To Lighten a Ruger 1
- Thread starter pwillie
- Start date
gewehrfreund
Buckeye
About the only place on a #1 to remove any meaningful weight is in the barrel. The 1A is about as light as it gets unless you want to go to a Bell and Carson or Fiberglass (maker's name escapes me at the moment) stock, but no #1 deserves this. Might as well get a ULA bolt action.
Oh, and welcome to the forum.
LC
Oh, and welcome to the forum.
LC
RJ556
Buckeye
Or if you still want a great looking, classy single shot rifle, fork out four large and get a Blaser K95.
RJ556
Buckeye
I looked at the Dakota, then bought the Blaser. I am glad I did. The Blaser is lighter, more accurate and better looking. :lol:
chapped lips
Single-Sixer
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2010
- Messages
- 111
".......Fiberglass (maker's name escapes me at the moment) stock......@
are you thinking of MPI?
"........but no #1 deserves this......."
i agree.
are you thinking of MPI?
"........but no #1 deserves this......."
i agree.
mike-c
Single-Sixer
Try the Thompson Center Encore with a synthetic stock. They are light weight and accurate. I have several in 223 and 45-70. In fact I added weight to the 45-70 because it was too light.
About how much weight is saved with a fluted barrel? Also,I like the Merkel over the Blaser(both are breakdown rifles) I do like the New R8 Blaser in a bolt.As far as an Encore,I am sure they are great guns(have friend that has one)Just not my cup....mike-c said:
gewehrfreund
Buckeye
chapped lips said:
MPI, that's it. Thanks cl.
coyote
Single-Sixer
yep, MPI in portland oregon makes some incredibly light stocks, including the #1
http://www.mpistocks.com/halflever.html
and adding a 'glass stock to a laminated/stainless #1 really isn't the same as ruining the classic look of blue steel and walnut.
http://www.mpistocks.com/halflever.html
and adding a 'glass stock to a laminated/stainless #1 really isn't the same as ruining the classic look of blue steel and walnut.
roofinspector
Single-Sixer
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2009
- Messages
- 282
I think perhaps to lighten a No.1: the barrel taper/length/type(carbon fiber wrap), remove the quarter rib(two piece mounts or irons only), synthetic buttstock and forearm as possibilites to consider.
Aluminum in the rings/mounts makes some difference.
I have my doubts about drilling the buttstock really paying off. The type of forearm in wood has some weight advantage, ie going from standard beavertail to AH.
There has been some that removed the hanger, but quite a bit of work to do so.
By far the easiest is the barrel approach in my limited view. One could calculate roughly how much the payoff would be. Various barrel makers have taper/length/weight software for the surfers.
One might remember balance in the firearm. Putting on a #1 taper or featherweight barrel with AH forend, causes the rifle to be heavy in back with factory wood.
Aluminum in the rings/mounts makes some difference.
I have my doubts about drilling the buttstock really paying off. The type of forearm in wood has some weight advantage, ie going from standard beavertail to AH.
There has been some that removed the hanger, but quite a bit of work to do so.
By far the easiest is the barrel approach in my limited view. One could calculate roughly how much the payoff would be. Various barrel makers have taper/length/weight software for the surfers.
One might remember balance in the firearm. Putting on a #1 taper or featherweight barrel with AH forend, causes the rifle to be heavy in back with factory wood.
picketpin
Buckeye
I can't imagine that there is anythoing you can do to get it MUCH lighter than an "AH" configuration. That's a 22" LIGHT weight barrel with no sights. Start with an "AB" and remove and replace the Semi Beaver tail forearm with the Alex Henry add the barrel band. After that your talking ounces to remove not pounds. You could go ahead and drill out some wood from the butt stock on either side of the existing hole for stock attachment and lose some weight and restore the balance back to about balanced on the reciever.
After that anything you do really is just ounces. Only you can decide if it's worth the time, trouble and money. How light, what caliber? What about recoil??
I have a "AH" in 257 AI complete with a 22' fluted barrel in factory "A" length and profile. Scoped with a Leupold 2x7 in Conetrol base and rings it weighs 6.6 pounds, loaded with a Bianchi leather Cobra sling and the ammo pouch in the sling with 3 rounds in it. It has a Bishop butt stock with a cheek pad and a Decelorator and has a factory barrel band for the sling attachment. You could lose a few ounces by removeing the cheek piece, putting on a flat plastic butt plate or even simply checkewring the wood. Gee the Speed hammer weighs 400 grams less than the factory one....................... How llight do you need??
Ross
After that anything you do really is just ounces. Only you can decide if it's worth the time, trouble and money. How light, what caliber? What about recoil??
I have a "AH" in 257 AI complete with a 22' fluted barrel in factory "A" length and profile. Scoped with a Leupold 2x7 in Conetrol base and rings it weighs 6.6 pounds, loaded with a Bianchi leather Cobra sling and the ammo pouch in the sling with 3 rounds in it. It has a Bishop butt stock with a cheek pad and a Decelorator and has a factory barrel band for the sling attachment. You could lose a few ounces by removeing the cheek piece, putting on a flat plastic butt plate or even simply checkewring the wood. Gee the Speed hammer weighs 400 grams less than the factory one....................... How llight do you need??
Ross
wunbe
Buckeye
I have a custom #1 nearing completion that has a 20" fluted barrel; synthetic stock and custom rings in place of the rib. The barrel is a #4 -- so it is not a flmsy 1A type barrel. The smith raves abotu its weight and handling characteritics but I have not actually held it yet.
One other way to limit weight a bit is to have the stock made with a cheek piece and a straight, 'english shotgun, style profile insteasd of the standard slab from Ruger. It looks great too. (I have two custom #3s in that profile.) You lose some wood that way and the whole package is less 'clunky. Of course you would not want to do it on a heavy kicker.
Good luck,
wunbe
One other way to limit weight a bit is to have the stock made with a cheek piece and a straight, 'english shotgun, style profile insteasd of the standard slab from Ruger. It looks great too. (I have two custom #3s in that profile.) You lose some wood that way and the whole package is less 'clunky. Of course you would not want to do it on a heavy kicker.
Good luck,
wunbe
