Site on my .22/45 is drifted way over to the right, do they frequently come that way? Have tried turning rear sight adjustment screws to move the group to point of aim, but seems to require considerable adjustment to see any appreciable correction. The owner's manual does not tell how far one click moves the point of impact. I think my old Mk II moves 3/4" with one click, is this the same on the Mk III .22/45?
Rear sight; .22/45
- Thread starter 98PK
- Start date
Loosen the tiny screw that holds the sight base in the dovetail and move the entire sight to center. Center the windage adjustment. Then see where the POI falls.
Yeah, I'm almost thinking the sight was moving right while I was walking around, after I turned the adjustment screws to move everything left. I was perplexed at how the bullet holes seemed to keep grouping the same when I kept adjusting. Sometimes I'm the last to know.
SGW Gunsmith
Blackhawk
Also, it wouldn't hurt, once you get the sight base back to center, to remove that hold down screw in the left rear on top of the sight base. Then clean the threads with an oil displacing solvent, like acetone, or spray parts cleaner. A dab or two of Loctite #242 ( blue ), will keep that screw in place, once tightened down, and not back out. I would avoid the #222 ( Purple ) Loctite as that is the lowest strength thread-locker, they make.
Thanks for your suggestions, but with that set screw removed it still requires whacking or pressing the sight assembly one way or another, it's an interference-fit situation. It really looks like the factory just stuffed it in there half-way then shipped it. It's accurate enough for Steel Challenge, but not so much for small pests. Don't have a sight mover tool, probably just screw it as far left as I can and call it good.
SGW Gunsmith
Blackhawk
OK, that explanation makes sense, and that's the way the rear sight base should fit in the dovetail. If you have one, a caliper with a depth recording stem can help get that rear base centered pretty darn close on both sides. That's what I use to help align the rear base and it does help a lot.
Tom W
Blackhawk
Mine had the front sight get loose. Drive me nuts for a while until I figured it out. Cleaned, degreased, and put a dab of blue loctite and all is well with the world now.
22/45 Fan
Hunter
You don't need a sight mover tool. Remove the top end of the gun and the bolt and clamp the receiver firmly but not hard in a well padded vise with the sight extending above the vise jaws. Loosen the set screw several turns and use a brass drift and small hammer to center the sight in it's dovetail. Some sights will move with relatively light taps and some require a bit more convincing but they will move. A piece of masking tape on the end of the punch will avoid marking the sight base. When it's where you want it, tighten the set screw.98PK said:
I've moved, removed and replaced rear sights on numerous pistols, including my own MkII and MkIV and several center fire autos this way with no problems.
SGW Gunsmith
Blackhawk
98PK said:
Well, if it does require "whacking" or forceful hits to make that sight base move, it sure isn't moving in either direction from just walking around. I use copper rods for drifting sight bases as the copper smear left behind on the bluing is much easier to remove from a blued surface, just using bore solvent and the copper is softer than brass. Brass is still hard enough to indent the metal.
