Rebarreling a 1A
- Thread starter cobalt402
- Start date
Where in Idaho are you? There is a shop in Middleton that did a bang up job with my #1 rebarrel.
If you are interested call JKD Gunsmithing at555.9922. I don't know if they do what you want but they have the technology and the tooling...
If you are interested call JKD Gunsmithing at555.9922. I don't know if they do what you want but they have the technology and the tooling...
picketpin
Buckeye
Cobalt: Shilen and Douglas make a barrel so close to "A" profile it's hard to tell. If you go that route your rib and sights off your 243 can be used. You will end up scraapping the barrel top save the front sight. At least MY experience has been that you can choose to save the barrel but if you need/want the front sight it's almost impossible to get it of without damaging the barrel. The easiest way to save the sight is to cut the barrel off and mill the barrel out.
Elite Rifle in Meridian, 465-8039, have done a bunch of re-barrels and re-chambered #1s for me over the last 30 years.
RWT
Elite Rifle in Meridian, 465-8039, have done a bunch of re-barrels and re-chambered #1s for me over the last 30 years.
RWT
roofinspector
Single-Sixer
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2009
- Messages
- 282
If one rebores, then the existing barrel, sights, finish, and markings are pretty much retained. Reboring and chambering can run north of $250 if the rebore is feasible from their point of view. Ruger drills/taps the quarter rib holes very deep on the No.1(especially the forward ones), so that comes into consideration. After the rebore, the chambering has to be done or at least the neck. I would certainly touch base with the reboring facility of choice on feasiblity and services.
I personally would favor a new barrel blank. In order to keep the No.1A and I am assuming the same AH forend without mods to said forend, then you might search for a barrel maker that will do the specific No.1A taper on his offerings. Lilja offers such in his data base, I suspect that PacNor does as well. Only two of many that has the Ruger tapers in their data bases. I was not aware that Shilen would custom taper to a No.1 contour, but of course you could inquire. A Shilen #1 taper might suffice, I really cannot say from here.
If you plan to retain the iron sights etc of the old barrel, then they can be fitted to the new one. The quarter rib etc should be able to be saved with not too many issues, perhaps new screws and alignment studs. Ruger has a thing with adhesives on these pieces. The front banded sight is listed by Ruger and by Brownells as a piece part, but I would inquire on availability first, as these are funny times right now. If you do procure a new No.1A factory front banded sight, it will have to be fitted or gaps will show as the piece part is straight bored and the barrel has a taper. If you find a patient gunsmith that will bore out the existing front sight from the old barrel, it may be pricey as tis time on the lathe, plus the hassle of doing that, over the 30-50 bucks for a new front banded ramp. A lot will not place into the lathe for that.
Nothing is magical about rebarreling a No.1, anyone that does basic gunsmithing can do it. The rebarrel will be more pricey than say a Remington 700 rebarrel because of the ejector cuts, and 4-6 holes in the barrel; then the front sight fitments. No.1s in a rebarrel are more time consuming than due to things that have to be timed in angle; hence the added costs in install.
I personally would favor a new barrel blank. In order to keep the No.1A and I am assuming the same AH forend without mods to said forend, then you might search for a barrel maker that will do the specific No.1A taper on his offerings. Lilja offers such in his data base, I suspect that PacNor does as well. Only two of many that has the Ruger tapers in their data bases. I was not aware that Shilen would custom taper to a No.1 contour, but of course you could inquire. A Shilen #1 taper might suffice, I really cannot say from here.
If you plan to retain the iron sights etc of the old barrel, then they can be fitted to the new one. The quarter rib etc should be able to be saved with not too many issues, perhaps new screws and alignment studs. Ruger has a thing with adhesives on these pieces. The front banded sight is listed by Ruger and by Brownells as a piece part, but I would inquire on availability first, as these are funny times right now. If you do procure a new No.1A factory front banded sight, it will have to be fitted or gaps will show as the piece part is straight bored and the barrel has a taper. If you find a patient gunsmith that will bore out the existing front sight from the old barrel, it may be pricey as tis time on the lathe, plus the hassle of doing that, over the 30-50 bucks for a new front banded ramp. A lot will not place into the lathe for that.
Nothing is magical about rebarreling a No.1, anyone that does basic gunsmithing can do it. The rebarrel will be more pricey than say a Remington 700 rebarrel because of the ejector cuts, and 4-6 holes in the barrel; then the front sight fitments. No.1s in a rebarrel are more time consuming than due to things that have to be timed in angle; hence the added costs in install.
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Thanks picketpin & roofinspector. More information is always good to have.Thanks for the tip about boring out the front sight, I hadn't thought of that as an option for retaining the sight but will now keep that in mind. I think that rebarreling would be preferable over reboring, due to the stresses that the barrel would endure in the process, and also, the grade of the barrel could be upgraded.
c4
c4
