Case trimmer problems - SOLVED! Thanks.

Capn27

Single-Sixer
Joined
Nov 10, 2008
Messages
144
City & State/Province
Gig Harbor, WA
I have an old Lyman (Orange) case trimmer which is giving me fits. The case head vise turns loose of .223 cases and they just spin instead of trimming. When I do get it to hold, the trim length seems to vary from case to case by .010" - .020", sometimes more. It never goes under minimum, but after measuring a trimmed case I have to put it back in and try again.

I have the feeling that it is just too old and worn out, much like the operator. I was hoping it would last me until I lose my interest in guns, shooting and loading, but . . .

Should I just look for a replacement or start replacing parts. Can you even get parts? Might cost more than it's worth to fix, because I'd be just replacing parts until it starts working right.

Update: I was trying to use this with a variable-speed battery drill motor. I changed over to a small (but high quality) electric screwdriver and it is much more controllable. An occasional case still slips in the collet, but nowhere near as bad as before.

I think perhaps a new carbide cutter head would be useful. Note again: I just backordered one from Midway along with their power adaptor shaft.
 
Not familiar with the Lyman trimmer, but if that happened with my Forester, I would be sure I had the correct collet first, and while it was out, check for a buildup of crud that might prevent it from closing properly.
 
The Lyman has a "Universal" collet check. Looking at the reviews on the Midway site, trouble using it with small cases seems to be normal.
 
There are four different collets that I know of for the Forester trimmer, each with multiple steps in it for use with different cartridges. Everytime I use mine I check to see I have the correct collet installed. Only time I've ever had a case slip was when I had the wrong collet in the trimmer. Thats the reason I said what I did.
 
I use a Forster and ocassionally have to grease the collet and it's recess so it works smoothly. If you haven't already, take the collet out and blow out all the accumulated debris that seems to build up in that space. Wipe out the gunk and apply your choice of grease(I'm currently using wheel bearing grease for all fireams related uses that call for a grease type product). As long as the collet is not physically worn out, this should help. Using a cordless drill puts a lot more torque on the shell holder than hand operation.
 
I'm using a Lyman - not a Forster. Dirt is not the problem, it is the design.

I'm currently building a jig to set it up in the drill press. This should ease the problems because everything will be running "in line" instead of wobbling with a hand-held motor.
 
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I got a jig built to set up my trimmer vertically in the drill press/mill. Still had trouble. Then I noticed my jig was not vertical. Phooey! I used to be able to build things and they'd turn out right. So, I shimmed the jig.

The cases still popped out of the collet.

So, I listened to gmartinnc and mobuck. (Thanks, guys!) I took the collet chuck apart, cleaned it, greased it with some wheel bearing grease, put it back together, took it apart again, then put it back together correctly this time. I only "lost" a spring on the floor once. Man that floor is just full of little things that look like springs!

Viola!! I'll be darned if it doesn't work! I set the stop on the quill shaft to match the stop on the trimmer. It's easy to put too much pressure on the quill and dislodge the stop on the trimmer.

This is going to make trimming a lot more pleasant. I have a few hundred .30 M-1 cases to trim for my .30 carbine Blackhawk, which task I have been dreading. My right shoulder needs another rotator cuff overhaul and I'm trying to postpone that until after I'm dead. The first time was so much fun!

Update: I trimmed 120 cases in about 30 minutes this morning. Then over to the lathe to chamfer the rough ends. Next, I need to build one of those power chamfering machines with three or four shafts for different tools. They want $130 for one at the LGS. I think I have enough parts lying around to build one for free.
 
Capn27 said:
Next, I need to build one of those power chamfering machines with three or four shafts for different tools. They want $130 for one at the LGS. I think I have enough parts lying around to build one for free.


Good news overall. Please keep us posted on your next project.
 

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