Felling axes...

Joined
Mar 5, 2006
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1,137
City & State/Province
alaska
Anyone here have any personal experience with either Gransfors Bruks, or Helko Werk, felling axes??
I had a decent felling axe when I moved to Alaska.. It really saved my butt one winter when my only chainsaw broke, early in freeze-up, and the weather turned really cold.
I split the handle and have since misplaced the head... grrrrrrr......
With gas prices I may be reduced to going native, and trying to drop a tree with a collins, or other hardware store axe, is nothing short of torture.....
One of my 3 primary purchases this year, has to be a good axe.....
 
I have a Plumb saddle axe, that I bought in 1961. It has dropped many hundreds of trees.

Went looking to see if they were still available, but sigh, they are only on eBay, etc., for
fifteen times what I paid for mine (and in a LOT worse shape).

Good luck in your quest.
 
Not a felling axe, but I have a Granfors Outdoor Axe. They cost a bunch more than Home Depot axes but they are immeasurably better.

I guess you could call it ergonomics but they seem easier and cut better. They also hold an edge better.

Edge holding is something most users seem to overlook. I don’t know if it’s the steel, tempering, geometry or all three combined but they make an excellent ace.
 
I have 3 single bit 'clubs' pretending to be axes, 2 single bit 'camp axes'(one is an excellent specimen, maybe not as good as Granfors, but useable), and 3 'vintage' double bit axes (made when axes were made to use for chopping). As a youngster, I learned how to use an axe properly but these days, I don't chop much.
 
During the winter of 1966-67, Dad and I cleared over 15 acres of trees and brush from thumb sized to 10-12" diameter. We only used a chainsaw on the 8" and bigger diameter trees. The rest was axe only. I chopped a lot of sprouts until we got so busy there wasn't time and Dad bought a brush hog.
 
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What kind of axes do the people on timber sports competition use?
I have an old tru -temper from 1963 and was never able to get it to cut like those.
 
I have a couple old double but axes that are made of Swedish steel. Don’t remember the maker, but I always carried one in my exploration vehicle for downed trees across the trail. Don’t use them much, but they cut like a knife thru butter.
 
The axes I'm looking at are all in the $200+ range.... Actual jumber jack "racing axe"s can go for upwards of $500...
I just need something efficient.. not fancy.... I'm concerned with gas prices, as I doubt they will return to sane, any time soon. I'm on a limited income.. I have 3 really good chainsaws, but without gas and oil they are worthless...
 
As above I don't have a felling axe but have three smaller Gransfors Bruks axes (Scandinavian Forest axe and 2 hatchets). In my opinion they are the best thing on the market, but I've heard that the prices have skyrocketed. I look at them as not only a surperb cutting tool but a lifetime investment that will be passed on to the next generation. I do have a Council Tool Hudson Bay boys axe and use it quite a bit to split my kindling in the winter and it 's a really good axe. So... If it were me, I'd buy a Gansfors Felling axe unless they priced you out, and then maybe look at a Council Tool. I'm sure there are a lot of other good axes out there too.
 
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Council tool are good and more affordable than the overpriced over hyped hults bruks and granfors bruks. The swede ones are good no doubt but twice the price they should be. I'd go to pawn or junk shops and buy old heads cheap and re handle them. Sager, Plumb, Canadian Norlunds and other forged brands were all top quality that could be re handled. Several swedish brands were offered at regular prices back in the day also. I've re handled many $5 heads that today would be worth $200 if the were still available new.
 
For the energy used to fall a tree, a cross-cut saw works for me. I have a one man that has a handle you can take off if a second person is not available. It is about as easy to pack as an axe large enough to fall a tree.
 
"What kind of axes do the people on timber sports competition use?
I have an old tru -temper from 1963 and was never able to get it to cut like those."
^^ THAT^^ is the difference between a Chevy/Ford and a Ferrari/Maserati. Those competition axes cost big bucks and will take/hold an edge like a high quality razor.
"For the energy used to fall a tree, a cross-cut saw works for me."
A cross-cut does work better and uses less energy to fall a tree over about 8". Downside of the saw is maintenance. Back in the old days, most anyone could put some sort of edge on an axe with nothing more than a well chosen rock. Saws required much more attention and care, were more difficult to carry, and had no other purpose than sawing. An axe was for more useful and easier to pack.
 
I prefer an axe to a saw, although if I'm reduced to going old school, I have to carry both, as I can't carry a full tree in over my shoulder...
Lets face it... if I can't afford or get, gas and oil for my saw, I probably won't be using my snowmobile or ATV to haul the wood either.... or it will be very limited...
I'm looking worst case scenario. I don't want to depend on the world going back to where it was just a few years ago..
And yeah.... sharpening a cross cut saw is a chore. When I bought mine, I don;'t think anyone ever sharpened it... But I was glad I had it and that old axe, because it was my only wood harvesting tools for almost a month (December in Alaska)....
Right now I have about 55 gallons of gas and about 1.5 gallons of bar oil.... 2.5 gallons of 2 cycle.. But I need that for the snowmobile as well..... No idea how much I'll be able to add to that for next winter....
 
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