dfletcher
Blackhawk
I know my way around most revolvers very well - Colts old & new, S&W, Dan Wesson and Taurus, etc. Rugers, am OK but not 100%. Have an issue with a newer SP101.
The DA pull had a little hitch in it's transition from the 1st DA stage to the 2nd stage. The lower DA lifter was a tad low so instead of pushing up the hammer smoothly there was a slight hesitation. Found a trigger (trigger only, not the full assembly) on EBay and it dropped in fine. Did a basic function check without the hammer in and everything worked fine. Dropped in the hammer - nice and smooth in DA mode, the way it should be. SA - no problem. However with the hammer in the cylinder bolt doesn't reset. Resets perfect with the hammer out, no go with the hammer in. Has me a bit stumped.
When the gun fails to function the trigger moves back about 1/4". I swing open the cylinder, press down on the top of the cylinder latch (bolt) and it "clicks" back into place. Until then, the front of the "trigger plunger" isn't engaging the cylinder latch (bolt) by riding over and clicking back into place. Again, this happens only when the hammer is installed. With the trigger unit only it functions perfectly.
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/ruger/revolvers-ruger/sp101
All springs are full power. The transfer bar isn't catching on the rear of the firing pin.
Am I correct that the "parrot's beak" of the trigger plunger is fitted to engage the cylinder latch (bolt) and that's the part to be worked on? I'm aware that fitting incorrectly will cause the bolt to not drop before the cylinder starts to rotate.
If the above is accurate, any advice or tips on how to fit the trigger plunger and cylinder bolt? I've ordered two of each from Numrich as a "just in case".
I know I can return the gun to Ruger with original trigger installed however I expect they'll just return it to me as "good enough" since that's how it left the factory. So it's either fix it myself or sell it.
The DA pull had a little hitch in it's transition from the 1st DA stage to the 2nd stage. The lower DA lifter was a tad low so instead of pushing up the hammer smoothly there was a slight hesitation. Found a trigger (trigger only, not the full assembly) on EBay and it dropped in fine. Did a basic function check without the hammer in and everything worked fine. Dropped in the hammer - nice and smooth in DA mode, the way it should be. SA - no problem. However with the hammer in the cylinder bolt doesn't reset. Resets perfect with the hammer out, no go with the hammer in. Has me a bit stumped.
When the gun fails to function the trigger moves back about 1/4". I swing open the cylinder, press down on the top of the cylinder latch (bolt) and it "clicks" back into place. Until then, the front of the "trigger plunger" isn't engaging the cylinder latch (bolt) by riding over and clicking back into place. Again, this happens only when the hammer is installed. With the trigger unit only it functions perfectly.
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/ruger/revolvers-ruger/sp101
All springs are full power. The transfer bar isn't catching on the rear of the firing pin.
Am I correct that the "parrot's beak" of the trigger plunger is fitted to engage the cylinder latch (bolt) and that's the part to be worked on? I'm aware that fitting incorrectly will cause the bolt to not drop before the cylinder starts to rotate.
If the above is accurate, any advice or tips on how to fit the trigger plunger and cylinder bolt? I've ordered two of each from Numrich as a "just in case".
I know I can return the gun to Ruger with original trigger installed however I expect they'll just return it to me as "good enough" since that's how it left the factory. So it's either fix it myself or sell it.