete bolt reworking between $40 to $60.

Does anyone have any recommendations for this service from someone they have used in the past?

I'm also going to do an extra power hammer spring too.

 

[rugerguy]

other things to consider with 'misfire', firing pin shape ( nose), drag (burrs), the chamber, and obviously the ammo !!! and the MOST frequent, dirt, and fouling , of the bolt face as well as around the breach........

good luck

 

[maineultraclassic]

Gun is completely clean and oil free.

Ammo is brand new, got rid of my old stuff that I thought was the problem.

Everything else is on the table as the problem.

 

[rugerguy]

chamber is "round" ( true) no divots or pin nicks in the edge of the chamber, run a reamer, clean the chamber, gets crud in there over time, gas blowby etc. does not always "clean" out completely, I see many bores and chambers that are bright and shiny, the owners only made them that way , over the leading and fouling...............then modify the pin , to "extend" out a bit further ?? they can and will blunt, flatten out in time, and use....all too often we simply find that changing the 'nose' will make the rounds ignite ( fire ) better. The when all of this fails, then one may have to look at the "make up " of the bolt, but I cannot remember ever having to change one in any of our shops............springs, firing pins, cleaning, chamber and ammo, not always in that order........

again, good luck

 

[Precision32]

I have only found one 10-22 out of the many I have sold or smithed on the had a proper firing pin protrusion. I always set this at 0.030" and don't have failures to fire unless the ammo is bad. As a minimum the firing pin should have a minimum of 0.025" protrusion with the back of the firing pin even with the back of the bolt.

PM me if you need more info.

 

[blume357]

I think I'd let someone in the know work on it... but not just the bolt but the receiver and chamber (back end of the barrel too)... I like to mess with the 10/22 when I get a chance but really don't know much about what I'm doing... someone like Precision32 above can probably fix it and have it running perfectly for the next 20-30 years. Then again, that's kind of what you were asking about and I can't help with a reference.

 

[9x19]

For me, Randy is still the best... www.ctprecision.com

He pioneered most of the popular 10/22 mods, and his work is excellent with usually a quick turnaround.

 

[maineultraclassic]

Here are a couple pictures of my bolt.

Not sure if that helps in anything or not.

Steve

 

[Precision32]

PM sent.

 

[maineultraclassic]

A person on another Ruger forum mentioned about the "carbon ring" that happens in the barrel sometimes. It restricts the casing from getting fully seated, and when the firing pin hits it the bullet just moves forward but doesn't fire. So I took the barrel off the gun so I could do a good cleaning of it, used a spent casing for testing, and sure enough the casing wouldn't fully seat without some help. So I used a brass brush and cleaner and gave it a good cleaning, and after the casing dropped in effortlessly.

So maybe, just maybe that will fix my issue. Find out today in the pit.

 

[maineultraclassic]

While the carbon ring was there and needed to be cleaned, it was not the issue.
It appears the firing pin is rising and not hitting correctly. Here is a picture of a couple of the rounds that didn't fire.

So I'll be sending out my bolt for a rework this week.

Steve

 

[mohavesam]

For me, Randy is still the best... http://www.ctprecision.com

He pioneered most of the popular 10/22 mods, and his work is excellent with usually a quick turnaround.

+1. Real gunsmithing, not just "drop-in" parts. 10/22s are the definition of mass-production, call Randy and get yours trued and accurate!

 

[Pat-inCO]

Have you called Ruger to ask for suggestions?

 

[T.A. WORKMAN]

I always switch out the factory bolt when I am doing a build, with a JW Hardin CNC machined bolt, google them or go to ebay.

They are a "Drop In" accessory but guaranteed quality right up there with the big boys KIDD & Volq, IMHO.
BIG difference between a cast bolt and a solid steel CNC machined bolt.

Seeing as all you want do is get yours up and running the advise you have been given would be the way to go.
best,
Terry

 

[kwh]

^ Randy ctprecision
77/22 & 10/22 accuracy and trigger work for me.