. . . and then the real trick is to get the pin re-inserted so it doesn't show.There is a pin that has to be driven out. It's the recoil shield cross pin. Those pins are HARD to find sometimes because they are polished with the frame & not easily found. Removing the firing pin, the spring & recoil shield is not often done.
Once that pin is out,, then the recoil shield, firing pin, and spring can be removed.
Oh so true!
thanks for your response. I got the pin out but the firing pin and spring would no drive out. I tried until I gave up and put the pin back in and just forgot about removing the pin.. . . and then the real trick is to get the pin re-inserted so it doesn't show.
Do you have to drive the pin out from the firing pin side or should it all just fall out after removing the pin that has to be driven out. I took that pin out and nothing about the firing pin assembly would budge.There is a pin that has to be driven out. It's the recoil shield cross pin. Those pins are HARD to find sometimes because they are polished with the frame & not easily found. Removing the firing pin, the spring & recoil shield is not often done.
Once that pin is out,, then the recoil shield, firing pin, and spring can be removed.
I didn't tap it out but I was trying to from the firing pin side. The hammer channel looked too big to go through the firing pin hole.How were you trying to drive out the firing pin? It has to be tapped out by tapping it from the hammer channel.
Did you use any penetrate oils to loosen things a bit?
WOW.... I never realized this...... THANKS for this info; someday I may have to remove one and would have spent the day slamming the crap out of it from the WRONG SIDE....Look closely at the parts schematic. The cup, (actually the recoil shield for the firing pin,) is pushed in from inside the frame window. It has to be driven back out by tapping it with a brass punch inside the hammer channel.