Ruger p345 problems

[aa214]

I recently purchased a lightly used Ruger p345 at the gunshow I took it to the range and shot 200 rd's with no jams except for 2 that failed to go into battery on the last rd in the mag but my issue is the accuracy it was all over the place with out explanation even when i was holding dead center and firing very slowly it would hit everywhere except the point of aim. My second issue is when I got home and cleaned it put it back together I noticed when I racked the slide back it would push the trigger bar down and after I let the slide down it would not come back up,but when I started pulling the trigger to dry fire the trigger bar would pop back up in place making a noticeable click sound it didnt do this before it seems like the trigger bar is out of place is this normal for this gun to do this??? Thanks for helping

 

[roylt]

Not sure about accuracy, maybe have some other guys shoot it to see how it runs for them.

The trigger bar issue I think is really not an issue. I have a couple P-guns that do this from time to time. The force of firing a real round will probably make the trigger bar position itself as needed.

Welcome here too.

 

[aa214]

Thanks for the reply when i took it apart I noticed that the recoil spring got stuck in the front of the slide I field stripped it at the range and then at home when i was cleaning it and both times it was stuck in there I had to carefully pry it out with a flathead screw driver and it was in with the large side towards the muzzle both times and for some reason the recoil buffer spring no longer slipped over the rod but could replacing the recoil spring help with accuracy Ive been thinking about trying out a wolff spring but should I get the 15lb spring or 17lb? Also the trigger bar issue doesn't happen when I rack a snap cap into the chamber but if I pull the slide back to check the chamber the trigger bar goes down like its not under spring tension but when I tap the trigger or pull back on the hammer slightly the trigger bar then pops back up under spring tension any other opinions on this?? Thanks

 

[roylt]

I tinker with the 9mm and 40 cal units more so this may be off but here goes. The recoil spring should be "stuck" at the muzzle side and the small end of the spring should hold the back of the guide rod. I doubt if a new spring will help accuracy because it is how the gun locks up that matters. Now on the 345 unit there is a weight on the guide rod right? Maybe the guide rod needs replaced as a unit. I would call Ruger and ask for advise. They will most likely just say to send it in and not voice an opinion over the phone but it is worth a shot.

As for the trigger bar. I think the slide pushes this down as part of the general function so if you move the slide I could see the trigger bar moving down. I would clean and lube all the pivot points etc for the trigger bar and see if that helps. On some of my pistols the trigger bar and the frame are very close as well as the ejector. Make sure there is no weirdness there for lack of a better term. You may have bent something slightly. Compare to your manual. there are drawings in the back that show all the parts exploded out.

Good luck and report back.

 

[brushunter]

I own a P-345 ... wish I cud help. Mine is a gem , one of the most accurate pistols I own ... and reliable. I do know or rather have heard there is an issue of dry firing the P-345 with out the magizine ... that is a no-no . I believe that is also spelled out in the manual. If that has occured perhaps somethings bent or out of wack ? Hopefully someone else will elaberate on this ... Sorry Cudn't be of much help ..

regards , brushunter

 

[Flash]

The 345 isn't supposed to be dry fired........at all.

 

[pyth0n]

From the P345D & P345 manual safety model owners manual page 17.
DRY FIRING
Going through the actions of cocking, aiming and pulling the trigger on an
unloaded gun is known as “dry firing.” It can be useful to learn the “feel” of your
pistol. Be certain that the pistol is fully unloaded (both the chamber and magazine
are empty) and that the pistol is pointing in a safe direction even when you are
practicing dry firing. The RUGER® P345® pistols can be dry-fired without
damage to the firing pin or other components as long as the magazine is inserted.
CAUTION: Dry firing your RUGER® P345® with the magazine removed may
result in damage or unnecessary wear to the firing pin blocking mechanism.

 

[Sin6Sec63451022]

Just my experience: I couldn't hit a barn while standing inside it. Gave the gun to several others to try and they all said it was very accurate, I was just a lousy shot. Okay, I'll deal with that. I traded it off as I was never able to shoot it even halfway well. That and the dry fire hassles finally got to be more than i wanted to deal with, so it went away. ( it was stainless). Traded it for a 22/45 (stainless) and it had a barrel defect. Traded it off to a guy who had to have it (full disclosure). Now have a blued 22/45 with the replaceable grip panels. Finally have a shooter and a keeper. My 10/22 (stainless) shot like the P345, so i put a blued barrel on it and it's good to go. I've sworn off Ruger stainless guns. I know most people are happy with them. As said, just my experience. YMMV.

 

[modrifle3]

I had two....both were not nearly the gun the p90 and p97 are. The bad trigger makes it hard to be accurate as it almost hits the frame before breaking. Ruger should have made two triggers, long and short pull. Issue is with large handed shooters.

 

[pyth0n]

I have two and have used them in informal IDPA shoots. No issues with function or accuracy.

 

[modrifle3]

Finish on the early model was nice but barrel fit was way loose. Second gun was just terrible. A lemon from day one. By the way the trigger bar issue is normal for the 345, but the recoil sets it during fire.