.22lr #1 - do I?

[BlkHawk73]

Have the host - a #1A in .30-06 with the stock cut 1" shorter. Have discussed it via e-mail with the gunsmith that'll do the work. Just need thst extra kick in the pants to send the gun and get this underway. Darn excited as I think it'll be fun little bugger and a perfect one for the boy to start what I hope is a path to the classy #1 line.  
I know, I know there's all those that see it as too heavy for a simple .22lr. Well I guess if all 127# of me can't find the energy, strength and stamina to not get dragged down from whole 8lbs, I best get the walker out and call it a day at 37yo. Not an issue at all.
So...c'mon whatdaya think? I need just a bit more prodding. 

 

[rugerjunkie]

If you have the means to do it and a smith to do it I'd say go for it!! This is something that I,and lots of otbers I'm sure,would love to hear about the whole process from the emails discussing the details to the day you finally get to take it to the range!!

Are you planning on keeping the rifle in the same configuration? Should be one sexy 22 when its done!

 

[BlkHawk73]

If done, it'll remain in #1A configuration. Aside from the bore size and bbl marking, it'll look completely factory.

 

[picketpin]

If it's something you want then buy all meens , go for it.

I have to admit though, I own a crap load of #1s and have the means, smith and the donor rifle I have never been tempted to make one. I know it would look cool look cool with the others but I already own a few decent 22s and can't rationize it (I'm VERY GOOD at rationalizeing guns).
I KNOW it won't shoot any better.

As for the "Build" there are two ways it's done. One is useing the factory links, unaltered and actually relocating the fireing pin in the breach block.. The other method is to modify the links and relocate the point where the breach block locks, thus relocating the relative position of the fireing pin.

Has your smith done one/any before?

Ross

 

[BlkHawk73]

Have a lg handul of #1 already and a bunch of .22's (13 or so 10/22's alone) so it's a just because not a rationalization or need. :lol: Just think it wpuld an interesting result, a nice step from the boy's 10/22's to the larger rifles.
The 'smith does a lot of work on #1's so not concerned about that aspect at all. All new bbl and a sleeve job either which I like. I think a final correspondance and coin flip is coming. It is anrw yr after all. ;)

 

[JFB]

make sure I understand before I coment

1A--has rib and sights, with alex hendry forearm

and you found a smith that ensures he can pull it off for the funds you have. then my recomendation would be
YES

If you don't like It and your price aint too high, I would take it off your hands (BTW, that is a real offer :wink: )

 

[43north]

With a #1A donor? I'd make it a 1S-22-L, with the AH fore, no sights and a slender barrel. But that's me, and it would match my .222 that way!

 

[BlkHawk73]

Not big on no irons. They just lack style and class to me when they don't have 'em. Maybe a #1H withe the .458 bbl profile. 

 

[picketpin]

43 north: If your 222 AH is factory and you don't mind drop me a PM and I can add your serial number to out data base on the #1 Group.

I have 222 AHs serial #365X and #561X

Yours if factory would give us 5 of the estimated 50 or so made.

Ross

 

[roofinspector]

I have a No.1 in 22lr. It is one of my favorite 22lr type rifles, it feels like a rifle. Mine mimics to some degree the No.1B FWIW.

As you know or are finding out, the conversion to rimfire can be done three ways: lower the breechblock via the lifting arm(cut/weld the oem arm or fabricate a new arm), offset the firing pin in the breechblock itself, or use an offset barrel that positions the rim to the centerfire position.

Getting a new breechblock lifting arm out of Ruger without sending in the whole works is a trip, they list it as a restricted part. But what is parted/welded can be restored via welding if ever want to go back to a centerfire. Reworking the breechblock itself looks the best to me cosmetically, but is a harder conversion for most. The offset barrel has not appealed to me yet.

I was thinking that a new barrel would be the best deal, but you said you like irons, and to gunsmiths in general, irons are a hassle to do. Not impossible, but can be costly if you know what I mean. Plugging and sleeving the oem barrel to keep the irons/markings will have a fair amount of labor, so one tends to find that cosmetics probably will cost more than the physcial conversion.

The breechblock lowering via the lifting arm is the easiest to do. Nothing to the work that most gunsmiths can do readily. The ejector mod is not much other than a new hook on an oem ejector, working with a fully supported chamber. You might take some time to choose the reamer.

One might look around for the best deals, some smiths doing a conversion are proud of them. Choose a smith you have confidence in. My plain jane version cost 150 dollars and that was for the barrel.

If I had to do it again, and I might do a lightweight version in 17HMR, I would still use a new barrel. I just think they will shoot the best after all the effort. Not against a nice line job, but the new barrels today are right good.

Some folks like a rifle in rimfire that mimics the centerfire versions closely, guess I am one of them, and finally did the conversion on a No.1.............and still like it.

 

[rugnelli]

This would be cool.

DO IT!

rugnelli

 

[BrianU]

If I had the rifle, funds to spare and a smith that I trusted, I say yes. I read an article about such a conversion and it looked like a good idea. I would prefer a rifle for tree rats that feels like my deer rifle.

If you do this, I would really like to see how it looks and hear about how it performs.