"Carbon rings,' again

[Mike Armstrong]

I know this has been addressed here, but can't seem to find the threads.

I often shoot "specials" in my "magnums:" .22WRF in WRM, .32 Long in .32 H&R, .38 Spl. in .357. And when I go to clean them, there is usually a pronounced ring of very resistant "stuff" right around the mouth of the "special" case.

Anybody got a favorite way of removing this? Any "magic" product or system? Or most efficient way to apply "elbow grease"?

Any (serious) assistance greatly appreciated--the ONE thing I don't like about revolvers is cleaning them; only worse thing is a dirty one!

Links to old threads appreciated also!

 

[Vulcan Bob]

This works well for me.
Make sure the cylinder charge holes are dry, they can be dirty wont hurt a thing, scrub em good with a snug fitting dry bronze bore brush and then clean normally. It would seem that using solvent with the bore brush lubricates things a bit and prevents the brush from working against those nasty carbon rings. Oh yeah, after doing this clean the bore brush!

 

[Jimbo357mag]

Mop the chambers with a powder solvent and then let it sit for 10-15 minutes while you clean the other stuff. Then make a couple of passes back and forth with a brass brush soaked in solvent. Follow with moping again and a jag to get rid of everything. Very lightly oil and then pass a clean dry patch through each chamber. Do this after each shooting session.

The powder stains will stay there but there should be no carbon build-up.

btw, I use Hoppe's Elite Gun Cleaner 32 oz Trigger. I pour it in a jar and dip my mops and brushes in it. It does seem to work to prevent build-up in the first place.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/392317

 

[RonEgg]

I have heard that if you size a mag brass, then press it into the cylinder where specials have been fired, it will loosen the resistant stuff. Soaking before hand will help! That "little" bit longer does the trick.

 

[DeletedMember275]

Expand the mag case slightly before you chamber it, and it will work better. At one time, Clymer sold a 'de-lead reamer' for various revolver cartridges that was designed to scrape out and carbon or lead buildup. Some restraint was required, because it would remove steel if used with excessive zeal. I dunno if they're still available or not.

 

[Hugh]

Mop the chambers with a powder solvent and then let it sit for 10-15 minutes while you clean the other stuff. Then make a couple of passes back and forth with a brass brush soaked in solvent. Follow with moping again and a jag to get rid of everything. Very lightly oil and then pass a clean dry patch through each chamber. Do this after each shooting session.

The powder stains will stay there but there should be no carbon build-up.

btw, I use Hoppe's Elite Gun Cleaner 32 oz Trigger. I pour it in a jar and dip my mops and brushes in it. It does seem to work to prevent build-up in the first place.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/392317

Pretty much the same here, although I mop the cylinder face as well and then clean the rest of the revolver. I clean the cylinder last. Nothing like the smell of Hoppe's No. 9 in the afternoon.

I always clean after each shooting session.

 

[croesus]

Lewis Lead Remover. Works on lead and carbon. Best way I've found. Works like a champ.

 

[woodsy]

When one needs to REALLY clean a cylinder, remember that the inside diameter is larger than the bore. Thus, I use a brass brush in .40 or .45 cal., (for a .357 mag. gun) chucked in a battery drill to do all the heavy work.

 

[Chuck 100 yd]

I do it woodsy`s way most of the time. That said, I quit shooting short cases in my guns long ago. Just load light loads in magnum cases and stop having a fouling ring altogether.

 

[Mike Armstrong]

Thanks, guys! I'll try 'em all, starting with the "least invasive' ("soaking") and working up to the drill and .44 brush.

And I'll look into the Lewis Lead Remover, although the fouling isn't lead, or at least the lead comes out easily. The fouling I'm bothered by is much harder than lead. I've tried Montana Extreme Copper Killer. Apparently it ISN'T a "Carbon Killer"!

 

[DLHamblin]

When one needs to REALLY clean a cylinder, remember that the inside diameter is larger than the bore. Thus, I use a brass brush in .40 or .45 cal., (for a .357 mag. gun) chucked in a battery drill to do all the heavy work.

This what I do almost every time, cylinder bores are spotless, no "carbon ring".

 

[Bucks Owin]

As a handloader, my solution is to never have the problem in the first place... :wink:

However I sympathize with those who must shoot factory ammo and the diminished availability of same these days... :?

 

[Boge]

Chuck a BRONZE brush (no stainless steel!!) into a cordless drill and insert into chambers after letting a good solvent soak in them first. Works like a charm.

 

[Hondo44]

I use Slip 2000 from Sportsman's Guide. Comes in a short wide mouth jar. Just drop in the cylinder for 15 minutes and then wipe clean. It's also excellent for cleaning choke tubes and gas pistons on semi autos.

Lewis lead remover uses a brass screen to physically scrub out the bore and chambers. It works well, just more labor intensive.

 

[dwayne]

Chuck a BRONZE brush (no stainless steel!!) into a cordless drill and insert into chambers after letting a good solvent soak in them first. Works like a charm.

Thanks what I do too, Boge. And, your emphasis is spot on -- solvent soak, only bronze brushes, no stainless AND carefully use an oversized brush (like a 44/45 in a 357 chamber).

 

[WESHOOT2]

Flare an empty long case.
Use that as a 'scraper'.