Curious as to what powder is in your favorite .38 Spl loads? I've been using W231 for two decades for all my .38 Spl and 9mm practice loads. There are always some soot deposits on the frame and cylinder after a session, but they wipe clean easily. I can't recall what I measured my GP-100's...
Safariland makes a Comp I speedloader that works on the Redhawk. I long ago switched from HKS to Safariland speedloaders for all of my revolvers. The *push-in to release* operation of the Safariland seems to work better for me.
When I used the stock wood grips on my RH, I relieved the wood...
Hogue should try also producing many of their particular applications *without* finger grooves. I have tried Hogues on two revolvers, and even tried sanding down one (stopped when the nylon base started showing through). On all of my DA revolvers, I have *contoured* the grips somewhat, even on...
In the '80s, I used SR4756 for max loading in .45 ACP. Now that I don't have anymore .45 ACP guns, I've been using what's left (powder) for some mid-range .44 Mag loads for 240 gr bullets. The loads seem to be acceptably accurate for plinking at 100 yds w/ my Marlin levergun.
I've been working up a .44 Mag load with Speer Gold Dot 270 gr. JSP bullets and W296 powder. I'm using it in my Marlin 1894, and it is intended as a 50-100 yd wild pig load, but it could suffice for hunting the Columbian Blacktail deer in our area at those ranges.
For pure deer hunting, I...
Ya don't even need that. The rim of a cartridge case works for me to remove the GP's grip screw. After that, no tools needed.
Try that with a S&W revolver...
I've heard the Saeco tester is pretty good.
I'm just getting into casting, so I'm not an expert in the field.
From what I understand, the ideal alloy will be hard enough to not *smear* lead in the barrel, but soft enough to obturate properly in the bore and seal against powder gasses from...