search fail, Buying used revolver help

[roylt]

Hi Guys and Gals,
I thought I read some place about things to look at when shopping used revolvers but I can't find it again.

I think this should be stickied if it is on here.

Looking at a used GP100, 4". What is end shake and all those other things that go over my head mean?

What should I look at? There really isn't a gunsmith around where I live as far as I know anyway.

I can pull the trigger and see that the cyl moves etc but there has to be a lot more to this than that.

Let me know you thoughts and post links as they apply.

Thanks,

 

[Yosemite Sam]

Here you go: http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57816

Not from our esteemed forum, but authored by one of our members.

-- Sam

 

[rugerguy]

all those 'technical terms' are for those that KNOW how to measure and discern, what they are actually 'seeing"........only concern your self with what is 'obvious',nicks, scratches, broken parts, worn finish, and any other "obvious fault or flaw"....headspece and endshake, I seldom ever look for or at that, LOOSE is LOOSE, excessive "slop" is exactly that and will jump out at you...the gun should open, it should close, it should rotate, and lockup up 'fairly tight"....a gun that LOOKS "new" should be like that; one that has NO finish, is banged up, NO finish, you have to LOOK more careful, and be concerned, then one has to "add in" what any flaws may cost to repair, and the average person, has NO clue what this may be,it takes the "experts" and those with the experience and knowledge of years of doing this to "see" just what is what , and YES, even THEY can and will be fooled..................thats why a gun shop or even the factory,,will ONLY quote a repair price, AFTER they do an inspection, and even then, not know till they get "inside" at times........
tough to judge stuff like that on a "forum" or even over the phone, one has to "see, feel, touch, inspect" to make any sort of evaluation, then if need be "do" the measurements, check the gauges, know what to do...........
I know many folks who can 'recite" all the data ,specs of a car engine, and cannot change a spark plug..........................same for firearms.

 

[Yosemite Sam]

BTW, I've used Jim's advice for years (thanks, Jim!) and it always gets the dealer interested when you pull out the lights and feeler gauges. It goes right from "maybe this guy is a sucker who'll buy anything" to, "So, you know a lot about revolvers, do you?" I've had people take notes of what I was doing when inspecting a gun at a show. To one dealer in town I'm "that Ruger guy".

-- Sam

 

[threescrewheekma]

There's very little indeed I can add to a post like Jim's. About the only thing I didn't see mentioned was checking to make sure the cylinder is locked just before or right at full hammer cock--if you very slowly, and with even pressure cock the hammer and you hear and see the cylinder lock just before or just as the hammer reaches full-cock, that's a good thing. If you pull the hammer back very slowly and the hammer reaches full-cock but the cylinder still has just a bit more rotation to go before being locked, that's not so good.

However, in actual practice, I can't think of any reason a person would cock a revolver that way, and usually a firm cocking of the hammer will cause the cylinder to rotate into locking anyway, but it's just one more thing to check.

Best,

Threescrewheekma

 

[roylt]

Thanks guys.

No good shops in town so I buy online. Sucks a bit but this GP has a 30 day (feel free to fire etc) return policy. Less shipping which could be 50 bucks or so.

The cylinder just seems different to me. I'll have a couple other guys look it over that have more years under their belt.

 

[rugerguy]

I see that the "link":" was posted while I was answering, and Jim does a very thorough coverage , and in GOOD 'detail', nice job......tough to do in most instances and again, makes one wonder "just what am I seeing???
I disagree with his .002 gap, that's a bit too close,especially for a defense (carry) or any combat gun, but a plinker ,target gun, OK......
The other thing is you spend that much time at any given table at a show, and a guy is trying to sell some "collectible" pieces, that will NOT go over very well at all...I know, if you cannot check it out, then "pass on it", I would.. it doesn't take long, it takes 'experience' and KNOWING what you are looking AT and for.............

 

[JimMarch1]

I'm working on a "ten year anniversary" revision . Seriously, I've learned a lot since.

I also plan to do chapters for specific gun types, models or makes. For example, the Ruger SA section will cover transfer bar pinch (with a nod to Flatgate!), evidence of base pin jumping, etc.

On the tight gap, I'm inclined to agree that .002" is a bit much, although in a 38snubby or 357 snub that will see 38 defense ammo I think a case can be made for preferring a tight gap. I'll be going into more detail there.

 

[rugerguy]

Bottom line, GOOD job, tough to put it all in print (type) and make it understandable to the "average" guy....go for it, and THANK YOU! :wink: