I disagree with you
The pin IS in the wrong corner. It IS true, that by proper fitting, you can make them stay under normal conditions with the pin right where Ruger puts it, but the pressure point at the bottom does it's job best when it's applying that pressure from the better angle to the hub from the back corner. That said, by double pinning them, which is my preference, it doesn't make a lot of difference where the bottom pin is anyway. I have several pair that have the bottom pin in it's original position, and the top pin added, but the position just makes more sense, and definitely works better on it's own as a single pin. I also prefer to just move the pin over fixing the whole and redrilling the hole in the grip panel to fix factory misalignment. John Linebaugh does the same thing I do, but he drills a hole for a bushing inside the main meat of the outside of the frame in the back corner, brazes the bushing in, and uses it to hold the roll pin, which in turn is now much further in toward the inside, which makes the edge of fine wood grips less susceptible to busting under heavy recoil. This is unnecessary on a small caliber, but heavy recoil makes grips do CRAZY stuff. SEEN IT MYSELF :shock: I actually haven't made any other grips beside Bisley grips yet, cus mine are mostly Bisleys, but didn't find it too tough, just very time consuming. I've therefore decided that the pros like you can have that business :wink: It's all I can do to get my own made. By the time Dad decks the grip frames on the mill, which are ALWAYS off, and I get the grips made, which takes a while to get them sanded to the frame and right so they stay put and in proper position under heavy recoil, then get the frames refinished after mating them together, and sanding the grips in, we've got almost two days of setup and labor between us. Repinning the factory grips and trimming the bottom of the frame is WAY easier than making a set of grips.
If you reread what I said about milling the bottom of the grip frame, you'll see what you suggested has nothing to do with the issue I chose to correct. If I wanted custom grips, I'd of made them, and not milled the grip frame off on the bottom. AS STATED, I milled it to fit up to my favorite factory grips. It's no trouble at all for a good machinest. It took Dad all of 15 minutes to set up the mill, and complete the job.
Bisley grips, and all Ruger single action grips have various fit problems. The frame size variation is one of several. It's been quite some time since I saw ANY new Ruger single action with a properly fit set of grips come off the line. The new grips are just too short to even fit the frame. Either that or the grip frame is just too long. I usually find that the grip frame and main cylinder frame don't mate up properly, so if the gun is going to have a properly fit set of grips, this issue of mating them properly must be taken care of first. It usually doesn't take much to get them to fit up at the hub. The problem is when you remove the pin at the bottom, and slide them up to where they fit better, the grip frame is now 1/16" to 1/8" below the bottom of the grips, if it wasn't already that far before. The options are (1) live with it, (2) fit them up and clean the excess off the bottom, or (3) call Cary C or SK or somebody to make a pair that actually fits, cus the factory ones sure don't :mrgreen:
