jacketed vs all lead bullets

[triggerpull]

I'm new to single-action revolvers and just got a super blackhawk hunter in 44 mag. I've only shot it a couple of times but notice that it seems to like to spray lead residue out the cylinder gap--making the front of the cylinder quite a challenge to clean (I'm assuming it's coating the bore as well). I'm a hand-loader and have scored some Hornady and Nosler jacketed bullets as well as a big box of Barry all-lead unjacketed flat-top bullets. Do the copper jacketed bullets tend to leave less residue (or more) than the unjacked all-lead bullets? My intention is to eventually make this a deer-hunter; mostly close-in still hunting, probably 50-75 yds max distance so I'm thinking of using reduced sized loads, keeping them in the 180 to 240 gr range. Advice appreciated.

 

[GunnyGene]

I'm new to single-action revolvers and just got a super blackhawk hunter in 44 mag. I've only shot it a couple of times but notice that it seems to like to spray lead residue out the cylinder gap--making the front of the cylinder quite a challenge to clean (I'm assuming it's coating the bore as well). I'm a hand-loader and have scored some Hornady and Nosler jacketed bullets as well as a big box of Barry all-lead unjacketed flat-top bullets. Do the copper jacketed bullets tend to leave less residue (or more) than the unjacked all-lead bullets? My intention is to eventually make this a deer-hunter; mostly close-in still hunting, probably 50-75 yds max distance so I'm thinking of using reduced sized loads, keeping them in the 180 to 240 gr range. Advice appreciated.

I have a .41 and much prefer not having to deal with lead fouling, so I only use jacketed.

 

[Nowata]

Frankly, dude, this subject can get very involved. You will get replies from people with many, many years of reloading both lead and copper-coated bullets. Loading copper coated bullets (to me) is much easier, but wide meplat lead bullets(i.e., Keith style) "kill" better. My advice...if you choose copper jacketed bullets, do not "over-power" them. The Hornady 240gr. XTP is designed to have an impact velocity of 850-1100fps. If the impact velocity is faster, the bullet will open up too early, resulting in less penetration. Ya want 2 holes. Too often guys will max that bullet out at 1400-1500fps, and complain about poor penetration. The bullet will end up being quarter sized, but penetration is not complete. If your revolver(I shoot a Bisley Hunter) can group group good with a MV of 1100fps, then you have a great 60yrd. whitetail killer. Frankly, my whitetail load is a 260gr. WFNGC at near 1100...I take double shoulder shots, and have yet to recover a bullet. BUT, the lead bullets require some messing with. It might take a whole summer of tinkering, to find a lead bullet that groups good in your gun, but it will be worth it. I refer you to the Bear Tooth Bullets website, and Marshall Stanton's excellent articles.

 

[Nowata]

don't use the little bullets for hunting...minimum 240gr. for whitetails and hogs

 

[triggerpull]

Great advice--just what I was hoping for, thanks.

 

[contender]

Welcome to the Forum!
As noted, you will get a lot of info on this subject.
I want to address your leading issues if I may. If you are reloading, (and I assume you are from what you posted,) I have a few questions. Have you got the proper sized bullet for your bore? Are your lead bullets hard or soft? What velocities are you pushing them at?
I ask these questions because using a good quality cast lead slug that is matched to your gun shouldn't spray lead anywhere. And it shouldn't lead up your bore etc. If you try & push a lead slug that is too soft at higher velocities, you will get leading. AND you can get leading by pushing a too hard slug at very slow velocities.
Many, many people use lead slugs to hunt with and have taken truly big game with them. About 4 years ago, I was on an elk hunt with some other Forum friends. I watched a 41 mag lead wide flat nosed slug anchor an elk from 73 yds. And, I watched another one in 45 Colt drop DRT at 90+ yds, lead wfn. I saw where a 44 mag shooting lead slugs have all the slugs pass completely through an elk. Range was between 75 & 90 yds.
My point being is that all of these elk suffered complete pass through, killing shots from lead slugs out of handguns. Two of them dropped in their tracks. And, all 3 of these gun bullet combos had a few things in common. Lead flat wide nosed slugs, travelling 1100-1200 fps. All were on the heavier side for their caliber. None of them suffer any leading issues from shooting such slugs.
I want to suggest you go to www.castboolits.com to their forum. There is a ton of excellent info on shooting lead ammo in handguns that can possibly help you determine why your gun & bullet combo is experiencing leading issues.

 

[s4s4u]

don't use the little bullets for hunting...minimum 240gr. for whitetails and hogs

What he said ^^^^

 

[6gun]

I'm new to single-action revolvers and just got a super blackhawk hunter in 44 mag. I've only shot it a couple of times but notice that it seems to like to spray lead residue out the cylinder gap--making the front of the cylinder quite a challenge to clean (I'm assuming it's coating the bore as well). I'm a hand-loader and have scored some Hornady and Nosler jacketed bullets as well as a big box of Barry all-lead unjacketed flat-top bullets. Do the copper jacketed bullets tend to leave less residue (or more) than the unjacked all-lead bullets? My intention is to eventually make this a deer-hunter; mostly close-in still hunting, probably 50-75 yds max distance so I'm thinking of using reduced sized loads, keeping them in the 180 to 240 gr range. Advice appreciated.

The residue issue your having is perfectly normal for a revolver, residue is caused by both the bullet and the powder, yes a jacketed bullet will shoot cleaner but you may also be shooting a dirty powder you didn't say what your using, I use Winchester 296 for 44 mag it's very clean burning, what ever you use your gun will get dirty, but using clean components will greatly reduce the mess left behind, for cleaning the front of your cylinder use a "lead cloth" your gun dealer should have it in the cleaning section, both cast and jacketed bullets will kill a deer your choice what you use.

 

[s4s4u]

The Hornady 240gr. XTP is designed to have an impact velocity of 850-1100fps. If the impact velocity is faster, the bullet will open up too early, resulting in less penetration.

I have found the opposite to be true. I don't shoot a 44, but shoot the 250 XTP in my 45 Colt and tested that bullet in a common media at different velocitites. The bullet on the left, left the muzzle @ 1050 fps and penetrated less than the bullet on the right @ 1,400 fps. The faster bullet not only expanded more and penetrated further, it also left a much more impressive "wound channel" than the slower one. YMMV

 

[Fletchman]

I shoot a 44 mag Redhawk. The bullet I use more than anything else is the Hornady 240 grain XTP hp.
I agree with "Blackhawk". My handloads are hitting about 1480fps and they perform beautifully on deer.
I havent recovered any bullets but the exit wound is pretty big. If the deer hasn't dropped in its tracks they havent gone far. If you plan on shooting a lot there are some great hardcast out there. I stick with the hornady as they hold together after impact, have been available and are not that expensive.

 

[Chuck 100 yd]

You say you are a handloader. Are you a caster also? If so and you work up a good cast bullet load you will most likely not go back to jacketed bullets. If you don`t or wont spend the time to work up cast loads you are better off just finding the factory jacketed bullet load you like and that shoots best for you and stay with it.
Either one will do what a hunting bullet is supposed to do.

 

[y2k-fxst]

I want to suggest you go to http://www.castboolits.com to their forum. There is a ton of excellent info on shooting lead ammo in handguns that can possibly help you determine why your gun & bullet combo is experiencing leading issues.

You beat me to the punch suggesting castboolits. Great site, with plenty of knowledge.

Use the search function, you should find all the information on molding, hardening, and loading cast lead rounds.

 

[Three44s]

If you are getting a lot of residue at your cylinder throat/throat of forcing cone junction you may have a rough forcing cone (not hard to remedy) or your chambers and barrel are not lined up (not easy to fix).

Lead boolit shooting is very misunderstood. Lots of myth and hyperbola surrounding it!

I have been a loader since the '75 and a caster since the early '90's.

It saves a LOT of money and gives me a new dynamic to handloading and shooting.

I'll second what Contender posted: Join Cast Boolits dot com if you are serious about enquiring into the sport/hobby. And, if you get more serious ....... buy a handbook from Beartooth bullets that costs just $15 postage paid the last time I checked. This handbook is not about casting but rather about lead bullet fitament to your gun and vice versa. It's a very good read.

Basically, you need to prepare your gun for lead and create lead bullets that fit your gun and load regime you chose.

For a really good plinking slug look at the Lee tumble lube series of molds for a starting point. Lee (mule snot) liquid alox and those resultant microgrooved bullets get generally shot without further sizing.

It's a cheap, easy and practical way to get into a casting without spending a fortune and you'll use those plinkers you can keep casting yourself for the rest of your handloading days on earth.

Best regards

Three 44s

 

[triggerpull]

I'm not sure what too much residue is--at first I thought the smooth SS finish had simply worn off--it's very flat and there's no pitting whatsoever. But this is a new animal for me--should the cylinder face be as shiny chrome-like as the rest of the gun's exterior?

I do not hand-cast my own bullets--not yet anyway. My reloading bench is already stacked up like O'hare airport with more than a half dozen rifle calibers on deck for loading! : ) If what you guys are saying "casting your own bullets will enable you to get better accuracy than you can with any factory-made" well then, count me in (eventually)! Thanks for all the useful tips.

 

[s4s4u]

"casting your own bullets will enable you to get better accuracy than you can with any factory-made"

That is debateable.

The hazing on the face of the cylinder is just a right of passage, it shows that you are "using" it. I never worried too much about it but there are chemicals that clean it up nicely.

 

[Jimbo357mag]

I have on hand all three types and also shoot all three types but since I don't cast, for me it is a mater of cost and convenience. Jacketed bullets are the most expensive. Lead bullets are less expensive but require a lot more work to keep the guns clean. (yes there are people that get 'no leading' after they have found exactly the right combo of hardness and lube and velocity and throat size) Copper plated bullets fall in the middle and are my main shooting/target fodder. They are less expensive than jacketed and just as clean. The only drawback is they can't take full magnum velocities and they don't perform well for hunting or self defense.

 

[WESHOOT2]

Clean your stainless steel guns using a KLEEN-BORE (or similar) LEAD-AWAY cloth.

 

[CraigC]

Lead bullets are less expensive but require a lot more work to keep the guns clean.

When did this happen? I use up several thousand cast bullets every year and can't remember the last time I had a "leading problem". Use the correct diameter and hardness and life is good.

 

[Chuck 100 yd]

What CraigC said + 1

 

[jgt]

One of the things not mentioned so far, is not to mix loads using lead bullets with loads using jacketed bullets. The barrel should be cleaned squeeky clean after shooting jacketed bullets before shooting lead bullets and vice versa. If you want the best performance.
If your cylinder is out of alignment and is the cause of lead spitting, it will also spit jacket material from jacketed bullets so be sure to wear shooting glasses. Also I would not shoot with others in close proximity until you solve the problem.