GP100 Rear Sight Cross Pin edging out under recoil

[AZRuger]

I got a new GP100, 4". It had some scratches on the muzzle. I took a pic posted here and got great advice. Took it out, and it's been awesome! Really accurate. I've now put 190 rounds through it. I have only taken her shooting twice. 100 Blazer Brass 158 gr. JHP, 40 Speer 125 gr. Gold Dot, and 50 Rem UMC 125 gr. SJHP. All have been very accurate. I put 100 rounds through it this morning. When I was 2/3rs through my shooting session I leveled the revolver to shoot another six rounds and noticed the rear sight cross pin sticking out the left side of the gun! It was about 1/2 way out. I bring a bunch of tools in my range bag. I got out the rubber mallet and tapped it back in. I shot about 20 more rounds. No issues with accuracy, but the pin started backing out to the left again. Not nearly as much as before, but it did move. I didn't notice this on my first range trip with it.

How do I fix this? Do I need to send back to Ruger? Should I get a new rear sight cross pin from. numrich and install?

 

[NewportNewsMike]

No need to send it back to Ruger or to buy new parts just yet.

You need one of two (or there may even be more!) tricks to make the pin stay seated. Both of my suggestions have worked for me, and both involve SLIGHTY bending or mis-forming the pin so that it is better retained in its hole.

#1 - Very gently mash (flatten) the end of the pin with a pair of pliers, or with a hammer and hard surface Your are trying to make the diameter a little larger so that the pin stays seated. It does not take much to hold it.

#2 - Put a SMALL bend in the pin by holding about 1/3 of it in vise (or in the jaws of a pair of pliers) and SLIGHTY bending the other end to put a SMALL kink in the pin which will make it fit tighter. Again, it does not take much to get it to fit better.

Whichever of these you choose, it should do what you are looking for - a pin that stays in place better!

 

[Chuck 100 yd]

Mine did that too. I also have had other Rugers with the same issue.
I push the pin out with a heavy paper clip wire and leave the wire in to keep the parts in place. Then I lay the pin on a piece of hard steel (Anvil/vise) ,use a small hammer and punch to just flatten the last 1/16" or so of one end of the pin. No need to flatten it very much,just enough to make it a tight fit in the hole. Tap the pin back in,non modified end first.
It wont work it`s way out again and the repair is invisible.

 

[Bud0505]

I had a similiar problem with my Lc9. Hammer pin was moving to the left. A drop of blue locktite solved the problem.

 

[The Blackhawk Kid]

I replaced the pin with a roll pin. I also have used Loc-tite. I even replaced a couple friends guns with a rear Bowen with good results, too. BHK

 

[WESHOOT2]

I shortened the pins (have a pair), then drove it back in, and peened each side's hole slightly.

 

[Mobuck]

I'd try loktite before damaging any parts.

 

[Mr. S]

I've had this happen on most of my Ruger's. I have used the same methods as everyone else to correct the problem. Most of the time, I tap the pin half-way out and put a drop of blue loctite on it and the tap it back in. So far, that has worked every time for me.

Rick

 

[Deadeye]

I had a similiar problem with my Lc9. Hammer pin was moving to the left. A drop of blue locktite solved the problem.

Thats how I fixed mine.....

 

[GP100man]

Tap it 1/2 way out & bend ever so lightly , tap it back in .

GP

 

[mustang99]

The bend method is my preferred method. The hole straightens is back out and keeps everything tight, but not so tight you couldn't easily tap it our for adjustment or cleaning or whatever. I don't like to flatten one end, especially on blued guns because of the potential of a sharp edge being created. But I am not gentle enough with my tools, so maybe that's why!

 

[DPris]

Perennial question, and the absolute simplest method that's worked perfectly for me for over 30 years is to just tap the pin slightly sideways along the frame (STILL IN THE FRAME) when it walks out far enough with a small hammer (either end, wood or metal) or the handle of a screwdriver (to avoid scratching the frame) and then tap it back in its hole flush.

A very slight bend is all it needs, takes longer to dig out the tool than it does to fix the problem, no mess, no vice, no glue, no peening, extremely quick & easy.
None of my pins on several Rugers have ever budged again after doing this.

Every time this question comes up I'm amazed anew at the complicated processes people go through to fix such a simple fix.
Denis

 

[mustang99]

It's what's done at "the factory". Not that I could possible know that.

 

[DPris]

Returning a Ruger to the factory for correction of such a minor problem is beyond silly, but some people do.
Ruger, of course, will take the simplest route, and that happens to be it.
Denis

 

[WESHOOT2]

I would only note that hole-edge peening is final.......

 

[Pal Val]

I won't do anything to the gun's frame when a tap on the pin with a brass hammer will fix the problem. I also don't go around swatting flies with a framing hammer.

 

[Laserbait]

I just use a drop of loctite on one side. Works like a champ, and completely reversible.

 

[Chuck 100 yd]

A 12 ga. works way better than a framing hammer.

 

[GP100man]

For the peskier 1s I use grits loaded over shotcards in 357 , it won1t even ruffle the paint !!

 

[AZRuger]

Thanks all for the input and advice. I've got a two-headed mallet that has rubber on one end, and plastic on the other. Perfect for jobs like these. On Sunday, I tapped out the pin half way. I used pliers to bend the pin slightly. Put a dab of loctite down the pinhole, and coated the pin with loctite. I tapped the pin back in, and wiped off the excess.

I'll have to take her out to the range soon and see if it works.