Cleaning the SP101

[AcridSaint]

Hi Folks - I'm hoping someone can help me out with getting my SP101 "clean". Since the first time I shot my SP101, I haven't been able to get all of the carbon deposits off of it. I have it on the cylinder face, somewhat on the flutes, the forcing cone area and the inside of the top strap. This is my first stainless gun - not very stainless!

Anyhow, I know some is to be expected on the cylinder face and the top strap, but my gun is starting to look awfully used for only having ~500 rounds through it. I have tried soaking in CLP and also in Simple Green. I've scrubbed with a toothbrush and even a brass brush with no luck. It doesn't affect the function of the weapon, but I do like to keep my firearms clean and I'm also worried that it might affect the resale value of it. I've seen other used Rugers that don't seem to have as much visible deposits/burning.

Any help would be appreciated!

 

[maxpress]

http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=84830

its being talked about here quite a bit

 

[CanonLyles]

We'll skip all the drama I was part of... LOL

A plain, red #2 pencil eraser works good. Like the ones you used in grade school. Just keep rubbing.

 

[wixedmords]

You should be able to get pretty much everything with Hoppes and a brush AcridSaint. I can see needing to let Hoppes soak in a bit before hitting the hard spots with a brush, but you should be able to get pretty much everything at that point. Let the chemical do the work, let it soak in.

Another tool that you will need is a "Lead Out" cloth. A small piece works fantastic around the forcing cone and on the front of the cylinder. If you wrap a bore brush with a piece of the Lead Out cloth you can get the hard gunk out of each chamber of the cylinder. All I've ever needed is the brush/Hoppes/Lead Out cloth.

This is the lead out cloth. You can cut it into pieces.

http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/23632-1.html

You can get it nearly anywhere, you don't have to get it at Cheaper than Dirt.

You'll get a handle on it. Good luck.

 

[ranger1]

I use Birchwood Casey Lead Remover and Polishing Cloth to remove the burn rings and clean the forcing cone. Works great for me.

 

[jpickar]

What ever you can't get with a normal cleaning with a brass bore brush and patches leave it alone. This compulsive/obsessive disorder of having to have your gun spotless every time after you shoot it is a waste of time. And over cleaning can damage a gun more than shooting.

That said, when you are ready to sell use the lead free cloth and all will be bright and shiny again.

I spent more time with the wife and kids and enjoyed the benefits of the time spent.

John

 

[CanonLyles]

Forgot to mention, use the eraser after general scrubbing (Hoppe's, brush, wipe). I use some Break-Free to get the Hoppes residue off quickly, not much. Mine's not perfect, but it looks better than before I used the eraser. It's gray-ish instead of soot-black. LOL

 

[45flattop]

I use Birchwood Casey Lead Remover and Polishing Cloth to remove the burn rings and clean the forcing cone. Works great for me.

Just remember to keep that lead away cloth WELL AWAY from any
blued guns or you'll be making a trip to the gunsmith to have them
reblued but they are great on stainless.

 

[ranger1]

Good point, I should have added that comment. :!:

 

[hittman]

http://www.proshotproducts.com/

https://www.proshotproducts.com/product ... f204876df1

Lead Clean Cloth
[LCC] $4.65

** Do NOT use on Blued or Nickel Finished firearms.

This treated cloth is ideal for removal of lead & caarbon from the face of cylinders or muzzles. Cut into patches, this cloth is excellent for removal of powder, lead, copper, and plastic fouling.

 

[AcridSaint]

Hi Folks, thanks for all of the replies. I've got some no. 9 here, so I'll give it a whirl tomorrow. I'm most concerned with the outside of the cylinder, I do understand that I won't be able to easily get all of it off of the face. If results with no.9 aren't satisfactory, I'll try and pick up one of the cloth jobs.

Thank you again.

 

[pisgah]

If you really want to get ALL of the carbon off the front of a stainless cylinder, get yourself something like Brasso, Mother's Mag Polish, Flitz or any other micro-abrasive polish intended for metal like brass and silver. A tiny dab on a rag, and a few seconds of rubbibg with your cloth-wrapped fingertip, and the carbon will vanish.

 

[n4rod]

Another product I've been using since the late 1970's is "Never Dull." Kind of mineral spirits and cotton cloth, with a few other proprietary chemicals thrown in. Haven't used it on blued guns, but on stainless guns, knife blades, brass lamp fixtures, and a few military medals. Cleans them like new.

Here's the link.

http://www.nevrdull.com/index.html

N4rod

 

[Dregg]

I use "Flitz" and my stainless guns come out shiny and new.

 

[GhosT]

AcridSaint,
Another that would recommend "Flitz".


" This is my first stainless gun - not very stainless!"

No Stainless steel gun is truly stainless.
They have to mix the metals to make both function and durability work.

I traded in a stainless Colt Python ...for a stainless GP100.
It couldn't handle heavy hand loads.

But that,very cool stainless PYTHON...Rusted worse than a blued gun.
Ruger's Stainless metal...JMHO...way better.

All my revolvers are RUGER's now,including a SP101......
Never sweated the carbon deposits,after cleaned them...
Rugers are tools...not show pieces

 

[Elmer]

I figure whatever is left on the cylinder front after a good brushing is just patina. Gives it some character.

 

[Snobal]

Put a dab of JB Bore Compound on a patch, then just smear it around the cylinder face.

Then use a brass brush to lightly buff the cylinder face.

Wipe with a clean patch.

Works like magic. 8)

Gun looks like new. :wink:

JB also works well for cleaning lead from barrels.

A gunsmith told me about JB Bore Compound back in the 1960's.