Generic 1911 question(s)

[frontstuffers]

Greetings. I was wondering if the bumper/cushion pads for the recoil spring guide actually do any good or are they hype? The second question I had is: I have a Springfield Mil Spec and had on of these in there. It got worn so I went to replace it and then could not reassemble. What is the correct position for these, behind the spring guide or in front of the back of the guide in between that an the spring? Hope I described that correctly.

Anyway, what are your views on these things, help or hype?

Thanks in advance for any replies.

 

[cas6969]

This is one of those questions you NEVER want to ask on a gun forum. You'll get pros and cons, ups and down, needs , designs, possible problems and all out civil war as a response. :roll:

They go between the spring and the guide rod.

 

[s4s4u]

Anyway, what are your views on these things, help or hype?

Unnecessary.

 

[Jeepnik]

Unnecessary.

 

[mohavesam]

John Browning never had access to modern polymers, so he went without. I often ponder what he would have done if he had the options?
Today's pistol owner has those options.
Afterall, Browning was not concerned with the costs of parts-replacement from slide battering. He had military arsenals to cover parts breakage, etc. And he never envisioned sustained use with 21K PSI and 1000+ fps cartridges... like we have today.

Now if everyone fired only 890fps/200gr ball (used to qualify the 1911) and a 14-15 lb. recoil spring; then I'd agree the technology of nylon/polymer buffers might not be necessary nor useful? But in the real world... we look at longevity as increased value. Even though the 1911 will fire without a recoil spring, we don't do that with our own guns now do we?

Its different today. You have the option. IMO you don't find many 1911 owners who inspect their slides & frames with MPI or FPI methods anyway... (which might provide evidence for using a non-metallic buffer). :?

-and I do recommend them on any aluminum frame gun... Over.

oh yes ; magnetic-particle or fluorescent-penetrant inspection. 8)

 

[Precision32]

Wait till one breaks apart and jams up your firearm right when you need it. Millions of 1911s run without one with no damage.

 

[mohavesam]

Wait till one breaks apart and jams up your firearm right when you need it. Millions of 1911s run without one with no damage.

I dunno. Personally I have never, never, ever seen a shok-buff "break apart and jam up a 1911". I asked an instructor buddy who works at Gunsite (up the road) and he shrugged it off - he'd never seen it either. Methinks it is probably a fantasy of magazine writers? I know, all sorts of parts break from time to time... Just speaking from experience.

 

[pruger45]

Dunno?

 

[mcb66]

I have an old Llama 1911 that is a beauty. It really is one of the good ones. I use them in it because I heard so much about soft metallurgy in the Llamas. Whether I need it or not? I don't know. They were cheap and it functions fine with it. So maybe if you have and old (40+ years) or collectible 1911 they are cheap insurance.

 

[frontstuffers]

Thanks for all of the replies and insights. Definitely food for thought. What started this question, in my mind, was using a hand load that I thought might be a little tough on parts. To clarify, I am using a Springfield MilSpec and the load uses a 250 +/- rnfp at ~900 fps. I have replaced the factory recoil spring with a 20lb one. This is a load that I did find in a reloading manual (Lee I think) and is not a max load. Still, I worry about the effects of this load on the pistol. I would also like to try this in the SR 1911 Cdr that I have. I'm not into high power house loads, I just like this one and the accuracy.

Thanks again for the replies.

 

[rugerguy]

yes, they work, yes, they should be changed, not left in "forever", the fiber ones we have never seen one yet, break apart or jam up anything ....washers for headspacing? yes we've SEEN and worked on those that have come apart, and jammed, and so it goes....goes back to the Bible, hammer long enough and you can pound your plowshares into swords, and vice verse.....metal ,pounding on metal, "things happen"...so it goes........ :wink:

put it on the shank (stem) of the recoil guide FIRST< then put on the spring..... 8)


guess many folks have NOT seen ;split or cracked slides on old 1911's............ :roll:

 

[dakota1911]

I don't use them but they are cheap so you can try them and form your own opinion.

 

[cas6969]

Wait till one breaks apart and jams up your firearm right when you need it.

OR... don't wait till one breaks. Sort of like the same way I buy new shoes before my toes are touching the ground.



Myself, I use them on two 1911's, my 10mm and my main match pistol, the rest I don't.

 

[modrifle3]

Wilson swears by them and the logic is sound. It will not hurt anything to add one.

The Wilson flat wire kit and buffer is a nice setup.

 

[mikewriter]

I put a .460 Rowland barrel - from Clark - on a Springfield Mil Spec, and never saw any problems with it as it was.

Mike

 

[Pat-inCO]

This is a load that I did find in a reloading manual (Lee I think) and is
not a max load. Still, I worry about the effects of this load on the pistol.

If you have the correct weight recoil spring, there is . . . no . . . need.
Think about how many thousands of the 1911 ran without one, for
many, many, many, decades.

Easy way to tell if you have the correct weight recoil spring:
Are your empties coming down consistently three to five feet to
your right and just slightly behind you. If so, just enjoy.
(this presumes consistent loads, and proper lube)

 

[bigboredad]

If anyone​has pics of one that has come apart Enough to tie up your gun please post pics I've never seen one do that and so I would appreciate seeing one