need opinions......revolvers are binding

[mgbob]

I have 2 Ruger security six revolvers. One is stainless, the other is blue. I keep them well cleaned & properly lubricated. The problem happens to both.

While firing at the range, they slowly get warmer, & slowly begin to bind up. The blue one will start after about 200 rounds. The stainless one will start after only about 75 rounds.

After shooting more rounds, the blue one still functions, but barely.
The stainless one binds so badly that it will no longer function.

After cooling for a day, & without ANY cleaning at all, they both function like new......no binding at all.

Is this normal ? Am I over-reacting ? Any suggestions ?

 

[5of7]

The only thing I can think of is that there may not be enough gap between the cylinder and the barrel. 8)

 

[arfmel]

Have you tried measuring the gap with a feeler gauge? Auto supply places sell them pretty cheap if you don't have one. I bought one a couple weeks ago from Auto Zone for $8.00.

 

[David Bradshaw]

*****

Having shot a revolver until it’s ready to fry my trigger finger----rather, a variety of revolvers, including Ruger .357 Maximums at high pressure and sub-.002" barrel/cylinder gap----and without cylinder binding, in my unsponsored opinion automotive lubricants with carbon-cutting properties help to keep powder fouling from “caking.” Synthetic motor oil, moly-disufide chassis grease, automatic transmission fluid ( and Anti-Seize Compound for some applications, especially the ratchet hub on a stainless cylinder), reduce wear and parts hammering.

Synthetic oil or grease is less climate sensitive than petroleum and less able to bind with moisture.

ENDSHAKE makes it easier for fouling to enter between CYLINDER FACE (or GAS RING) and CRANE.

Some powders foul readily, as do certain bullets and cast bullet lubes. And then there is the gun. Chamber-to-barrel misalignment directs more gas away from the bore. An oversize chamber exit, especially in conjunction with a tight bore, causes more SIDEBLAST.

Finally, no rule says you can’t lube while you’re shooting a few hundred rounds. While it has nothing to do with revolvers, the locking lugs on my XP-100 bolt action pistols were greased every 40 rounds----or twice, during an 80 round tournament (to prevent galling and bolt wear).
David Bradshaw

 

[dobrojay]

Don't understand why we pay good $ to have to go through this BS of having to spend $6 for a feeler gauge to check out a multi million dollar company that apparently doesn't have one.

 

[arfmel]

I would guess that most revolver shooters don't shoot three or four boxes of ammunition fast enough to heat up a revolver sufficiently to cause binding issues.

 

[Big Old Boy]

It may be the rounds the op is using. I carried a security six as a Leo our practice ammunition reloads were dirty and would cause binding though our carry ammunition was Winchester 145 gr silver tips and never had issues.

 

[rugerguy]

having shot with and carry of revolvers back in our LE days, one of the things that often occurred with LOTS of firing at the range, all types of ammo, and hearing from LE agencies, and shops that worked on, serviced them....there was binding, especially with the stainless version guns, ,same with the S&Ws back in the day,,,,and having worked with and training under Mr Dan Wesson, he always spoke of the issues with the stainless guns using the various alloys then...same goes for the tolerances, heat, expansion, fouling and a BIG complaint of many LE, why the got away from revolvers.....they didn't stop making them for no good reasons...same continued with the L frames S&W, and we had to do modifications ( updates) to these as well....LE does not have the time , or the means when "out in the field, on street" to be cleaning and oiling the service ,duty weapons....went back in, and came to us armorers.........beside the fact they were only 6 shots, ( mag pouch , 12 more) and the "new " semi autos of the day were high capacity, over a half box of ammo on your belt 8) :roll:

as for the OP complaint, very possible, and could be a few other reasons, "why"....would really have to check things out, and with guns that are no longer made,supported by the maker, tougher to replace and swap out pieces, parts........they are what they 'were'........ :wink:

 

[wd4ins]

Make sure there’s no fouling or unburnt powder under the extractor star. That’s always been the problem with any binding I’ve experienced.

 

[wildcatter]

Don't understand why we pay good $ to have to go through this BS of having to spend $6 for a feeler gauge to check out a multi million dollar company that apparently doesn't have one.

Never had to,, but even 45 years ago I allays wanted to know 3 things if I was thinking about buying a revolver, it usually will tell you before you stick a round in the chamber what you might expect! If I was looking for a particular caliber, they were always Rugers! I carried a jacketed bullet and a feeler gauge, what I wanted max to be acceptable. Plus if had a choice, I always grabbed the tightest. I prefer tight throats as well, I want to need to throat it!

1) how tight the chamber throats were, some wont even shoot lead without work first, some need larger than I can cast out of the molds, one can be fixed, one can't.
2) timing, this isn't an exact science but you know if the double action is timed enough for assured lockup before hammer falls, and and even if they are in single action I've seen some that would bind because they were to advanced with the pawl on both.
3) barrel cylinder gap, not just for performance but to make sure I didn't grab a spitter!

No one has to have any tools, and as you suggest all manufacturers do, but they have specific range that's acceptable,, most own these tools because the care about where the revolver is within that range,,, others don't because they either don't care, or don't have a clue what they mean anyways,,,,,

It's like for some, a bullet mold or dies isn't required, and they wouldn't know how or why to use them, but for those that want the best and know what it takes to get it, they will own both! :wink:

 

[Kevin]

Where are you shooting in the northwest suburbs of Chi-town? I used to live in Palatine and went out west of Chicago to shoot...

But for binding, if you are shooting 200 rounds and then it starts to bind; isn’t it possible it just needs cleaned? From my humble experience, revolvers seem to get much dirtier than semi-autos.

With all due respect, are you simply expecting too much?

 

[eveled]

He's says it they shoot fine the next day, without cleaning just cooling.

I don't know of any lube that gets thicker as it heats up, but I'm still curious what lube you are using.

Is it bound up even when empty?

You need to figure out what is binding, and if it really is temp related. I'm wondering if you can find a way to heat them without firing to see if they bind even when absolutely clean.


With all that said, to me it's obvious some tolerance somewhere is too tight.

 

[Asltrfl]

I had the same issue with a Bushmaster AR. After 600 rounds as fast as I could fire it, it started to cook-off rounds. Then it finally jammed up due to carrier being dirty and heat expansion. I guess a tactial single-action would do the same. I, too, learned to just use synthetic Mobil 1. In AZ it worked better than all the new-fangled oils in 125 degree heat. I've since moved to Utah, and Mobil 1 works just as good in -15 degree cold. And when the firearm gets hot you just drop it in the snow for a few minutes and it's ready to go again. Oh, and nothing like a "tactical reload" with spare loaded cylinders on a single-action revolver.