Hairline crack on Savage 6A stock

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GunnyGene

Hawkeye
Joined
Nov 23, 2013
Messages
9,420
Location
Monroe County, MS
Today while cleaning my old 6A, I noticed a thin hairline crack as shown in the pics below. It's a little hard to see from the outside, but easy to see in the 2nd pic. I suspect it's not from abuse, but just the age of the wood that caused it. 75 years of humidity and temp changes.

With the barrel/receiver installed it doesn't move at all, and doesn't seem to affect the accuracy or operation of the rifle, however with the stock removed there is a slight movement.

So, I have 2 options: Repair or leave it alone.

What would y'all recommend; Option A or Option B? I have an idea of how I might repair it, but will hold off on that until y'all can chime in on possible repair actions.

My concern is that the crack may propagate farther, and eventually be a more serious problem. This gun will eventually be willed to one of my daughters, and I'd like to keep it in good shooting condition.

crackoutside.jpg~original


crack2.jpg~original
 

Enigma

Hunter
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Apr 17, 2002
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2,529
Location
Houston metro area, TX
I would repair it, personally. IMHO, its only going to get worse. I know how I would personally repair it - by drilling a small 'stop' hole at the end of the crack, routing out some wood on the inside, and repairing it with epoxy, while also filling the hole that I drilled. Depending on how much stress that area of the stock is subject to, I might also install 1-2 brass pins.
 

GunnyGene

Hawkeye
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Nov 23, 2013
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Location
Monroe County, MS
Enigma said:
I would repair it, personally. IMHO, its only going to get worse. I know how I would personally repair it - by drilling a small 'stop' hole at the end of the crack, routing out some wood on the inside, and repairing it with epoxy, while also filling the hole that I drilled. Depending on how much stress that area of the stock is subject to, I might also install 1-2 brass pins.

Thanks. You confirmed the advice I've gotten from a few other folks. :)
 

GunnyGene

Hawkeye
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Nov 23, 2013
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Monroe County, MS
powder smoke said:
Could always make a new one be a nice project. ps

I could, and have walnut on hand, but not interested in making a new stock from scratch. Besides, this gun is all original, and I'd like to keep it that way.
 

xtratoy

Buckeye
Joined
Jun 15, 2006
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1,745
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Vancouver WA USA
I have fixed cracks in forends of lever action guns by slightly twisting the crack open enough to get some thick Super Glue in there then letting pressure off so it closes back up squeezing glue throughout the crack. Wipe off excess and let dry. I also fixed a Remington 700 7mm Mag walnut stock this way.
 

Chuck 100 yd

Hunter
Joined
Mar 20, 2010
Messages
3,251
Location
Ridgefield WA
Enigma beat me to it. His method is exactly the way I would repair it.
I would use a round burr on a Dremmel tool and cut a deep channel to within 1/8" of the outer surface and about 1/4" wide on the inside and fill with epoxy bedding compound. Open the crack and put thinned super glue in the crack only,wiping off the excess on the outside and letting it dry before doing the stock bedding compound.
It will be stronger than it ever was.
 

toysoldier

Hunter
Joined
Aug 23, 2006
Messages
3,332
Location
Hutchinson, KS USA
I have repaired several split stocks, including a couple that were severely split/loose pieces. I use Elmer's Wood Glue, thinned a little. Open the crack, get the glue in (a little mouth-to-stock resusitation), then use an elastic band to clamp. I've used innertube strips, but have access to Esmark bandages used in surgery---wide, thin elastic strips 9 yards long.

The key to a long-lasting repair is to correct the bedding issue that caused the split in the first place. Accraglass is your friend.
 

OldePhart

Blackhawk
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Dec 12, 2014
Messages
582
Location
Texas, USA
Some good advice above. Just one note...if you are using epoxy I recommend using the slow-set (24 hour cure) kind. After getting it into the crack, warm it with a heat gun (just be careful not to damage the varnish of course). Warming it makes it turn to liquid instead of gel and it will penetrate the crack and the surrounding wood much better. Using the slow-set epoxy gives you time to do all this and then clamp the crack shut and wipe up any squeeze out, etc.

John
 
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