Old Model Single Six problem with light strikes.....

It is a three screw model from early production. I sold it to a friend. He reports it will fire one or maybe two in a cylinder. Others appear to be light strikes. It is original lock work. He did try several different brands of ammunition and all were the same. I asked him to bring it back and thought I might ask the experts here before I get it. I purchased it years ago and had never fired it. Humbug!!
David

Get it back,, check the firing pin. With an empty gun, cock it, then lower the hammer all the way and hold the trigger back & see what the pin protrusion is.
If the pin is good, check the endshake. Excessive endshake can cause this also.

Thanks. I will do that and report back. David

You might try backing the hammer pivot screw off maybe 1/2 to one turn. Sometimes this screw gets over tightened and the frame pinches the hammer.

Bob Wright

push on the back of the firing pin ( with the hammer back, see how much of the firing pin nose protrudes, these are a "rebound" firing pin, pushes against the spring, keeps the pin back till it is struck..........make sure there is lots of back and forth with the pin ,that it is NOT "gunked" in place, also check that the nose of the pin is NOT chipped off ( broken)
and as 'Contender 'said above the head space is critical, not too much "free play ( end shake) whatever one wants to call it......
finally that the cylinders chambers are NOT "fouled" and that the cases drop all the way into the chambers...........22 rimfires are very dirty, foul easily.........
Yes also as noted above that the hammer "drops" ( free fall) does not hang up or drag on the sides of the frame, thus absorbing any 'impact'......... 8) :roll: :wink:

Such great advise. Thanks to all. Dave

Check the mainspring to verify no coils have been cut off "to improve the trigger pull".

It came with 28 coils when new. Less than 25 can cause the problem you have.

I suggest an aggressive cleaning with brake-parts cleaner or the more expensive version: 'Gun Scrubber'; especially in the firing pin hole; but everywhere else too.... and I do mean aggressive. I have owned my Single Six OM for MANY years and have kept it immaculately clean. BUT, after several years just sitting unused in my safe, I took it out and found that the action was completely locked-up..... wouldn't budge. After a short panic, I figured it can't hurt to spray the hell out of it. BINGO.... then I got the grip frame off, and did it again. No more problems.
J

Light strikes is one of several common issues that get worse as the gun ages. First, the firing pin is not faulty, it is the cylinder which is too far from the f.p. due to looseness that develops with wear. SS parts are getting very difficult to find, but even so, individual parts will not bring back a worn out gun. That is why the GP100 was made. I have no idea why there is such a mystique around the SS, given that its design issues cannot clearly be addressed.

Carry_Up

The most common issue of malfunction is crud, not wear, especially in Single Six SAs. The next most common is abuse and/or inexperienced tinkering or parts changing.

.22 LR cartridges are filthy.

But do not wear the cylinders appreciably, the SSs are way too overbuilt for the cartridge. Even in magnums.

Sure the lock work can wear from extended use or abuse in the old models.

As far as the design, currently it's almost bullet proof, vastly improved in 1953 and more so in 1973, of a design in production longer than any other; crowding 15 decades now. Not only will the GP 100 never catch up to it, the popularity of the SS continues to be one of the most popular Ruger models with new versions still being introduced.

Carry_Up said:

Light strikes is one of several common issues that get worse as the gun ages. First, the firing pin is not faulty, it is the cylinder which is too far from the f.p. due to looseness that develops with wear. SS parts are getting very difficult to find, but even so, individual parts will not bring back a worn out gun. That is why the GP100 was made. I have no idea why there is such a mystique around the SS, given that its design issues cannot clearly be addressed.

Carry_Up

Click to expand...

Not sure why you're comparing the single action "Single Six" (most often seen in 22 rimfire) to the larger, double action GP100 which is generally thought of as a .357 Magnum centerfire.

Maybe you're referring to the Security Six?

I finally have the revolver back in my possession. I will answer some of the questions as I check them. The main spring has 28 coils so that is as it came from the factory. S/N is 141999. The cylinder seems to have no appreciable end shake or very minimal. I have turned the hammer pivot screw out 1/2 turn. When I let the hammer drop and hold the trigger back the firing pin protrudes and does not seem to be chipped. I wish I had a method to measure the protrusion. The cylinder is rebated at the rear. I will attempt to take a photo. Comments are welcome. I am about to spray it down with brake cleaner. At some point I will attempt firing it.
i have taken a photo of the cylinder but, since Photobucket cut everyone off I cannot post photos. I can send a photo to anyone who might help. Also when end play occurs is it due to wear on the cylinder or on the frame? Cylinder measures 1.631 with my cheap device.

Well, thanks to all who posted here and helped. I am doing a happy dance. I am not sure what the charm was but between backing off the hammer pivot screw and cleaning with brake cleaner the problem does not exist any longer. I just finished firing two cylinders full of CCI ammo and it functioned perfectly.

Great news Dantforth…..

Just retighten that hammer screw and you're back in business )))

J

Johnnu2 said:

Great news Dantforth…..

Just retighten that hammer screw and you're back in business )))

J

Click to expand...

Ummmm..............That was his problem in the first place, the hammer pivot screw had been tightened down too much, the frame was binding.


Bob Wright

I will not be re-tightening the hammer pivot screw. It is functioning perfectly now. Owner has it back. Thanks to all.

That was gonna be my next suggestion..........
J.

contender said:

Get it back,, check the firing pin. With an empty gun, cock it, then lower the hammer all the way and hold the trigger back & see what the pin protrusion is.
If the pin is good, check the endshake. Excessive endshake can cause this also.

Click to expand...

This is a good start but, the firing pin must protrude about ..040" from the frame to correctly ingage the primer area of the shell, also.
Steve

steve8261948 said:

contender said:

Get it back,, check the firing pin. With an empty gun, cock it, then lower the hammer all the way and hold the trigger back & see what the pin protrusion is.
If the pin is good, check the endshake. Excessive endshake can cause this also.

Click to expand...

This is a good start but, the firing pin must protrude about ..040" from the frame to correctly ingage the primer area of the shell, also.
Steve

Click to expand...

Y'all keep referring to the firing pin, when it was not the firing pin that was the problem but rather "light strikes" from the hammer blow being impeded. Three Screw Rugers will display that problem when the hammer screw is tightened too tight, it makes the hammer fall "sluggish." I've seen too many cases where over tightening was the culprit, especially on Single Sixes of the period.

And New Models use a pin instead of a screw.

Bob Wright

P.S. With a Three Screw, you don't have to hold the trigger back.

Two procedures to fix problem done at the same time equals not knowing which one was the cure.
How about tightening that screw so I can have a tranquil snooze.

Bill