.

$450 out the door is a very good price these days for almost any #1 that's not a basket case. If it doens't look like it's been abused and the bore is good, and you want/need a 243, then buy it.
Rings are easy to find and fairly cheap. The factory stocks are expensive when you can find them used, and they are also not cheap if Ruger (in your home state) replaces them.
LC
 
I'd buy it and take it for a spin. I don't think you will lose any money at that price. Rings are easy enough, but, Nice wood for a No.1 is not cheap.
 
ian03 said:
Is there anything to check out on the lever or the falling block to determine wear? I'll check out the barrel, that should be easy.

I don't really need a .243, I've just always wanted a #1 and a Red label. Finally I will be able to get one. If the fore end wood is loose, is it adjustable to tighten the fit?


ian03,
Work the lever so that the gun is cocked, try to move the block front to back, if there's a lot of movement it needs to be re-fitted. There will be a little movement but you want it to be as little as possible, do not try this with the gun in the fired position as the hammer will be up against the block and it will give you a false sense of the block bein tight.

As to the forend being loose, it is held on by one screw and it should be tight, it is not really adjustable.
Ruger # 1 Guy
 
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Ian,

450 is about an average price for any No.1 when the money is really laid down. There is probably four pages of No.1's on a gun e-site that have higher prices but do not sell. Somewhat dependent on locality, but 450 can purchase a lot of No.1's in person.

Some people will give 400 for the action alone. Really hard to fathom what one could do a No.1 bad that has nice metal appearance and fair/good wood. Guns that go thru fires are really rough.

No.1's can be finicky as to accuracy. Replacement wood is pricey for some reason, although semi inletted sets can be had from several sources if you like wood work, checkering(optional), and finishing.

If you do not like the caliber, the No.1 is very flexible as to update calibers; after market barrels and ejectors are quite available as is wood, and triggers.

Roof
 
Roofinspector is in a special, secret part of the country, where time has stood still with regard to #1 prices.
While it is possible to find them, like you have, at that price, it is the very rare exception rather than the rule for the other 99.5% of this great land.
Most dealers and private owners I have dealt with would just laugh if I offered them $450 for a rifle that they have priced at $600 or $700. That's why I don't have more than I do, which is too many for my own good.
LC
 
Same here (Florida). I haven't seen even one #1 for under $600 in any of the shops around here for many years.
 
A fine rifle............you did well........... :-)

Some things are not about money, it is really about how they make you feel.

Roof
 
I use low rings on my No.1B with a Zeiss Conquest 3-9X40. The Old Burris FullField (not FullField II) scopes work well on the No.1s also.
 
Note, your 26" barreled #1 is the same overall length as your 22" barreled 77.

Mediums rings will probably be fine and predicated on the length of the scope and eye relief you may be able to use lows.

Remember the #1 was introduced in 1967. The rib was designed around scopes of that era and MANY more modern short tubed scope will not work on #1s. The forward bell often hits the front of the rib before you can get the scope back far enough to get correct eye relief. Older longer scopes work best without the use of offset rings etc.

I tend to use Leupolds and older Burris Fullfield MK Is on most of my #1s.

Any #1 in today's market, other than in Roof Town. for under $550 is a bargain if in decent shape. At least around here.

Heck, go on Gun Broker and see how many $450 buy it now #1s you see.

Enjoy.

Ross
 
The No.1 can be fitted with a custom quarter rib that extends over the receiver for more scope movement if required by the user. Of course, the receiver can be drilled/tapped for an additonal rearward base. Some use the Ruger offset rings for their own reasons, still a lot more just use the factory rib as is. One can also machine the factory rib for more positioning.

Height of the scope mounted seems to be about the same way, each user has their own way.

I really doubt that the "buy me now" is an indicator of the state of the No.1 market. Perhaps what the sellers would like it to be. The number of No.1's with any type of bid is perhaps more telling.

Everyone has their own set of numbers they can live with. I really only buy for doners. I personally see no difference in an early red pad No.1 versus a late black pad No.1, from my limited point of view; therefore my blanket view of value/pricing.

I find the joy in the No.1 not in the money exchange but rather in the warmth of the wood, and the lines of the No.1..............

Roof
 
ian03, You did good. That one would have been $700 + tax in the DFW area. Might have barganed it down to 650. Enjoy, jack
 
ian03 said:
Thanks guys.

Looking for some cheap rings now and then it's scope decision time.

Here are a few pictures of scopes I have or had on Rugers.

Top is a 3-9X40 Zeiss. Bottom is a 4X32 Zeiss, both in low rings.
Zeiss001-1.jpg


Burris FullField 3-9X40 low rings. I think the old Burris FullField scopes just look right on a No.1B
R1rings001-1.jpg


Leupold 4-12X40 in medium extended rings.
R1rings002-1.jpg


M77 with a Zeiss 2.5-8X32 in low rings.
Montana2011Hunt048.jpg


Same gun with a Leupold 6X36.
035-1.jpg
 
Gun show this week end. My quest is for old Burris scopes because of the turrent placement. I did not like them in the day for bolt guns, so none survived in my stable. They made a 5X for Browning that would be just about ideal, if only.........Also, I have a Leupold 3.5-10x40 (non-AO,[leaves the front part of the tube a bit longer than AO, so it will slide back an extra half inch or so]) mounted in low Ruger rings.

For roofinspector, Is the custom quarter rib available commercially, or is it a machine shop item?

Thanks, jack
 
Jack,

The quarter rib that I have used in the past is the blank made by Dakota for the Shilen and Douglas tapers 3,4,&5. Search "quarter rib" in either Brownells or Midway as a few sources. Midway offers all 6 tapers metnioned where as Brownells only offers a subset, both are around 70 bucks or so, but sometimes on sale for 60 or so.

The Shilen profile of the shank is longer than the Douglas, I have only used the ribs with Shilen so far, just what I had. If one extends the rib to the rear over the receiver, the extra length comes at shank expense, so just something to keep in mind when doing planning.

The Dakota ribs that I have used; Shilen taper 3 and 4, fit the contour of the as shipped Shilen taper very nicely, but really fit super in one spot one might say. These are blanks, that is the bottom curveatures to the barrel are there but the top has to be machined for the rings or rear sights of the day. The Dakota ribs that I have used, were 1/2 wide; so work well for Talley and Ruger type rings, but the wider Weaver mounts would have some additional work for a submount.

If you have the No.1 book by Clayton, page 86 has such a rib machined for over the receiver with Talley vertical rings. Of course, lots of pictures in the custom no.1 area in this book that show ribs......of all types.

The Dakota rib is nice machineable steel, that blues well. I inquired about other rib tapers at Dakota a few years ago, and they stated then that is the crop, as I wanted one for lighter tapers.

The quarter ribs done pure custom from a billet are fairly labor intensive, hence the difference in price. Pure custom is just that, anything you want, but $ and time; and to find a gunsmith that will spend that time these days......fitting of the rib to the barrel and machining for ring attachment points, not to say perhaps irons as well, can be lots of spent time comparatively speaking.

The Dakota is a nice product at least to me, but is not a direct bolt on.

One can use a Ruger factory No.1B rib as is on a Shilen 4 without much hassle, but in the traditonal factory postioning(only on barrel proper). On this particular application, if one takes off a bit of the Shilen #4 shank, the No.1B forend fits pretty good.

Roof
 
Thanks roof. I may be a little impatient, but the Dakota is all I found at Brownell's. So far, I am happy with the factory Ruger barrels, Would like to get the scope a little farther back with a Leupold 6X preferred. I have tried several scopes on the AH. I could use Ruger extension rings, but they are a little ugly. Today it is sitting in the cradle with a 3,5-10 Leupold in Ruger lows and it seems usable up to about 6X without crawling the stock. I am kind of thick in the neck as well as older and stiff. Stock crawling is no longer comfortable. I really like the idea of creating something that would accept Talley light weight one piece base/ring combo. I know a smith over in Dallas that might take the challenge. If he is interested, his prices are reasonable. If not, his quote will tell you. Thanks again, jack
 
A Leupold 6x36mm works just fine with proper eye relief, and I see nothing wrong with extended or offset rings. Two pictures, check out the custom offsets another member sent to me.

DSCN0281-1.jpg


CustomOffsetrings.jpg


I'm having a set machined a bit higher so that a 8x40mm scope will fit.
 
DavidMc1116, I have the 3.5-10 non-AO on the Rruger still on the bride's dining room table. I walk by once in a while and shoulder the little jewel and I think it is going to work, at least up to about 8-maybe 10 power in shirt sleeves and at least six with a coat. I have extra new rings, so I guess that I will exchange with Ruger for medium double extension, I saw the machined rings earlier when you inquired of them,, I like that look!

I have also noticed that Leupold has gone to real world starting prices on the custom scopes (or else I have looked at so many that the numbers have my brain in overload.) I did find several older Burris Fullfiedds on ebay, but I have yet to turn up any M8 or FXII sixes w/ao anywhere. Still looking. The old Burris were built like a tank and weighed accordingly. I sure hope to keep this one trim. Thanks, jack
 
All I have to do is give more for something than I think it should cost, Then they show up in bunches,,, jack
 
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