Ruger #1 rib problem

JMtoolman

Bearcat
Joined
Nov 8, 2014
Messages
19
I just got a Ruger #1 in 22-250 that has seen better days. I noticed something does not seem right on the rib mounted on the barrel. There is a slight bend in the rib just before the transition to the larger diameter of the chamber. It looks like some one had a rib that did not quite line up and bent the rib to make it contact with the chamber area. My question is are there more than one style of the ribs for different sizes of Ruger barrels? Can I just get a new rib for this barrel? It also is quite a bit higher than the receiver diameter where they meet. It appears to be about a 1/16 of an inch high. If I have to get a new rib is there someone who might have the new rib, or can I get one from Ruger direct? Thanks in advance, the toolman.
 
welcome to the forum and congrates on the #1 (even if it was rode hard)

Hope fully some one that KNOWs the few barrel profiles will give you exact answer. In the meantime you could look on "Gun Parts" and see the several they show

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/ruger/rifles-ruger/no-1-series?page=4
Item 48
 
There are several different heights depending on barrel profile. They all are higher where they meet the receiver. Depends on how old your rifle is if you can buy a new one,The locating pins have changed on newer rifles and I dont believe you can get the old style ramp,not sure on that. There are used ones floating around though if you look.
 
rowdy1972 said:
There are several different heights depending on barrel profile.


Also, the underside of the various ribs will differ, depending on barrel profile. (BT, DT - NTS)


.
 
I have taken the rib off and there is a B stamped on the underside. I am going to see if I can straighten out the bends, there are actually two of them, and if necessary recut what is necessary off the undersides to make it mate up to the barrel. The toolman.
 
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The "B" kinda indicates that the rib was intended for the factory Ruger No.1B sporter barrel, about 1.2" at the receiver, 26" long, and about 0.640"-ish at the muzzle. Probably had a beavertail forend as well.

Getting the rib off can be a fun deal, congrats on getting it off. New screws are available from Brownell's as is the rib, search "Ruger quarter rib" on their site.

I suspect that the rib probably bowed up about 1/2" when the two screws on either end were released, and recoil pins removed. Even the new ribs that I have gotten, have a bow to them. Your description of two bends is a bit puzzling, but one sees everything nowadays.

The ribs seem to have some hardening to them, look like cast when they break. I tried to remove the bow(big time) on one particular rib cold, and it busted thru a screw hole. I have not tried heat on one that was badly warped to relieve stress, so far have gotten away with a cold bend except............for the one that was way out. It now resides as is on my primary 22LR No.1.

If you got the rib off intact, I have no doubt you have the machinery to touch it up on the bottom if needbe. sometimes a 50 dollar part is easier than all the work..........but that never stopped us before right?...........kinda the spirit of the thing.

Brownell's usually keeps some new Ruger quarter ribs in stock, but they do come and go there. I have never tried Ruger or other places, Brownell's shipped me new ribs in a couple of days, so I was ok with that.

On the 22/250, one could argue the real need for the two recoil studs. On some of my builds, I only use the studs in the rib and not the barrel only for appearance; thinking 4 of the 8-36(?) are enough. To each their own there and their environment and tastes.
 
If you machine the rib to fit the barrel. You might want to think about setting it at an angle so to keep you scope adjustment centered
 
Those ribs can be problematic. I had an earlier 22-250 1B that shot a good 2 1/2 feet to the right. I sanded down imperfections in the fore end and relieved the fore end where it contacted the receiver with no effect. I next shimmed the scope (a lot) and finally got it to print on the target, but it didn't group well. I got a new rib and then I found it had no holes for the barrel pins. I took the old rib off and it was a struggle; it was bound up tight. I took a good hour to get it off the barrel. When I got it off I could see that the alignment pin hole (the one between the mounting screws) was drilled way off center. I thought I would drill it larger to clear the pin, but the rib had been hardened. I finally opened up the hole with a Dremel tool and a small grinding stone. I was amazed someone at Ruger ever got the rib mounted. The scope can now be aligned with the barrel (no shimming necessary) and it went from 2-inch groups to 1/2-inch groups. The rifle was in very good condition because I think it had not been shot very much; its previous owners probably saw that it would not allow enough scope adjustment to get the thing on target and just relegated it to a safe queen.

The bottom line? Those ribs can cause problems.

If the rib has been bent, I would toss it and get a new one. Because they are super hard (at least mine was), drilling a new hole may be difficult. My recommendation is to only use the mounting screws (the locating pin is unnecessary), and make sure the rib is easy to install and remove; if it is not, it may be misaligned and that hurt my accuracy until I located and corrected the problem.

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That's a nice early (non-prefix or very early 130-prefix) rifle!

Another area that can cause problems is the back edge of the rib contacting the front of the receiver. There should be a very small (but visible) gap between the two for best accuracy.

I truly prefer the non-prefix guns as a half-fast collector, but I once owned a very rare and lovely 2-digit non-prefix (with box!) AHS 308 Win. that also had a very noticeable cant in the rib. It bothered me enough back then, that I eventually sold the rifle for what was a lot of money for it at the time, but I have bitterly regretted it ever since.
 
Well I was able to straighten out the rib using an arbor press and wood blocks. I must say they are very tough! Took many a lot of times because they spring back a lot! Finely got the two bends out and used a ground piece of steel to check the straightness. I then had to cut a bit off the underside of the front of the rib in a taper, the rear was hitting the barrel and leaving the front about .010 high. Just set it up in the milling machine and used a ball end mill to cut the taper by eye. Mounted right back on the barrel OK. I really can't figure out how the rib was bent in the first place! It took a lot of effort with an arbor press to get it to straighten out! I will make a couple plugs for the holes before putting the scope rings on. The next work on it will require resanding the rubber butt plate. Some one replaced the original one with a black one, in doing so they managed to gouge the wood fairly good in front of the pad. So a refinish of the buttstock is going to be a necessity to make it look right. I guess that is why I got it for a good price. The toolman.
 
I received a No1 RSI 257 that came new from a supplier and the rib has a twist in it that we didn't notice and customer brought back because scope would not mount in rings. ruger sent a new one and bolted up like new!
 
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