Clear coat on PU s coming off?
- Thread starter chuck
- Start date
I have the same thing happening with my 97 F250. The proper repair is to sand off the remaining clear coat and repaint/clear the affected panel. Mine for example requires the hood, cowl, tops of fenders to the reveal line and the roof.
Average quote for my vehicle is $1500. Some higher some lower. I am on the fence on whether or not to do it.
To answer your question, if a repaint and reclear is done, it seems to be a real fair price if properly done.
Dave
Average quote for my vehicle is $1500. Some higher some lower. I am on the fence on whether or not to do it.
To answer your question, if a repaint and reclear is done, it seems to be a real fair price if properly done.
Dave
If it is coming off one place it will probably be coming off the rest given time. Do the whole truck unless you want to re-do it later.chuck said:
Rick Courtright
Hawkeye
Hi,
Chuck, it sounds like you're dealing with what all of us in the warmer areas south of you have been suffering for several years. I like to suggest the EPA probably owes just about every car owner from SoCal latitudes to FL a paint job! How's that for an air quality disaster? A fellow who shot at our range for years owned a body shop that did a lot of high end cars, and built a lot of custom hot rods. He was one of the few guys around who'd spent the money to get certified or whatever it took to shoot lacquer in CA when they essentially outlawed it. So while he did beautiful work, the customer paid dearly for it. That certification cost him nearly a quarter million dollars! Even doing vehicles that rolled out the door at $75-100k each for the custom jobs, it takes a whole lot of them just to crack that nut.
Anyway, he said the idea of a clear coat may not be all bad on paper, but it goes south in application. When some buddies decided we could be car painters in high school (oh, my...) the rule of thumb was a gallon of paint (color) per car for an average sedan. Our body shop buddy said when they went to the clear coat process, the color coat was reduced to a quart or less on a similar sized car. With the $25/gal paint we used now pushing $100, it's easy to see the savings the mfr was looking at.
But then the problem arose. The clear coat was very inexpensive compared to the color (good?), but the EPA types got into it (bad.) The stuff they approved of wouldn't bond with the color coat well, and exposure to sunlight and heat just cooks the stuff. Off it comes. I believe Pamela (Colonialgirl) had addressed this very issue from her previous life in that biz. Basically, it seems any horizontal surface in in danger first, so if you can catch it at just the hood or top of the cab, you're probably lucky. I disagree with Frank on getting the whole car painted if you can get away without it. There's no way an aftermarket paint job can match the factory's work, and even a crappy factory job is better than what you'll get in most shops I've seen. So it's kinda like going to the dentist and keeping your original teeth as much as possible. I have a car which got a whole car paint job instead of just a minor repair--it belonged to a friend who'd bought it new, and she had it painted against my advice. I bought it from her before the "new" paint job started to blister, and it's so bad now I'd be ashamed to have her see it, cuz not only is it ugly but I'd have a hard time avoiding the "See why I told you sos."
As for prices, that paint job cost her $2000 about 10 years ago. I'm guessing the same job might run $3000 or more today, so the price you got is probably fair for the amount of work I'm guessing you need. But the quality's a crap shoot at any price today best I can tell. If you can get a painter to use all color, bypassing the clear coat, you might do better. My old '88 Toyota pickup has pretty decent paint for being 30 years old, and it's got no clear coat... but there's still a catch: the truck was built in Japan with a US made bed (some tariff deal?) The cab has Japanese paint, the bed has US paint. The cab stays nice and shiny with minimum upkeep, while the bed has oxidized quickly enough to require work to keep it matching the cab, almost since Day One.
Good luck with your choice!
Rick C
Chuck, it sounds like you're dealing with what all of us in the warmer areas south of you have been suffering for several years. I like to suggest the EPA probably owes just about every car owner from SoCal latitudes to FL a paint job! How's that for an air quality disaster? A fellow who shot at our range for years owned a body shop that did a lot of high end cars, and built a lot of custom hot rods. He was one of the few guys around who'd spent the money to get certified or whatever it took to shoot lacquer in CA when they essentially outlawed it. So while he did beautiful work, the customer paid dearly for it. That certification cost him nearly a quarter million dollars! Even doing vehicles that rolled out the door at $75-100k each for the custom jobs, it takes a whole lot of them just to crack that nut.
Anyway, he said the idea of a clear coat may not be all bad on paper, but it goes south in application. When some buddies decided we could be car painters in high school (oh, my...) the rule of thumb was a gallon of paint (color) per car for an average sedan. Our body shop buddy said when they went to the clear coat process, the color coat was reduced to a quart or less on a similar sized car. With the $25/gal paint we used now pushing $100, it's easy to see the savings the mfr was looking at.
But then the problem arose. The clear coat was very inexpensive compared to the color (good?), but the EPA types got into it (bad.) The stuff they approved of wouldn't bond with the color coat well, and exposure to sunlight and heat just cooks the stuff. Off it comes. I believe Pamela (Colonialgirl) had addressed this very issue from her previous life in that biz. Basically, it seems any horizontal surface in in danger first, so if you can catch it at just the hood or top of the cab, you're probably lucky. I disagree with Frank on getting the whole car painted if you can get away without it. There's no way an aftermarket paint job can match the factory's work, and even a crappy factory job is better than what you'll get in most shops I've seen. So it's kinda like going to the dentist and keeping your original teeth as much as possible. I have a car which got a whole car paint job instead of just a minor repair--it belonged to a friend who'd bought it new, and she had it painted against my advice. I bought it from her before the "new" paint job started to blister, and it's so bad now I'd be ashamed to have her see it, cuz not only is it ugly but I'd have a hard time avoiding the "See why I told you sos."
As for prices, that paint job cost her $2000 about 10 years ago. I'm guessing the same job might run $3000 or more today, so the price you got is probably fair for the amount of work I'm guessing you need. But the quality's a crap shoot at any price today best I can tell. If you can get a painter to use all color, bypassing the clear coat, you might do better. My old '88 Toyota pickup has pretty decent paint for being 30 years old, and it's got no clear coat... but there's still a catch: the truck was built in Japan with a US made bed (some tariff deal?) The cab has Japanese paint, the bed has US paint. The cab stays nice and shiny with minimum upkeep, while the bed has oxidized quickly enough to require work to keep it matching the cab, almost since Day One.
Good luck with your choice!
Rick C
miniman
Blackhawk
they wraped my buddys hood and roof on his dodge for the same reason 150 bucks looks like new.
Colonialgirl
Hawkeye
You MIGHT want to look into using a catalyzed Urethane coating that requires NO clear top coat. Yeah a gallon of urethane and a gallon of catalyst will make you choke up a bit, but such urethanes are used on aircraft with no clear (Clear would add more weight to the aircraft) and they hold up quite well.
With proper spraying technique they are quite smooth and require no sanding and buffing. Don't know about today, but Rust-Oleum use to make and sell some outstanding Urethane coatings. (worked there from 1980 to 1986 as their Quality Control Manager and Manager of Process Engineering < Hagerstown, MD plant>) It was a privately owned company in those days, but no longer.
BIO: 15 years with DeSoto Paint and Coatings as QC lab Tech, Paint Chemist, Sears Paint Chemist, and Asst Plant Super, paint production. Four semesters of Paint Technology (1-Pigments, 1-Resins and 2 of formulating); BS Degree in Process Engineering CSULB ; Plus Rust-Oleum and a couple of other companies in Florida.
With proper spraying technique they are quite smooth and require no sanding and buffing. Don't know about today, but Rust-Oleum use to make and sell some outstanding Urethane coatings. (worked there from 1980 to 1986 as their Quality Control Manager and Manager of Process Engineering < Hagerstown, MD plant>) It was a privately owned company in those days, but no longer.
BIO: 15 years with DeSoto Paint and Coatings as QC lab Tech, Paint Chemist, Sears Paint Chemist, and Asst Plant Super, paint production. Four semesters of Paint Technology (1-Pigments, 1-Resins and 2 of formulating); BS Degree in Process Engineering CSULB ; Plus Rust-Oleum and a couple of other companies in Florida.
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Rick Courtright
Hawkeye
Colonialgirl said:
Hi,
Years ago (like 40) a co-worker did custom bicycle frames using DuPont Imron. I believe it was one of those urethanes. Stuff was super tough, and produced gorgeous results--because of the numerous nooks and crannies he was shooting, he did all his work with an air brush--and he mentioned the aircraft connection, too. Is it still around?
Rick C
Colonialgirl
Hawkeye
DuPont Imron Industrial Strength High Gloss Polyurethane Gallon
Check with Sherwin Williams; I believe they make urethane coatings too; GO to a paint store or even better if you can find one, a specialty store that specializes in automotive coatings, and spray equipment too. Use to be one up in Orlando, FL but I've forgotten the name and location.
Check with Sherwin Williams; I believe they make urethane coatings too; GO to a paint store or even better if you can find one, a specialty store that specializes in automotive coatings, and spray equipment too. Use to be one up in Orlando, FL but I've forgotten the name and location.
It's a 24 year old Toyota pickup. Approximately 1/2 the 90's "yoders" in the midwest have peeling paint(the other 1/2 have peeled, rusted through, and parts are falling off).
Jimbo357mag
Hawkeye
I have an older Toyota that has blistered on the trunk and part of the top. I am going to do a DIY repair in the near future with Dupi-Color paint from the auto parts store.
BTW, I think no amateur should shoot Imron or similar paint unless outside and up-wind or well suited-up and with a respirator. That stuff is dangerous to your health. ...and $575 seems more than reasonable for a professional job on your truck.
BTW, I think no amateur should shoot Imron or similar paint unless outside and up-wind or well suited-up and with a respirator. That stuff is dangerous to your health. ...and $575 seems more than reasonable for a professional job on your truck.
chuck said:
Back in the 90's (+/-), when the government required the removal of the components in automobile paint that made it work like it was supposed to, the auto companies experimented with replacement components. Some of them had better luck than others, but there was a tremendous amount of paint failures.
A $575 clear coat job is cheap, and I can't imagine it's a very good job. Many cars of the era that have failed paint don't have a lot of value, so is it even worth a $575 job? Earl Scheib comes to mind as an alternative.
CraigC
Hawkeye
That's what I'm thinking. If I was keeping it, I'd paint the whole thing and be done with it.Mobuck said:
