Removing Scratches From SS

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sjs

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I have a scratch on my SBH Hunter. With normal stainless steel I can remove a scratch with Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish. But my Hunter has a satin stainless finish and I am not sure if I can try to remove the scratch without removing the satin finish. Anyone know how to deal with this?
 
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all depends on how deep the scratch is...must remove it first then blend in the surrounding area with a 3 M Scotch Brite pad, different grits ( colors ) act differently but it really is how hard you apply the pressure and go in the proper direction of the guns original finish......quite simple and easy to do.....
 

rallye_red

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Ditto on the Scotch Brite pads. I had a friend with a single six with a scratch on his revolver. The Scotch Brite pad did the trick. As mentioned above, this depends on how deep the scratch is. Just google search "Remove scratch stainless revolver" and many things pop up. Its nice reading other people's experiences. Good luck.
 

sjs

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Thanks very much guys. I have the tan scotch brite pad. I'll google it and give it a go.
 

SteelBlue

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First use Scotch Brite. If scratch is too deep, use wet/dry sand paper, working progressively finer down to about 320 grit. Finish with gray Scotch Brite. It is said to replicate the brushed stainless best. I have used this method and it works well. Doing the final with gray Scotch Brite use very light pressure. Gray Scotch Brite is available on Amazon.
 

hittman

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When you say "satin finish" do you mean that dull gray coating they put on a few?

If so, scotch bride pads will simply remove that finish. I do not know any way to repair those.

With the factory brushed finish stainless, most of us basically cover up a scratch with the scotch bride pad.To truly remove a scratch you'll have to polish it smooth and start over with the pads.
 
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I do not think the Ruger Hunters had any sort of "coating" on the stainless, the "target gray" models was a totally different finish, as well as some guns they used a bead blast , more satin, in any spots to keep the glare ( reflections) down...like on top of ribs ...in that case you tape off the sides, glass beads with very LOW pressure and again, can blend in.....gotta actually "see" just what the application, the scratches, etc, to determine the proper course of action.......been polishing Ruger stainless guns since they came out in the early 70's....as well as S&W and later in the stainless,brushed finishes on the Colts.
Early Ruger stainless castings very often pretty bad, porous....... 8) :roll:
 

sjs

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:roll: Can't figure out how to post a picture but it is a finish that is subdued a bit compared to my GP100 or my S&W 629. It is the finish that I am worried about. I can polish it out but I don't want to ruin the finish.

It is not like the target gray or the bead blasted that I have seen before. It is on the top rib, just forward of the rear scope ring base (almost as though some idiot was tightening a scope ring and slipped with the screwdriver).
 
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I sanded these grips on this gripframe to get a perfect fit,, finish with 800 grit and then with the grips off used the fine scotch bright pad and it looks like new, can't tell it from the rest of the gun in any way.

But NO the polish will make it look like a nickle finish, if its a deep scratch start with 320 and sand no more than necessary in the direction the brushed finish is in, the go to 600,, 800,, then scotch bright, I'd by a couple grits med, fine, extra fine, I have used the extra fine to polish 6mm PPC brass between relays in a match to keep em look'n puuurdy. always good to have a little of each on hand.
 

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