help with .44 flattop "jewel" question

bennettfam

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jul 18, 2010
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268
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Upstate California
Right up front: sorry for no photo. Haven't figured that out yet. I have a 1959 vintage 7-1/2" .44 flattop, non-converted, original finish probably 90-95%. It is a shooter for me, but like most folks I am curious about its value. I wondered how the value is affected by "jeweling" (decorative metal finishing) on the hammer. I would appreciate any educated guesses on the gun's value in this condition, or with an original hammer?
 
7.5" is a nice variation, the jeweled hammer is a personal preference thing, seems like the older guys like-em and the younger guys wonder why. Since the condition is not high 90's, I agree, a nice shooter & most collectors would pass. Not to say a Collector of Shooters wouldn't mind owning it. :D Keep in mind most would rather have a 90% original finish than a 100% re-do.
As decribed,
no photo's,
& what would the gun would sell for in today's economy.
IMO ~$750.
Change out the hammer $800-850.

If you decide you want a nice original hammer drop me a PM. :D
 
I say a 7 1/2 in 44 flattop will bring an easy $1100 to $1200 dollars. There are very few of them out there.
 
I'd remove that jeweling if it wasn't very "deep". A BKH-47 is a "hot commodity". The one I have in my shooter box is "top dog" in my arsenal of .44 mags.

JMHO,

flatgate
 
Jeweling is usually only skin deep - the beauty of the hammer lies beneath!

Pull the hammer and do a flatgate polish - take some 320 grit wet/dry paper and lay it on the flattest surface you can find and run the hammer back and forth in nice straight lines (use a straight edge along the side) and try to mimic the "grain" of the original machining marks. You may need to block one end along the straight edge to get the proper angle. It shouldn't take long to get through the whirligig marks, they are probably only about as deep as bluing.
 
do what they said above, works most all of the time, if in doubt or there is ANY 'slop' in the hammer ( side to side) or to prevent that from happening, do any and all polishing ,from the top of the hammers "circle" upward to the top (spur) this way you remove only the material that "shows" and NOT any from where the hammer actually 'rides" in the frame....if done correctly, one cannot tell..............................very simple and easy to do, the hard part is taking the gun apart without "boogering" any of the parts ( frame or screws...) use the proper fitting ,hollow ground screwdriver.......
Take your time and remember "neatness counts"....heck if you were over here, we could have done it for you already........we get these all the time.
we keep in practice and its "free"........
 
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Hmmm. Much to think about. This is exactly the info I was looking for. Glad I joined this forum. Not sure I am up to tackling this type of project just now, but eventually I will want to get the gun as close to original as possible. That's just the way I like them even if they are "shooters". Thanks alot for all the great input.
 
JussBad, thanks for offering to help! I'm not ready to work on this gun just yet (family gun, will need to think on it for awhile). But hey, I may just take you up on it someday. I am in Red Bluff so not too far away from Marysville. (2hrs?) Man, you forum guys are great! Anybody want to paint my house?
 
JuaaBad,
I won't be able to make the Chico show Aug 21-22. Hiking Mt.Lassen Sat, family reunion BBQ Sun. Otherwise I would check out your wears and bend your ear some. But I am not ready to alter this gun yet. Thanks again for the help though.
 

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