SR556 flash hider removal

[amickmh]

Does anyone know if the flash hider can be removed on the SR556? It doesn't have the flat spots for a wrench like others do. Better to ask first before I start twisting on stuff.

 

[9x19]

Unless it was built for a state that requires it to be permanently attached, it should come off. I use a piece of scrap steel rod, and just slip it between the "spokes" and turn it like a T-handle.

 

[instructor]

Other than what was mentioned above, seems like I read that one version of the SR556 has a permanent mtd. flash hider as opposed to other model and therefore no wrench flat for removal?? Usually such FH's are silver soldered and pinned to prevent removal meeting ATF's description of permanent. Somewhat confusing but believe some of the earliest ones did not have the flat you are mentioning?? Mine is some couple years old and does have the flats.

 

[amickmh]

Thanks guys. And yes, mine is one of the early ones from 2009/2010. But is was the standard model that shipped with 3, 30rnd mags and the stock is adjustable. It sounds like you were talking about the California compliant model that didn't have these extra features. The Troy upper was basically made so you can't take it apart. And that has me thinking about what you said with the hider being soldered on. However, I don't see a pin holding it in place. If I ever feel up to doing this, I'll take it to a gun smith. I'd like to try 9X19's idea, but now I'm too scared I'd damage something.

 

[9x19]

Thanks guys. And yes, mine is one of the early ones from 2009/2010.

I sold mine because I just prefer the balance of the DI guns, but it was a first year gun as well and did not have wrench-flats on the FH (came off with no issues):

 

[bwraven]

A Torx T60 bit works perfectly with the Ruger factory flash hiders.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-t60-...p-00934491000P?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4

 

[rugerjunkie]

Why not try wrapping a peice of leather around it so you dont mar the finish and give it a try?

 

[instructor]

As for the pin not being seen, often they are inserted, ground to flush fit and they are hard to detect. I understand that just silver soldering alone is not sufficient to meet the ATF standards for "fixed" and hence the pin/mechanical application. When they say "fixed" that is just what they mean, no way, no how to remove.

 

[amickmh]

Why not try wrapping a peice of leather around it so you dont mar the finish and give it a try?

A leather strap wrench sounds like a good idea. I'll keep an eye out for something like that when I'm at the hardware store next time. I like the Torx bit idea too. My largest bit is T55, so that will be one my shopping list as well. I can clearly see how the bit fits the cage perfectly. If I use a Torx bit, I wonder if it would be a good idea to get a T58 or T59 (if they make them) and wedge a piece of cloth between the hider and the bit to minimize metal to metal contact?

 

[SteelShooter]

Ditto on the T60 Torx driver, it's the way to go.

 

[dfletcher]

Does anyone know if the flash hider can be removed on the SR556? It doesn't have the flat spots for a wrench like others do. Better to ask first before I start twisting on stuff.

As mentioned a Torx 60 works best, especially if you want to avoid marring the finish - just drop it down the front and turn. I wouldn't worry about marring the inside. If you're going to toss the thing pretty much anything that will hang onto the birdcage slats will work. The Ruger 5.56 uses standard AR 15 1/2" X 28 TPI threading.

It would be best to hold the upper in a vise while doing this, be certain to anchor on the barrel and not the receiver or railed forend.

 

[dingode]

I have the 556CLA. The flash hider on mine is actually a machined part of the barrel (a.k.a. non-removable). Be careful and make sure yours is removable before you twist too much.