Ruger #1 Accuracy

[drt213]

I have wanted a 25-06 for a long time and have decided it's time to act. I have always liked the looks of the #1 for its classic design and I'm looking at possibly getting one in 25-06. I've done a little online searching as to accuracy and I'm a little concerned about what I've read. I've read that the red pad rifles aren't as accurate as the black pad ones. The barrels on red padded ones were made by a different maker that those on the black pads.

I'm looking for input from some of you that have 1st hand experience with their accuracy overall and advice as to what to look for in getting a good shooting one. I tend to like varmint barrels.

Thanks.

 

[Greg Mercurio]

I have a dozen plus a few No. 1's. from .22-250 up to .458 WM. the small to medium bores all shoot to MOA with a bit of work at the reloading bench. The bigger bores, above .375, shoot just fine at the ranges they were designed for. My .257 Roberts shoots well under MOA. What defines accurate for you?

 

[picketpin]

Look at the annual "SHOOT" on the #1 Yahoo Group. That'll give you a good idea what a #1 CAN do.

As far as a 25-06 set up as a hunting rifle. I would expect it to shoot at or near MOA with some work and load selection. All but one of my HUNTING #1s 243-338 shoot right around MOA. Frankly I don't work really hard after that.

As far as pure accuracy with the PPCs, etc you can get some very decent accuracy. These are the results of last years shoot. two 5 shot groups at 100 yards
.224 or under .536 with 9Xs 22PPC
6mm-.308 .510 6PPC
.308-.400 .495 30BR
.400+ 1.75 45-70

The smallest groups shot in the #1 Group Shoot since 2005 was .391 in 2011 with a 6mm PPC.

I hear lots of guys talking sub 1/2" but they seldom submit two five shot targets for scoring. ;-)

The VERY best I have ever done is .315 for a % shot group at 100 yards with a custom/slightly modified 257 Roberts "V"

As far as the barrels. That will NOT usually be the issue. The non prefix 1967and early prefix gun up to about 130-05000 had Douglas Match Grade barrels, most shoot just fine in terms of hunting accuracy.

They changed to Wilson in mid 1973 or so. There were a few issues with SOME Wilson barrels early on as production increased. Mostly that as issues around very long troats in some calibers. Some of te most accurate #1s I own have Wilson Barrels.

They went to in house Ruger hammer forged barrels in 1991. They seem to be uniformly good barrels.

The Ruger #1 is a great single shot hunting rifle. It is NOT however a target rifle. The BEST #1s will out shoot most bolt guns when properly tuned and reloaded. The BEST bolt gun will always outshoot a #1.

I buy #1s by cartridge/configuration/wood/generation. I've spent a LOT of money on custom barrels over the years. My most accurate to date wears a factory Ruger barrel. ;-).

Ross

 

[OIF2]

Bought this one (.25-06 1AH) awhile back from El Numero Uno. It wears a Leupold 6X in Ruger rings. Nothing has been done to it, except having the trigger cleaned up and lightened. It groups into one ragged hole (3 shots) with Hornady 117 gr SSTs. After 4-5 shots, unless the barrel cools for a few minutes, the group will open up. I doubt seriously that I'll shoot more than 3 shots at an animal with a single-shot rifle, though.
Bob

 

[Corbi]

I have 5 #1 rifles in various chamberings. I am pleased with the accuracy from all of them.

The 1B in 3006 is the easiest to shoot accurately. I would grab the 25/06 you want. My bet is, at most you will need to work up loads for it to shoot well.

Corbi

 

[wunbe]

drt213,

There are two issues to consider in NIB Ruger #1 accuracy -- grouping and consistent POI.

A tight group is just the beginning. Many -- indeed most #1s will shoot decent groups out of the box. Some however will not shoot tight enough groups and in those cases buggered wood/barrel contact -- even in NIB items -- is often the problem. I have had out of the factory #1s with foreends that touch on one side of the barrel but not the other and they gave squirrely "patterns" until some careful sanding of the high side. Some did not flourish until freefloated.

Please note that the guys above having excellent experiences with their #1s mostly live in hot dry clmates. They do not need to cope with the wide swings in humidity we have here. Those changes swell and shrink wood stocks that are not properly sealed and Ruger does not do that at the factory. Such wood changes due to climate shifts are not much of an issue in hot dry areas so holding POI over time is rarely a problem and gets little or no mention.

In my expereinces here in VA, my #1 results vary in that even small shifts in wood/metal contacts will move POI around from week to week and day to day. Sometimes they even wreck the grouping all together. Punching paper is not the problem -- just adjust the scope to move the group back where you want it. But hunting at distance can get problematic as you cannot rezero your rifle every day. I find that sealing the inside of the rifle wood with polyurothane varnish on rifles with POI shift problems does a good job of minimizing or even eliminating the problem.

Buy a NIB #1 and you probably will be able to get satisfactory accuracy. But be prepared to 'tweak" a bit to keep it. Or. get an older one with a laminate stock --they are not as seriously affected by climate change. I have owned 5 of them and none needed any stock work. (I have since sold them to concentrate on custom and pretty wood #1s.)

Good luck,
wunbe








wunbe

 

[drt213]

Thanks to all that responded to my post. Based on what was said, I will begin the search for me a 25-06. Seems like the #1s are pretty much like most of the rifles I have, you might need to do a little clean up here and there and work up a load that is likes best.

The link to the #1 group on Yahoo is very informative and helpful.

Thanks again for your help and I hope my search for a 25-06 is fruitful.

 

[Lloyd Smale]

my 1b 2506 is probably the most accurate ruger of any kind ive ever owned. By the way its an older red pad gun. Shoots 100 grain sierras or bts into tiny little groups!!!

 

[roofinspector]

When I am in the market for a No.1, it really does not matter which one it is really as I buy mainly for the action alone.....and sometimes for the stock.

200 dollar blue blank and your work, you have any caliber feasible. I am a barrel changer, the oem barrels are immediately pulled and replaced to my venture of the day.

If you have a 1/2"-1" No.1, that is good. Barrels are replaced sometimes for accuracy issues, but there are other aspects to the premium blank that calls. Nothing like a good barrel on a rifle in many respects.

Everyone puts out a good barrel, everyone has a clunker at times, I just quit that journey, and replace with a premium air guaged blank to my needs.

 

[Ruger # 1 Guy]

my 1b 2506 is probably the most accurate ruger of any kind ive ever owned. By the way its an older red pad gun. Shoots 100 grain sierras or bts into tiny little groups!!!

Need more Info, just how tiny are those tiny little groups and are they two shot groups or real shooter type 5 shot groups.
Ruger # 1 Guy

 

[Nomosendero]

Look at the annual "SHOOT" on the #1 Yahoo Group. That'll give you a good idea what a #1 CAN do.

As far as a 25-06 set up as a hunting rifle. I would expect it to shoot at or near MOA with some work and load selection. All but one of my HUNTING #1s 243-338 shoot right around MOA. Frankly I don't work really hard after that.

As far as pure accuracy with the PPCs, etc you can get some very decent accuracy. These are the results of last years shoot. two 5 shot groups at 100 yards
.224 or under .536 with 9Xs 22PPC
6mm-.308 .510 6PPC
.308-.400 .495 30BR
.400+ 1.75 45-70

The smallest groups shot in the #1 Group Shoot since 2005 was .391 in 2011 with a 6mm PPC.

I hear lots of guys talking sub 1/2" but they seldom submit two five shot targets for scoring. ;-)

The VERY best I have ever done is .315 for a % shot group at 100 yards with a custom/slightly modified 257 Roberts "V"

As far as the barrels. That will NOT usually be the issue. The non prefix 1967and early prefix gun up to about 130-05000 had Douglas Match Grade barrels, most shoot just fine in terms of hunting accuracy.

They changed to Wilson in mid 1973 or so. There were a few issues with SOME Wilson barrels early on as production increased. Mostly that as issues around very long troats in some calibers. Some of te most accurate #1s I own have Wilson Barrels.

They went to in house Ruger hammer forged barrels in 1991. They seem to be uniformly good barrels.

The Ruger #1 is a great single shot hunting rifle. It is NOT however a target rifle. The BEST #1s will out shoot most bolt guns when properly tuned and reloaded. The BEST bolt gun will always outshoot a #1.

I buy #1s by cartridge/configuration/wood/generation. I've spent a LOT of money on custom barrels over the years. My most accurate to date wears a factory Ruger barrel. ;-).

Ross

Good post

 

[Nomosendero]

drt213,

There are two issues to consider in NIB Ruger #1 accuracy -- grouping and consistent POI.

A tight group is just the beginning. Many -- indeed most #1s will shoot decent groups out of the box. Some however will not shoot tight enough groups and in those cases buggered wood/barrel contact -- even in NIB items -- is often the problem. I have had out of the factory #1s with foreends that touch on one side of the barrel but not the other and they gave squirrely "patterns" until some careful sanding of the high side. Some did not flourish until freefloated.

Please note that the guys above having excellent experiences with their #1s mostly live in hot dry clmates. They do not need to cope with the wide swings in humidity we have here. Those changes swell and shrink wood stocks that are not properly sealed and Ruger does not do that at the factory. Such wood changes due to climate shifts are not much of an issue in hot dry areas so holding POI over time is rarely a problem and gets little or no mention.

In my expereinces here in VA, my #1 results vary in that even small shifts in wood/metal contacts will move POI around from week to week and day to day. Sometimes they even wreck the grouping all together. Punching paper is not the problem -- just adjust the scope to move the group back where you want it. But hunting at distance can get problematic as you cannot rezero your rifle every day. I find that sealing the inside of the rifle wood with polyurothane varnish on rifles with POI shift problems does a good job of minimizing or even eliminating the problem.

Buy a NIB #1 and you probably will be able to get satisfactory accuracy. But be prepared to 'tweak" a bit to keep it. Or. get an older one with a laminate stock --they are not as seriously affected by climate change. I have owned 5 of them and none needed any stock work. (I have since sold them to concentrate on custom and pretty wood #1s.)

Good luck,
wunbe








wunbe

Yea, that's on my mind, I live in a hot, humid area. I have a Lipsey 264WM, it is doing very good, but I have not put it to the test in the hunting fields very much. I did take a good 4x4 WT last fall, but my range testing has been in good conditions. It is doing very well.

 

[Lloyd Smale]

my 1b 25-06 is one of the most accurate rifles i own. Through the years ive had less accuracy problems with #1s then i did with 77s. Especially if your talking the old tang saftey 77s

 

[suits me]

my 1bbz 25-06 is a tack driver. I have two other a's I have yet to fire, the debate in my head rages on whether or not I ever fire them. I do have a varminter in 22-250 that will zap gophers out to 150 yards with ease, it will however begin to open up with heavy repeated shooting.

 

[dlidster]

I hear lots of guys talking sub 1/2" but they seldom submit two five shot targets for scoring. ;-)
Ross

I have two No. 1s, a 1V in .223 that was made in 2000 and a 1A in .243 that was made in 1984. The 1V is the most accurate rifle I have ever owned. It's not terribly sensitive to loads, but its favorite is a 50 gr Speer HP over 29.0 gr of BL-C with an OAL of 2.31" which allows the bullet to just kiss the lands. Velocity is 3448; pressure, as indicated by lack of primer flattening, is mild. The barrel is free-floated and there's a small Delrin washer between the barrel and hanger exerting a tiny amount of pressure. (I'm not sure it's necessary, but the rifle is shooting so well I'm going to leave it in place.) I've tuned the crown. Other than this, everything is stock.

In the past year I've shot six groups less than 1/2". I believe that's a testimonial to what the rifle can do. All the other groups are a testimonial to what I can't do. I'm 70 and have had cataract surgery. I don't have fancy bench rest equipment. And, I probably wasn't a great shooter when I was younger anyway. I shot the target below last week. It's five shots .3" center-to-center.



I've only had my 1A two weeks. It's not as forgiving as the 1V, so I'm working with four different bullets, three different powders, and various charges and seating depths to determine what it likes. (This is a hobby, you know.) The target below is the third five-shot group I fired from this rifle the day after it arrived. I believe this is going to be a good one, too.

 

[Ruger # 1 Guy]

Hi dlidster,
Very, very nice groups.
You should enter the Ruger # 1 Shoot and make it "official" it may be good enough to set a new National Record or at the very least the Iowa State Record.
Ruger # 1 Guy

 

[dlidster]

You should enter the Ruger # 1 Shoot and make it "official"

Just one small problem. I've never been able to do it twice in a row.

In fact, I've rarely been able to do it twice in one outing. My point is that I'm delighted with the capabilities of the rifles. But I'm also very conscious of my own limitations. If I had a nickel for every group where four shots are touching, but one was somewhere else, I'd be able to finance my reloading. Those "flyers" are not the fault of the rifle. They're my fault.

All this is for fun. Those who expect any rifle to shoot sub-MOA groups with factory ammunition right out of the box aren't going to have fun. I've been loading for and shooting center-fire rifles for 56 years. The most important thing I've learned is that all rifles have one load that's better than any other. If I'm lucky enough to believe I've found it, I quit fooling around and stick with it. It makes me look like a better shooter.

BTW, that group with the 1A .243 was a trial load -- 100 gr Sierra SP, 37 gr 4350, bullet just kissing the lands, which yielded an OAL of 2.75" and velocity of only 2655. Since that trial run using different powders and bullets I've just had one or two other groups under an honest inch. But I know I'll find a load that'll do it again.

(BTW, I do know how to tweak a No. 1, but I work on load development first. No sense fixing something that might no be broken.)

 

[Jeepin Bowhunter]

I am a new owner of a black pad 1-V in 220 Swift. First time out with factory Remington 50 grain pointed soft points it printed a 5 shot 3/4" group. I hope to get out and punch some more paper soon.
JB