was cleaning my weapon yesterday, I have some peened over spots on the slide. It appears that the slide is hitting the end of the frame. I only shoot factory or my own light reloads. just enough to consistently operate the slide. Any ideas, or do I send it back.
slide damage
- Thread starter buttsm
- Start date
Help Support Ruger Forum:
you can always put one of them fiber 'washers'' on the recoil spring guide, helps absorbs and lessen any metal to metal impact, Wilson used to make them, called Wilson Shok Buffs..........
19ontheslide
Bearcat
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2013
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- 97
buttsm said:
-- How about some pictures of this damage?
edlmann
Blackhawk
19ontheslide
Bearcat
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2013
- Messages
- 97
Still really curious to see the pictures of the damage, OP.
mohavesam
Hawkeye
The argument over whether or not to use shock buffers is personal opinion. Because they come standard on most all $2-3000 1911 pistols, I would not call Bowen or Wilson fools for using and recommending them. The mechanical concept is valid as any metal-to-metal impact will create stress risers over time, which can cause cracking at or near the impact surface. Simple physics. We've seen plenty of cracking on dust covers and frames.
If you have an aluminum frame or shoot bunches of +P level ammo, a shock barrier is a must for those in the know. Cheap and effective. And lots of 1911 shooters don't use 'em, or just don't shoot enough to realize a benefit.
I too, would like to see detailed pics of the damage you see, and identify the type/maker of the gun.
As to "peening" vs. cracking: Have you had your frame inspected with a liquid penetrant method? Any good 'smith has the equipment and it is cheap to do. LPI will show exactly what cracking is present and where the damage is headed.
If you have an aluminum frame or shoot bunches of +P level ammo, a shock barrier is a must for those in the know. Cheap and effective. And lots of 1911 shooters don't use 'em, or just don't shoot enough to realize a benefit.
I too, would like to see detailed pics of the damage you see, and identify the type/maker of the gun.
As to "peening" vs. cracking: Have you had your frame inspected with a liquid penetrant method? Any good 'smith has the equipment and it is cheap to do. LPI will show exactly what cracking is present and where the damage is headed.
1911 buffers are just one of those things.
They come apart and jam guns. We know they come apart and jam guns because it's easy to find people who will tell you they will. What it's a lot harder to do is actually find people who've had them come apart and jam guns.
They're consumables. If you use them too long they will fall apart. Like most things in life.
They come apart and jam guns. We know they come apart and jam guns because it's easy to find people who will tell you they will. What it's a lot harder to do is actually find people who've had them come apart and jam guns.
They're consumables. If you use them too long they will fall apart. Like most things in life.
cas said:1911 buffers are just one of those things.
They come apart and jam guns. We know they come apart and jam guns because it's easy to find people who will tell you they will. What it's a lot harder to do is actually find people who've had them come apart and jam guns.
They're consumables. If you use them too long they will fall apart. Like most things in life.
Once upon a time, I was perty-sure that buffers were akin to snake oil.
More lately though, I decided to see for myself, so I installed one of Wilson's, blue, 1911 buffers onto the reciever-end of my Mini-14's op-rod spring (yeah, it fits great and serves the same purpose it would serve in a 1911).
So far, it's been in there for a bit over 500 rds without causing a single problem.
If/when it breaks, falls apart, melts, catches on fire, or causes a malfunction, I'll start a thread and include all the gory details......but....just going from how it looks today compared to how it looked on day one, that may be a while. :lol: .
DGW
DGW1949 said:cas said:1911 buffers are just one of those things.
They come apart and jam guns. We know they come apart and jam guns because it's easy to find people who will tell you they will. What it's a lot harder to do is actually find people who've had them come apart and jam guns.
They're consumables. If you use them too long they will fall apart. Like most things in life.
Once upon a time, I was perty-sure that buffers were akin to snake oil.
More lately though, I decided to see for myself, so I installed one of Wilson's, blue, 1911 buffers onto the reciever-end of my Mini-14's op-rod spring (yeah, it fits great and serves the same purpose it would serve in a 1911).
So far, it's been in there for a bit over 500 rds without causing a single problem.
If/when it breaks, falls apart, melts, catches on fire, or causes a malfunction, I'll start a thread and include all the gory details......but....just going from how it looks today compared to how it looked on day one, that may be a while. :lol: .
DGW
In your experiment there's no control.
How will you know it wouldn't have looked EXACTLY the same without it ?
REV
Hey Rev,
I need you to help me out here because I aint getting your question.
Or perhaps I should have done a better job at explaining my experiment?....at any rate, allow me to take another stab at it;
Not too long ago, I installed one of them little, blue, Wilson 1911 buffers in my Mini-14.
I did just to see for myself how long the buffer would last before it failed.
After a few firing sessions, I field stripped the gun so's I could inspect the buffer.
Upon inspection, the buffer still looked almost new so I re-installed it.
So far, my rifle has fired a little over 500 Rds of Lake City mil-spec 5.56 ammo (mostly M855) with the buffer in place.
I can't say that the buffer is actualy doing anything good...but...I can say that as of right now, having it in the rifle has not caused a single malfunction, and that the buffer itself still looks to be in servicable condition.
On the other hand, it (meaning the buffer) could fail the next time out, or for that matter, it might even cause the rifle to fail....Who knows?... :lol:.
DGW
I need you to help me out here because I aint getting your question.
Or perhaps I should have done a better job at explaining my experiment?....at any rate, allow me to take another stab at it;
Not too long ago, I installed one of them little, blue, Wilson 1911 buffers in my Mini-14.
I did just to see for myself how long the buffer would last before it failed.
After a few firing sessions, I field stripped the gun so's I could inspect the buffer.
Upon inspection, the buffer still looked almost new so I re-installed it.
So far, my rifle has fired a little over 500 Rds of Lake City mil-spec 5.56 ammo (mostly M855) with the buffer in place.
I can't say that the buffer is actualy doing anything good...but...I can say that as of right now, having it in the rifle has not caused a single malfunction, and that the buffer itself still looks to be in servicable condition.
On the other hand, it (meaning the buffer) could fail the next time out, or for that matter, it might even cause the rifle to fail....Who knows?... :lol:.
DGW
The stress risers are already there.
The crack at the junction of rail and dust cover is neither here nor there. It's self limiting and doesn't travel once the stress is relieved. I've got a pair of dedicated range beaters that cracked there over 15 years and close to 150,000 rounds ago...per gun...and their function hasn't been compromised in any way.
Too much worry over the frame. The slide and barrel assembly is the gun. The frame is essentially the gun mount and a housing for the controls and the magazine. It's the slide that catches all the hell, and a shock buffer doesn't help with that.
dakota1911
Buckeye
- Joined
- Mar 26, 2009
- Messages
- 1,021
The pictures would be interesting and very good if buttsm wants to talk to Ruger about repairing the puppy.
There's absolutely no proof that what you're saying is true.
See! See how easy this is?
I only use them in my 10mm, not in my 45s.
Some of the race gun builders make them out of aluminum. More as a sacrificial than a "buffer". The theory being if any battering takes place, have it happen to something replaceable.
See! See how easy this is?
I only use them in my 10mm, not in my 45s.
Some of the race gun builders make them out of aluminum. More as a sacrificial than a "buffer". The theory being if any battering takes place, have it happen to something replaceable.
I tried to figure out how to post pictures of the damage, I must be computer illiterate still working on it. I sent it back to Ruger they replaced the slide. No reason given for the damage. as an aside if I sent it as dirty as it came back I bet they would have charged me to clean it before repair.
As soon as I can figure out this picture thing I'll post pics of the slide damage
As soon as I can figure out this picture thing I'll post pics of the slide damage
at least I might get the urls here. I hope this works
http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o569/miktri3348/1911slide-2_zps5e7014ab.jpg
http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o569/miktri3348/cf8cc4e3-3be4-4eba-a6f9-48de088173ce_zpsnq60a17k.jpg?1427113100896&1427113101225
http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o569/miktri3348/1911slide-2_zps5e7014ab.jpg
http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o569/miktri3348/cf8cc4e3-3be4-4eba-a6f9-48de088173ce_zpsnq60a17k.jpg?1427113100896&1427113101225
Pat-inCO
Hawkeye
No, no, no, no, no.revhigh said:
They delay your actually replacing the recoil spring,
which fixes the problem properly.
I was appalled/annoyed with one 1911 that came from
the factory with a weak recoil spring. It slung empties
over my right shoulder about twenty five feet. Put in a
new recoil spring and it now works just fine. :wink:
P.S. NOT a Ruger.
