#1 in .220 Swift?

toysoldier

Hunter
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Hutchinson, KS USA
My uncle tells me he has a #1 in .220 Swift that he acquired over 20 years ago. He never fired it, and was thinking about what he could get it rechambered to. I suggested he find out what it's worth as is, maybe sell it and buy another in a caliber he wanted. I know I need more information, but thought I'd post this and get the conversation going.
 
toysoldier said:
My uncle tells me he has a #1 in .220 Swift that he acquired over 20 years ago. He never fired it, and was thinking about what he could get it rechambered to. I suggested he find out what it's worth as is, maybe sell it and buy another in a caliber he wanted. I know I need more information, but thought I'd post this and get the conversation going.

What's wrong with .220 Swift? What caliber is he considering or what does he want to shoot or hunt with it? I've always like the idea of the .220 Swift caliber so I wouldn't rechamber it. I think that would hurt the value of the gun.
 
My uncle is in his early 70's. He isn't interested in the .220, and wants something else. I agree that rechambering isn't practical and would hurt the value of the gun. That's why I suggested he sell it or swap it for something that appeals to him.
 
Rebarreling would be the better option, but I wouldn't do anything with it other than shoot it.

Rechambering choices are very limited without setting the barrel way back, which opens up a whole series of other problems.

Your uncle's serious shooting years are somewhat limited at this point, but I guess we want what we want.
 
A lot of folks think that the 220 swift is the topline of the 22 centerfires, lots of cartridges made up to top it, but the old round holds its own. The only update I might mention to the existing is to set back and ream to the 220 A.I. which gives no real more speed but the brass has some attributes if you reload.

You did not say if standard or varmint weight barrel, but to most that is a moot point. Rebarreling is one avenue to consider, as a No.1 action supports whatever, only the ejector varies and is a 10 buck part. The rebarreling gives you a premium barrel, but at the added expense of a blank and the extra timing of ejector slot/scope bases on the barrel that means more time in the machines, hence more cost to do than say a typical bolt gun. Modifications to forends bothers me not if needed.

If you take the No.1 in to a gunshop for trade, do not be surprised at the offering, it will not be much. Probably less than than an bare action offered on Gunbroker. The rifle does have a lot of flexiblities as to caliber and configurations with the basic action, I rebarrel every No.1 that I buy, but just one of those personal choices you know; just to get the premium barrel in the rifle makeup.

I suspect there are a lot of shooting years left, plenty of time to enjoy new rifles.
 
If he's thinking of staying in he 22 CF range, there isn't much he can or needs to do.

If it's a matter of wanting something bigger in caliber to hunt big game with, from a 243 on up he would better better off finding a trade.

The Swift came out as a "B" standard rifle in the #1 in 1979 and the "V" in 1980. As such they are well past the cosmetic and engineering changes and essentially look like a new one in that respect.

That said for guys that covet #1s earlier is usually better. If it has decent wood he may be able to simply swap it for something else more in line if what he wants.

Re-chambering the existing barrel is impractical and won't gain him much if anything balistically in a 22 CF. The 220 AI isn't worth the time/trouble and expense unless you shoot a LOT and brass stretching is the issue. So you are left with with re-barreling or re-boring. I have done both. UNLESS you can do the work yourself (Roof) both can become expensive. Figure a new bare barrel at $250-$350 and then add the labor and your looking at a minimum of $500. Re-boring can be a bit cheaper and yes a new extractor doesn't cost much. BUT if you end of changing extractors due to cartridge/caliber changes you also have the cost of correcting the extractor slot.

Any of this makes it a altered #1 and DECREASES it's value. The Swift was made from 1979 till 2006 and was just re-released for this year as a "V". They certainly aren't rare

What does he want? My best suggestion is to offer it here or the #1 Site for trade and post a few pictures. Likely you can find somebody that will trade with a lit boot going one way or the other predicated on what exactly he has and what it looks like and what he wants. Heck if he want's a 243, 270, 30-06 etc he might even come out $ ahead on the deal. It all depends on what he has and what he wants. The Swifts out there right now are being offered on sites for $1000-$1200 and frankly they are very slow sellers.

Good luck

Ross

There is one other way to go that would be cheaper. Find a take off #1 barrel in the cartridge he wants and re-barrel with it. He could probably keep the cost way down. At worst the barrel might need to be set back a thread or two to head space and index correctly. That requires the you re-ream the chamber but the taper and profile and finish costs will be saved. It'll already be drilled for the rib or blocks and crowned etc. MOST of my wildcats started life this way.

RWT
 
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Sell that one and buy one in the caliber he'd like - should end up costing zero or very litte. I could see a rebarrel if it was shot out.
 
I have a No1 varmint in 220 Swift and don't think they're at all scarce or highly prized No1 rifles.

I can't think of a popular 22 centerfire that can be done by doing a plain old rechamber - isn't the 220 Swift sufficiently long and wide that anything like a 22-250 or 225 Winchester will be too short, to small in diameter? Also, is this the Varmint profile barrel?

I think a rebarrel has to take into consideration extractor work too.

I'd be inclined to sell and then buy what I prefer, unless "what I prefer" is something Ruger doesn't make in the No1 anymore.
 
The other option is re-boring to a larger caliber. As I recall, the 220 Swift has the 6mm Navy as a parent cartridge, so without looking at my cartridge conversion handbook, I'm not sure what modern cartridge would be easiest for a re-bore, but something like 6mm Rem, or anything as long or longer based on the .473 casehead should work.
 
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