SFAR help needed

[Marshal Dillon]

I have been shooting Ruger rifles for more years than I care to remember. From Number 1's to the old 44 Mag carbine and all have preformed flawlessly right out of the box. I also shoot AR 15s in various calibers, so I am familiar with the AR style rifles.
Now the problem, my new SFAR bolt and bolt release tab are extremely tight and the Terminator would have trouble working the each of them. The SFAR has had about 40 rounds run thru it.
I am seeking advice on how to loosen bolt and release tab making it easier for me to work them.

 

[Mobuck]

LUBRICATION
Hope that didn't come off too snippy. Need more info before offering specific advice. General advice follows but since you are familiar with the AR platform this shouldn't be new.
Bolt catch (release) is a simple pivot with a plunger and spring pushing it down and the follower of an empty magazine pushing it up. If either the pivot or the plunger is dragging, that will cause difficult movement of the bolt catch. Releasing the bolt isn't meant to be a dainty touch but a slap with the heel of the support hand.
"how to loosen bolt"-- Several places within the bolt carrier and buffer that can cause difficult movement.
Start with the bolt: remove the bolt from the carrier and look for gouging or scoring. Using some sort of thin oily stuff, lube the gas rings (if present-some piston op guns don't use gas rings), grease the cam pin and track in the bolt carrier.
Put a dab of grease on the charging handle and make sure it slides freely within the upper receiver.
Make certain the buffer and spring move freely in the buffer tube but those parts don't need lubing.

 

[Enigma]

The SFAR certainly seems to be mentioned as 'in need of fixing' a lot. Or is it just me?

 

[Mobuck]

^^^no arguments from me^^^
I haven't taken the bait and bought one since I have plenty of other options. Sort of seems to be iffy.

 

[Marshal Dillon]

LUBRICATION
Hope that didn't come off too snippy. Need more info before offering specific advice. General advice follows but since you are familiar with the AR platform this shouldn't be new.
Bolt catch (release) is a simple pivot with a plunger and spring pushing it down and the follower of an empty magazine pushing it up. If either the pivot or the plunger is dragging, that will cause difficult movement of the bolt catch.

Thanks. Not snippy at all. The SFAR is brand new and has been tight since the first day. I have lubed the bolt, to the point of fearing I have put to much oil on it. My other ARs just a touch of oil and they are easy to operate. I have not used "grease" but gun oil has been liberally applied. Thanks again. I will clean and lube again, using your suggestion.

 

[Mobuck]

When starting up an AR, I like to oil them till they smoke for the first 5-10 shots. As long as you don't leave excess oil in chamber or bore, you really can't over lube a new AR. Cam pin is a high stress part and grease helps it find it's happy place rather than galling. Unless I'm using an AR below zero degrees, I lube them profusely.

 

[The.Tumbleweed]

I have been shooting Ruger rifles for more years than I care to remember. From Number 1's to the old 44 Mag carbine and all have preformed flawlessly right out of the box. I also shoot AR 15s in various calibers, so I am familiar with the AR style rifles.
Now the problem, my new SFAR bolt and bolt release tab are extremely tight and the Terminator would have trouble working the each of them. The SFAR has had about 40 rounds run thru it.
I am seeking advice on how to loosen bolt and release tab making it easier for me to work them.

I'm going to suggest replacing the charge handle with a Radian Raptor. The original bit my fingers one too many times.
I'm also going to suggest removing the BCG, and completely cleaning it, inside and out, and a good cleaning of the rest of the rifle, from muzzle to buffer.
Lube everything up well, and see if that improves anything.
When I was having issues, I cleaned everything, including removing the BCG disassembly, and a good soaking in carburetor cleaner, and lubing everything well (I used Tri-Flo, you choose an oil of your liking).
After all of that, and about 300 rounds, I'm having no issues with the rifle.

I won't go into the issues I had with ammunition, but you'll probably be fine.

 

[Marshal Dillon]

I went back and lubed the SFAR with Rusty Duck lube. I have used it on my duck hunting shotguns for years. The bolts on my duck guns never bind or seem hard to work. After the "lubing" recommendations my SFAR seems easier to operate. Hopefully I'll be able to put some rounds down range today to confirm the function.
Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[jreffner]

FYI: I have the 6.5 Creedmoor version. I replaced the charging handle with a Radian Raptor and my bolt release is very stiff as well (as it was with the Ruger handle). I've put 76 rounds through mine. I can tell you that it loosens up a great deal when there is ammo in the mag. After the 76 rounds it went back to being stiff, but not as stiff. I'm guessing it will get better and loosen up over time. It however is simply going to be stiffer than other rifles. It functions perfectly though.

 

[Mike 8939]

I NEED HELP I bought a sfar with 16 "barrel did not notice the picatinny rail was not full length like the 20" I am using a clipon thermal that mounts on the pic.. rail and there is not enough space on the 16 to do so and ruger will NOT sell me one that came on the 20" because the 16 " did not come with it
Does anyone know of a handguard I can buy that I don't have to change the barrel nut which ruger says is a modification and voids warranty
I CAN'T BELIEVE I HAVE HAD SO MUCH TROUBLE TRYING TO BUY SOMETHING FROM RUGER
I have bought multiple firearms from Ruger to include some from there custom shop THIS WILL BE MY LAST

 

[Mobuck]

If the Ruger OEM handguard is a proprietary design and/or uses a proprietary barrel nut, you may be out luck finding a different handguard. Maybe some trial and error fitting of available rail extensions will get you where you want to go.

 

[Mike 8939]

Has anyone replaced the handguard on there 20"sfar if so does anyone want to sell the old one I need a full length pic rail not the one that comes on the 16 inch if no one does just going to buy a thermal scope instead of a clipon thermal

 

[Mobuck]

There are numerous 'extended' rails available. YHM makes some that are higher quality(and more stabile than the Chinesium offerings). Depending on how mechanical you are, a picatinny rail could be added to your handguard using something like JB Weld or screw/bolt type fasteners. The main requirement is the rail ends up being generally same height and parallel with the upper receiver?