flattop conversion
- Thread starter mooshoo
- Start date
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contender
Ruger Guru
Aww Robb,,,, I know it makes mine more valuable. But some things in life are not about $$$$$! Fine old guns shouldn't be butchered. Old beaters, well, they can get new life. Or,,, when a model has many, many thousands made,,, not an issue.
I know that is the Ruger collector thought process Tyrone but I'll keep my butchered up old flat top conversions. You yes, I do have a bone stock Type 1 357 in the safe that won't get converted that is just because the serial number is the exact same as my first year Model 700 Remington 7 Mag. Shoot, I have even been thinking about if a Hawkeye could be made into a 414 Supermag! Just kidding my friend, that last Hawkeye is saved for a friend of mine who lives on the eastern side of the country. 
Hondo44
Hawkeye
I bought a beater to convert.
1958 357 Flat Top 'before' photo:
I like to use all Ruger parts for my conversions, so it looks like it could be a factory produced gun.
I kept all the original parts that were removed.
Below: Completed conversion to 44 Spl, all steel FT (grip frame and housing):
OM Super Blackhawk barrel with eagle, cut to 4 5/8" and resoldered front sight.
Ruger 44 Spl factory cylinder, only now available because of the NM FT mid-size Blackhawk 44 Spls.
Replaced original steel offset slot ejector housing with new straight slot steel hsg for additional ejector length.
Super Blackhawk cylinder pin w/collar; shortened on both ends.
XR3RED Old Army carbon steel grip frame polished ready for bluing with SBH wide trigger.
I had originally adapted the new model XR3 steel grip frame but my loads rapped my knuckle.
Ruger factory old model XR3-RED grip panels which still have black OM medallions, and blued screw and escutcheons.
But with old barrel, cyl, grip frame and housing removed, which had most of the wear, it no longer looks like a beater:
Shown in my gun above is a 44-40 convertible cylinder.
USFA and Uberti make their SAAs with a cylinder that is .020" larger in diameter than the Colt for a little extra strength. That just happens to be the exact diameter of the Ruger mid-size frame cylinder; same length as well. Now I have used a Colt cylinder and you really can't see the .010" difference above and below the cylinder when in a Ruger, but Colt's cylinder in blue 44-40 is about $230 plus bushing cost at Brownell's. I opted for the Uberti cylinder for the larger diameter, the larger ½" radius flutes that match the 1st gen Colts, the black powder front edge chamfer AND the 1st gen style ratchet star is more like the Ruger.
The advantage of the Colt style cylinders is the removable cylinder pin bushing which makes them easier to fit to your frame PLUS you can use the same cylinder in more than one gun by having different bushings to fit each gun. Rugers are consistent enough wth the barrel cyl gap that it's always worked out OK in my guns. And if you mess up fitting the bushing you haven't ruined the cylinder!!
Before fitting the bushing you'll need to take not quite .010" off the rear surface of the star to match the Ruger cylinder and frame. Just use your current Ruger cylinder for the measurement.
Lastly one thing to know but not to be concerned about: the Colt and clone cylinders have slightly wider cylinder notches than Ruger because Ruger uses a skinnier cylinder stop bolt. However this is not an issue and needs no extra fitting. When the hammer is cocked the cylinder pawl locks the cylinder against the right side (deepest part of the notch) and holds it there while the gun fires.
1958 357 Flat Top 'before' photo:
I like to use all Ruger parts for my conversions, so it looks like it could be a factory produced gun.
I kept all the original parts that were removed.
Below: Completed conversion to 44 Spl, all steel FT (grip frame and housing):
OM Super Blackhawk barrel with eagle, cut to 4 5/8" and resoldered front sight.
Ruger 44 Spl factory cylinder, only now available because of the NM FT mid-size Blackhawk 44 Spls.
Replaced original steel offset slot ejector housing with new straight slot steel hsg for additional ejector length.
Super Blackhawk cylinder pin w/collar; shortened on both ends.
XR3RED Old Army carbon steel grip frame polished ready for bluing with SBH wide trigger.
I had originally adapted the new model XR3 steel grip frame but my loads rapped my knuckle.
Ruger factory old model XR3-RED grip panels which still have black OM medallions, and blued screw and escutcheons.
But with old barrel, cyl, grip frame and housing removed, which had most of the wear, it no longer looks like a beater:
Shown in my gun above is a 44-40 convertible cylinder.
USFA and Uberti make their SAAs with a cylinder that is .020" larger in diameter than the Colt for a little extra strength. That just happens to be the exact diameter of the Ruger mid-size frame cylinder; same length as well. Now I have used a Colt cylinder and you really can't see the .010" difference above and below the cylinder when in a Ruger, but Colt's cylinder in blue 44-40 is about $230 plus bushing cost at Brownell's. I opted for the Uberti cylinder for the larger diameter, the larger ½" radius flutes that match the 1st gen Colts, the black powder front edge chamfer AND the 1st gen style ratchet star is more like the Ruger.
The advantage of the Colt style cylinders is the removable cylinder pin bushing which makes them easier to fit to your frame PLUS you can use the same cylinder in more than one gun by having different bushings to fit each gun. Rugers are consistent enough wth the barrel cyl gap that it's always worked out OK in my guns. And if you mess up fitting the bushing you haven't ruined the cylinder!!
Before fitting the bushing you'll need to take not quite .010" off the rear surface of the star to match the Ruger cylinder and frame. Just use your current Ruger cylinder for the measurement.
Lastly one thing to know but not to be concerned about: the Colt and clone cylinders have slightly wider cylinder notches than Ruger because Ruger uses a skinnier cylinder stop bolt. However this is not an issue and needs no extra fitting. When the hammer is cocked the cylinder pawl locks the cylinder against the right side (deepest part of the notch) and holds it there while the gun fires.
Hondo44
Hawkeye
mooshoo ,
Ruger old model mid size 357 to 44 Special just may be the most prolific conversion.
I've seen them from Mild to Wild or roughly three levels. In each case you get what you pay for.
1st level: The premium 357/44 Spl custom conversions are often 'fixed packages' with premium prices that come from the top pistolsmiths listed below. They include line boring, premium Douglas barrels, superb tolerances and accuracy, also many bells and whistles like:
custom sights, locking cyl pin, fancy finish, grips, alloy parts replacement w/steel, action job, and custom caliber remarking, etc.
2nd level: The next or moderate conversions are more basic but can include line boring, Douglas barrel, may be steel replacement parts and custom caliber remarking with a little extra money for some optional bells and whistles.
3rd level: Ruger purist conversions usually use only Ruger factory parts re-worked/re-used, ream cylinder to 44 and cut down a SBH barrel. Ruger steel replacement parts, hand stamped caliber remarking, and are the least expensive. More along the original Skeeter level of conversion.
Colt 3rd gen barrels have the same 24 TPI, will thread right into a Ruger frame, and are already 44 Special marked. Colt cylinders also work fine.
Local gunsmiths usually do the latter level. I prefer the latter mainly because I can do those myself.
What level did you have in mind?
Dave Clements: Jeff had one converted by Dave a long time ago, Dave now calls this conversion the "Jeff Quinn Special":
http://www.clementscustomguns.com/rugerrevolvers.html
http://www.gunblast.com/Clements.htm
Bowen...
http://www.bowenclassicarms.com/catalog/ruger_single_action_basic_caliber_conversions.html
http://www.gunblast.com/Bowen-No5.htm
http://www.gunblast.com/Boge_Bowen-PerfectedBearcat.htm
http://www.gunblast.com/Bowen-327s.htm
http://www.gunblast.com/Boge_BowenBearcat.htm
http://www.gunblast.com/Bowen-SP101.htm
or Alan Harton...
[email protected]
http://www.gunblast.com/AlanHarton.htm
http://www.gunblast.com/Harton-No5.htm
Gallagher. His prices are very reasonable also. http://www.gallagherfirearms.com/ Great guy to deal with.
Andy Horvath
Ben Forkin (http://www.gunblast.com/Forkin44Vaquero.htm)...
Jim Stroh (http://www.alphaprecisioninc.com/)
Vans Custom guns over here in Sandusky, Ohio
Ruger old model mid size 357 to 44 Special just may be the most prolific conversion.
I've seen them from Mild to Wild or roughly three levels. In each case you get what you pay for.
1st level: The premium 357/44 Spl custom conversions are often 'fixed packages' with premium prices that come from the top pistolsmiths listed below. They include line boring, premium Douglas barrels, superb tolerances and accuracy, also many bells and whistles like:
custom sights, locking cyl pin, fancy finish, grips, alloy parts replacement w/steel, action job, and custom caliber remarking, etc.
2nd level: The next or moderate conversions are more basic but can include line boring, Douglas barrel, may be steel replacement parts and custom caliber remarking with a little extra money for some optional bells and whistles.
3rd level: Ruger purist conversions usually use only Ruger factory parts re-worked/re-used, ream cylinder to 44 and cut down a SBH barrel. Ruger steel replacement parts, hand stamped caliber remarking, and are the least expensive. More along the original Skeeter level of conversion.
Colt 3rd gen barrels have the same 24 TPI, will thread right into a Ruger frame, and are already 44 Special marked. Colt cylinders also work fine.
Local gunsmiths usually do the latter level. I prefer the latter mainly because I can do those myself.
What level did you have in mind?
Dave Clements: Jeff had one converted by Dave a long time ago, Dave now calls this conversion the "Jeff Quinn Special":
http://www.clementscustomguns.com/rugerrevolvers.html
http://www.gunblast.com/Clements.htm
Bowen...
http://www.bowenclassicarms.com/catalog/ruger_single_action_basic_caliber_conversions.html
http://www.gunblast.com/Bowen-No5.htm
http://www.gunblast.com/Boge_Bowen-PerfectedBearcat.htm
http://www.gunblast.com/Bowen-327s.htm
http://www.gunblast.com/Boge_BowenBearcat.htm
http://www.gunblast.com/Bowen-SP101.htm
or Alan Harton...
[email protected]
http://www.gunblast.com/AlanHarton.htm
http://www.gunblast.com/Harton-No5.htm
Gallagher. His prices are very reasonable also. http://www.gallagherfirearms.com/ Great guy to deal with.
Andy Horvath
Ben Forkin (http://www.gunblast.com/Forkin44Vaquero.htm)...
Jim Stroh (http://www.alphaprecisioninc.com/)
Vans Custom guns over here in Sandusky, Ohio
Hondo44
Hawkeye
That will be a nice conversion and the cheapest way to go.
newrugersafan
Single-Sixer
44 Special
newrugersafan said:
44 Special
I sent you a PM concerning this gun, but I note you haven't opened it. If it's not too much hassle, could you please respond to my PM, or at least open it so I know you got it? I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks in advance,
:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
newrugersafan
Single-Sixer
PM sent.
newrugersafan said:
PM responded to.
Thanks.
:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Colonel Daddy
Buckeye
Right or wrong, Old Elmer thought he was on to something with his suggestion of ramped protectors for the rear sight of the Single Action Rugers. Was so close to converting one of my .357 Flattops to .44 Special but couldn't bring myself to do it. This caused me to buy another Old Model protected sight and have John Gallagher file it down to a flattop. Have decided this is the way I'll go for future custom Flattops.............and 40 or 50 years later folks will be complaining about how we butchered those old Rugers :roll:
Colonel Daddy
Buckeye
Yes, for a custom I look for an Old Model whose finish is far from perfect, maybe the bore isn't all that great and maybe the barrel and grip frame are dinged. These are ready for a new lease on life!contender said:
CraigC
Hawkeye
Whether you start with a nicer example or a beater, you're going to pay for a nice end result. Beaters often take a good bit of work to correct dings, deep scratches and pitting. That can easily exceed the cost of starting with a nicer gun at the onset.
