Hi I just picked up a Winchester 1892 model lever gun that the stock is almost black from oil and dirt how do I clean it without taking off the original finish I don't want to refinish it just clean it up
Gramps
Gramps
How do you clean up a 100 year old stock
- Thread starter GRAMPS 51
- Start date
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Selena
Hunter
GRAMPS 51 said:
Have you tried dry corn meal? The oil tends to dissolve organic material and the starches act like a polish.
contender
Ruger Guru
Ballistol.
My gunsmith recently cleaned several firearms that came out of a fire,,,,,! Looking good now!
My gunsmith recently cleaned several firearms that came out of a fire,,,,,! Looking good now!
GunnyGene
Hawkeye
The "original" finish is probably just boiled linseed oil, which will turn dark over that much time. After you clean it you'll need to re-apply several coats to keep the wood from drying out and cracking. Keep in mind that linseed is not really a finish in the modern sense. It only fills the pores to keep the wood from drying out. It is not a protective finish, no matter how much or how often you apply it. Other finishes of that era would include wax, shellac, and other alcohol soluble substances, but that's about it. Phenolic and alkyd resins weren't invented until the 1920's, and polyurethane in the '30's, so it's unlikely your rifle finish is either of those.
Enigma
Hunter
Try wiping it down with plain old mineral spirits, from the hardware store. That will remove a tremendous amount of dirt, oil, and general crap, but it shouldn't harm the finish. As stated, you should apply some BLO or Tung Oil afterwards to prevent the stock from drying out. Another good product is Teak Oil, which contains both BLO and Tung Oil.
After you get it clean try some good ole Butchers paste wax will help keep
it from picking up more oils and dirt. With heavy use it will need to be done
again on occasion as it will wear off. ps
it from picking up more oils and dirt. With heavy use it will need to be done
again on occasion as it will wear off. ps
I agree with using 'mineral spirits' and if you can find "natural" made, not man made ( chemical) have NO idea what the difference is, not a chemist, but was told many years ago by a chemist, gun smith, friend of ours who is long gone, rest his soul........ :wink:
GunnyGene
Hawkeye
You want to be careful with mineral spirits or other liquids. They may just dissolve the crud and wick it deeper into the wood. I'd suggest using a thin plastic scraper, such as an old credit card, to scrape off as much as you can first.
cadillo
Blackhawk
Minnwax Furniture Refinisher. Read the label, I think that you will be convinced. I have used it to clean up several dozen stocks prior to refinishing. The stuff is very mild, and actually good for the wood fibers. I use it with nitrile gloves and a Scotchbrite pad. Once done, the wood will be raw again, and in need of whatever finish you have decided upon.
Last week, on a 110 yo. LC Smith ten guage, I cleaned the stock with full strength Murphys Oil soap...rinsed quickly with water which didn't hurt anything, but the finish was uneven and mostly gone. The gun was not collector grade, just a sentimental family heirloom. Finish came off well with Zinsser Strip Fast Power Strip spray...Murphy's followed that again.
Park's Furniture Refinisher was then used, containing acetone, ethyl alcohol, methyl alcohol and tolulol....made a slurry in a small glass jar to about the consistency of pancake batter. The dry component is "whiting", powdered calcium carbonate which is chalk. Whiting is hard to find but available through Amazon. I got mine from a stained glass shop.
Warm the wood before applying with heat gun or oven. This is for bringing out the gun oil. Set it a warm place after, and the white powder will turn brown as the gun oil comes up to the surface. Repeat again in the remaining darker areas until the overall color looks even.
The boiled linseed oil finish will be gone by then so remove the dents with wet t-shirt and a medium heat dry clothes iron, leave the gouges for historical reasons and attempt a refinish and sheen appropriate to the gun and period.
Park's Furniture Refinisher was then used, containing acetone, ethyl alcohol, methyl alcohol and tolulol....made a slurry in a small glass jar to about the consistency of pancake batter. The dry component is "whiting", powdered calcium carbonate which is chalk. Whiting is hard to find but available through Amazon. I got mine from a stained glass shop.
Warm the wood before applying with heat gun or oven. This is for bringing out the gun oil. Set it a warm place after, and the white powder will turn brown as the gun oil comes up to the surface. Repeat again in the remaining darker areas until the overall color looks even.
The boiled linseed oil finish will be gone by then so remove the dents with wet t-shirt and a medium heat dry clothes iron, leave the gouges for historical reasons and attempt a refinish and sheen appropriate to the gun and period.
