Security Six Updated

[magnum0710]

Just wanted to post an update on my Security Six. As alot of you know I ended up with a low back model and ran into some trouble finding grips. I finally found the perfect solution, for myself at least.
Thank you again to everyone who helped along the way I couldn't have did it without you.
While I still plan to finish working on the wood stocks I got from RoninPA I finally found a way to get the rubber Pachmayr grips to work with very little modification. I had to do alot of digging but you can get the Pachmayr grips to fit a low back Security Six.
A member on another forum had a low back that came with some "ill fitting" small Presentation Grips. I asked if I could buy them since he hated the grips and he actually gave them to me. They weren't a perfect fit but they did fit and they fit my hand much better than the factory stocks.
While researching Pachmayr grips working on low back models I came across a thread where a couple of guys made the Pachmayr Gripper work.
There is one catch, you have to take a punch and punch out the grip panel dowel on the bottom corner of the frame, the little locator pin at the bottom of this picture.

I wouldn't even call it a modification since it can be put back into the frame if ever needed and there is no damage done. Once you remove that pin the Pachmayr Gripper grips will fit on a low back 150 series Security Six. In fact they're almost a perfect fit! There is a little bit of extra material at the top of the grips but it doesn't bother me at all, otherwise they fit perfect.
I went to the range today to see which grips I liked better. I decided to go with the Gripper grips since they fit my hand better and made shooting much easier. The Presentation grips were good too but not as good as the Grippers. These were the small Presentation grips too, while I dont know forsure im thinking the Large Presentation grips will work just like the Grippers did. Now I just have to restock my supply of 357, im down to 50 rounds

 

[magnum0710]

Here's the Grippers since they didn't fit on my first post

 

[rugerguy]

you got it, , nice looking and thats what we had to do back then, as NO ONE made 'aftermarket' grips for the early 150s except Jay Scott I believe,or "Herrets Shooting Star" so one had to improvise' at least the 150s was not around that long and not a lot of them came to or through our shops,had to "make do" again, good job
....and yes you can alter the top ,back with a 'hot iron' and remold,/reshape that top back edge,,,neatness counts..

 

[magnum0710]

you got it, , nice looking and thats what we had to do back then, as NO ONE made 'aftermarket' grips for the early 150s except Jay Scott I believe,or "Herrets Shooting Star" so one had to improvise' at least the 150s was not around that long and not a lot of them came to or through our shops,had to "make do" again, good job
....and yes you can alter the top ,back with a 'hot iron' and remold,/reshape that top back edge,,,neatness counts..

I didn't want to actually modify the frame due to value concerns. Apparently my Six is pretty rare, stainless with a 151 sn but with the low back 150 series grip. Punching the pin out caused no damage at all and I can put it back in if I ever need to.
Since we're here, when I was shooting today I noticed tiny specs of jacket material on my hand, just a little bit and it looked like glitter almost. Is this normal?
It's only ever done it with this one type of ammo, I noticed it before with the same ammo and its never done it with any other ammo I've used.

 

[rugerguy]

yes it could be from the plating ( jacketing) of some ammo, if you plan on shooting it a lot or often, would not hurt to open the forcing cone ever so slightly ,some stainless guns this "lead in" edge is sharp, I would be more concerned if it did this with all types of 38 or 357 ammo ( shave lead they call it) double action revolvers have to be "flexible', head space and latteral movement, enough to allow the bullet jump from cylinder to barrel that why you can "see/feel" a bit of wiggle in the cylinder. In the old days we checked the barrel /cylinder alignment with a range rod that all was aligned when in "battery" (hammer down, forward, the trigger all the way back, as when its "fired".....did this on all six (in the case of the smaller revolvers,5...) chambers , if you heard a "tick" ( nick) of the rod going into any of the chambers due to a misalignment, then the cylinder rachet/pawl, need adjustment ( fitting) Again its gotta be bad and with any and all types of ammo,,,some of that fouling "gas blowback" is simply that the nature of the beast...why folks need to wear shooting glasses,,,,safety first.
good luck and enjoy your nice find........

 

[magnum0710]

yes it could be from the plating ( jacketing) of some ammo, if you plan on shooting it a lot or often, would not hurt to open the forcing cone ever so slightly ,some stainless guns this "lead in" edge is sharp, I would be more concerned if it did this with all types of 38 or 357 ammo ( shave lead they call it) double action revolvers have to be "flexible', head space and latteral movement, enough to allow the bullet jump from cylinder to barrel that why you can "see/feel" a bit of wiggle in the cylinder. In the old days we checked the barrel /cylinder alignment with a range rod that all was aligned when in "battery" (hammer down, forward, the trigger all the way back, as when its "fired".....did this on all six (in the case of the smaller revolvers,5...) chambers , if you heard a "tick" ( nick) of the rod going into any of the chambers due to a misalignment, then the cylinder rachet/pawl, need adjustment ( fitting) Again its gotta be bad and with any and all types of ammo,,,some of that fouling "gas blowback" is simply that the nature of the beast...why folks need to wear shooting glasses,,,,safety first.
good luck and enjoy your nice find........

Honestly I do think it's the ammo, while I was cleaning it today a little shred of lead came out when I brushed the bore but that was it. I cleaned the forcing cone and the area around it really well, I shined a flashlight from behind the cylinder and checked each chamber and they all seem to line up perfect. The b/c gap does seem to be tight but I don't have a feeler guage so I can't tell you what the gap is exactly. The gap isn't too big I'll say that.
There is little to no play and the cylinder locks up tight, virtually no end shake either.
I highly doubt it's a timing issue and after cleaning the forcing cone there doesn't seem to be any erosion or anything. I can't see the inside too well but the outside looks good. The revolver is really accurate too. I'm 99.99% sure it's the ammo at this point.
I'd like to check it further for misalignment just to be sage but the closest thing I have is a bore brush and cleaning rod so I don't think that would really work.
Maybe I'll have a gunsmith check it out. The guy that runs my local range might be able to go over it he's pretty knowledgeable.

 

[rugerguy]

sounds good and if he should offer it as a "courtesy" to maybe look at it when you tell him about the ammo??? did you get that ammo from them??? and so forth,, no need to pay any gunsmith a "bench" charge or such to check it out.......and as for any "erosion" it would easy enough to spot, most cannot tell or "see" a proper forcing cut/angle......bad stuff ,jumps out at you ( erosion, cracks, fouling, etc..... good luck

 

[magnum0710]

sounds good and if he should offer it as a "courtesy" to maybe look at it when you tell him about the ammo??? did you get that ammo from them??? and so forth,, no need to pay any gunsmith a "bench" charge or such to check it out.......and as for any "erosion" it would easy enough to spot, most cannot tell or "see" a proper forcing cut/angle......bad stuff ,jumps out at you ( erosion, cracks, fouling, etc..... good luck

No I got the ammo from a different shop but the guy that runs the range is really awesome so I'm pretty sure he'd check it out.
I checked out the forcing cone a little better with a flashlight when I got home, it actually looks really good. I had someone else look at it too. They agreed it was the ammo. There was a good bit of fouling but I got most of it off. I doused the area around the forcing cone in hoppes and let it sit for a day then hit it with a scotch brite bad. At this point I'm just going to stay away from that particular ammo. It was only a tiny bit on my hand, it didn't fly into my face or anything. I might try it one more time now that I got the fouling off but I'll probably just find something better at this point.