Is there a fix for New Model Ruger Blackhawk timing?

Is there a way to make a New Model Blackhawk's cylinder latch pop up at the proper time, rather than well before the notch leads? Thanks
Matt

The owner of this site had modified some of his guns to achieve this but it takes modifying either the bolt or the trigger plunger if I am not mistaken. The bolt mods include some welding and reshaping of one of the ends and it does look to be a challenging task.

By design, "well before the notch leads" is the "proper" time.

http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=110271&hilit=Plunger

Plunger mod discussed here.

http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=178091&p=1776284&hilit=Plunger+length#p1776284

This kinda thing used to bug me too, the more I shoot, it just does not bother me.
Same thing with the "billboard" that used to be placed on the side of the barrel.
I'm now more into the smooth, accurate, slick function. Good honest wear and tear appreciated. :wink:

This leads me to think that those who worry about these kind of things spend more time polishing, cleaning, caressing, fondling,,,,, -vs- shooting.
That's ok, there are many different ways to enjoy the hobby.

For the Ruger design, it IS the proper time.
You'd be essentially re-building part of the gun, and since it's a cosmetic-only issue, most don't care or bother.
Denis

pisgah said:

By design, "well before the notch leads" is the "proper" time.

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Indeed!

G2 said:

http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=110271&hilit=Plunger

Plunger mod discussed here.

http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=178091&p=1776284&hilit=Plunger+length#p1776284



This leads me to think that those who worry about these kind of things spend more time polishing, cleaning, caressing, fondling,,,,, -vs- shooting.
That's ok, there are many different ways to enjoy the hobby.

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I shoot plenty. I'm just thinking of putting together a nice revolver with a bunch of parts from Power Custom and then sending it to Turnbull for his vintage treatment. Never owned anything but good "shooters". As to the new models timing being proper by design, I think that it is more a side effect of the safety modification that the company decided they could live with, rather than something intentionally designed into the gun. I've lived with it for 25 years of shooting my NM blackhawks with no problem. I was just wondering if it could be "fixed". Thanks for the advice, but I still haven't really heard how it's done. Matt

71shooter said:

Thanks for the advice, but I still haven't really heard how it's done. Matt

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Both of the threads I posted give the details,,,
cylinder latch mod or the plunger mod.

IMO, the plunger mod is easiest,
get your self a 3/32 drill bit, for stock,
re-create the plunger,
the added length, .750 to .820, is ALL on the exposed.
In other words your adding length to the create a longer nose, the part that sticks out of the hammer, contacting the cylinder latch leg, thus staying in contact longer.
If it's too long it will bind up and won't cock, shorten a little and re- test.

Thousandths added or removed make a big difference.

Keep in mind here on the internet WE have no idea what your abilities & understanding of the function of single action firearms. What seems easy to one might not make any sense to another.
There are a good bunch of folks that are willing to help out here for all levels of understanding.

Thanks, I missed the link the first time. Great info! Think I'll give it a shot on one my beaters first.

Me thinks that if Ruger had a "proper" spec for when the latch popped-back up on it's various NM SA's, that we'd see the same length of scratch on all of the cylinders within any certain frame size. But alas, we don't. What we see instead is that some of 'em hits here and some of 'em hits there....so...I'm calling BS on Ruger's NM SA's having any sort of "proper timing" spec being adhered to on the assembly line.
What I think instead, is that ever-who designed the NM action did so in a manner calculated to facilitate an assembly process that allowed the gun's action to be sort of "thrown together" and still function. Heck, the hammer on a lot of NIB NM's will fully cock BEFORE the latch hits the cylinder's locking notch.

I'm not saying that anyone here should agree with my stance on the matter....but...I am saying that no one is ever going to convince me that a SA revolver which is that far out of whack has an action that is anything close to being "proper".

Useable, yes......proper, no.

DGW

There is only one true fix for the New Model Blackhawk timing, and that's to get an Old Model that hasn't been converted. Besides that the only improves you can make without really sending it for a total overhaul would be to change out the springs, Wolff has a kit for it. I installed it in my 50th Anniversary .44 Blackhawk. That corrects the trigger and it seemed to help a little with the latch, not sure how but it was a little better.

David LaPell said:

There is only one true fix for the New Model Blackhawk timing, and that's to get an Old Model that hasn't been converted.

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The timing on my unmolested Old Model Blackhawk is substantially identical to the timing on my New Model Blackhawks. I see no difference whatsoever. They both operate as the OP describes.

What we see instead is that some of 'em hits here and some of 'em hits there..

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Of course... That's part of the design as I see it... You don't have to be ultra precise in assembly. Makes perfect sense as the scratch doesn't hurt the functionality at all, yet you can ship out quicker at a lower cost (less time to fine-tune the revolver) as the release can be anywhere from the lead-in to half way between notches. If you want a 'tuned' revolver, then take the 'cheap' revolver to a good gunsmith and have him fine-tune all the parts to your specifications... Of course this will cost you more too .

w5lx said:

David LaPell said:

There is only one true fix for the New Model Blackhawk timing, and that's to get an Old Model that hasn't been converted.

Click to expand...

The timing on my unmolested Old Model Blackhawk is substantially identical to the timing on my New Model Blackhawks. I see no difference whatsoever. They both operate as the OP describes.

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A properly timed Old Model should drop the cylinder catch into the lead of the locking notch. I've yet to see a New Model drop at anywhere near that point. In fact they are designed to not do so.

Faster easier factory assembly, and also, due to the weaker cylinder catch spring, the earlier drop lessens the chance of the cylinder bypassing the catch and failing to lock when cocking fast.