10mm Ruger Blackhawk with a Super Blackhawk "Dragoon" grip frame

cee_Kamp

Single-Sixer
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May 5, 2011
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149
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upstate NY
I recently sourced several beautiful stainless "Dragoon" Super Blackhawk grip frames here in the classifieds. (thanks PapaDetail)
Over time, I have been swapping out XR 3 grip frames on my Ruger single action revolvers.
I like the looks/style of the XR 3, but unfortunately for me, I inherited 2 XL glove size hands from Dad.

The Bisley just doesn't do it for me visually.

I prefer the Ruger Hunter grip frame, but good used unmolested Hunter grip frames are much harder to source, than Super Blackhawk Dragoon type.
I've sold 7-1/2" Super Blackhawks in .44 Mag and replaced them with Ruger Hunter .44 Mag models.
I've also added Hunter grip frames to short barrel Super Blackhawks in .44 Mag to get all my fingers wrapped around the grip with the extra 3/8" longer grip frame length.
I've got all of my Super Blackhawks in .44 Magnum set up now with the Hunter grip frames. They don't smack my knuckle.

This Lipsey's exclusive Blackhawk in 10mm/.40 had the shorter XR 3 grip frame, and not nearly the recoil of a .44 Mag.
I think I can get away with a Dragoon grip frame here on a 10mm, as it's much more modest recoil compared to .44 Mag and shouldn't bang my knuckle.
Grips are Hogue black linen Micarta.

I haven't completely decided what the second Dragoon grip frame is going onto yet.

PXL_20260314_164941470 by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

PXL_20260322_201244152 by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr
 
I also much prefer the SBH Hunter grip especially with Bisley triggers.
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Even on OM mid frames.
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You'd really have a problem banging knuckles with the XR3 grip. The new model Blackhawks come with the XR3-RED size grip.

This Lipsey's exclusive Blackhawk in 10mm/.40 had the shorter XR 3 grip frame, and not nearly the recoil of a .44 Mag.

 

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This thread goes directly to what I share often. Each person has to find a grip that fits THEIR hands.

Those look good!

" Blackhawk in 10mm/.40

Blasphemy!"

I know you said "In your opinion," but they have become a very desirable gun to many. And they aren't cheap!
 
Yup I know....but I just don't understand it, aside from the targeted marketing aspect. If folks like and enjoy them cool...But then I was never much on the 45 or 9mm convertibles either. But I'm just me and not the masses.
 
All Ruger single action revolvers (except for the Bearcat with the integral grip frame) have the same hole spacing/pattern.
Some will require more fitting than others.
New Model grip frame swapped over onto another New Model is easier.
In factory Ruger offerings, the Hunter and the Dragoon are identical in grip frame length, the only difference is the round trigger guard and the flat back trigger guard. So "both" are considered to be the "largest" factory grip frames.
The Dragoon type has had complaints with smacking the middle finger knuckle under heavy caliber recoil.

I think my remaining Dragoon grip frame is going onto a vintage stainless dual cylinder .22 rimfire Single Six.
 
After acquiring a new replacement frame, where do you send it to mill the sides flat so that custom grips fit properly? I have one now and have this dilemma ever since my original guy is out of commission.
 
Hmmm grip frames should be flat and parallel, unless they are raw castings?
The “replacement” grip frame is not refined like the one that comes on a new revolver. It needs a lot of work and not just in order to fit it to a new cylinder frame. Before the grip maker does a nice set of exotic wood for it, the “replacement” frame we get from MidWay needs work. Ideally, it gets fitted to the new cylinder frame first, and that’s when the sides are milled flat before the wood panels are made for it.
 
I think my remaining Dragoon grip frame is going onto a vintage stainless dual cylinder .22 rimfire Single Six.
One of my first projects over 20 years ago; before the Hunter came along. An OM Super Single Six convertible with Dragoon grip, 9 1/2" barrel, 5" ejector rod from the 10" SBH, and SBH hammer (shortened of course).
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After acquiring a new replacement frame, where do you send it to mill the sides flat so that custom grips fit properly? I have one now and have this dilemma ever since my original guy is out of commission.
Fitting is done by hand- installing the new frame, marking a scribe line on the new frame, remove and sand new frame down to the scribe line. It sounds simple, and it really is- it just takes time and patience as you end up repeating the process multiple times to get it “perfect”.

You can speed up the process using a belt sander for the initial cut- but remember, once metal is removed you can’t just stick it back on.

I like working with brass frames, I just wish they didn’t add so much weight. Brass cuts at about the perfect rate. Aluminum cuts easily and quickly, but that makes it easy to go too far. And carbon steel or stainless cuts the slowest- that leads to a great fit but sore fingers and shoulders.

A little tip. I use wet/dry paper on a marble slab. I wet the slab and paper, it sticks down flat that way. The ears on either side of the hammer cut faster than the side flats- so be careful to watch that you don’t remove too much too quickly from them.
 
Not all grip frame fitting needs to be done by hand if you have a properly equipped machine shop at home.
When you have at your personal disposal, a Bridgeport vertical mill, a small horizontal mill, metal lathe, lathe tool post grinder, multiple drill presses, sanders, grinders, shaper, power hacksaw, and a lifelong collection of hand tools along with hand held power tools, the ONLY time you send a firearm out for something is when it's a warranty job being repaired at the factory for free.

Additionally, several Grade "AA" granite surface plates, oxy-acetylene, and electric welders.
I really enjoy taking as much time as I need for getting it "right" the first time. Which isn't always the case at the factory.
And NO, I do not take in any outside work. My "guard dog" is also vicious.

IMG_20171030_175825563 by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

IMG_20171030_175806312 by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr
 
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