bolt won't lift out.

10-22 manlicher stock. Purchased used. I have fired the rifle and there are no problems.

I took it apart to clean, and I did remove the buffer pin. The bolt will not lift out from the front. It will come out if I pry with a screwdriver from the rear.

I went to a friend's house to try his bolt. My bolt will not fit in his rifle and his bolt will not fit in mine.

The problem is not the handle. After removing the handle, I tried dropping the bolt in and it hangs up on the rail. Also, my bolt is not radiused as much as my friend's.

The overhangs the rail perhaps .040".

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s282/hiram1818/10-22endview_zps79461588.jpg

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s282/hiram1818/10-22boltsideview_zpsbae8af76.jpg

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s282/hiram1818/10-22endview_zps79461588.jpg

Thanks for any help.

I have a vague recollection of having a similar problem with one of mine a few years ago. Can't recall the specifics but I seem to remember that the solution was taking a very tiny bit of material off the end of the guide rod with a file.

Remember, it went in there somehow, so it has to come out. Maybe you haven't hit on the right combination of cusswords yet. :wink:

Like Snake45 said, it had to go in there at least one time.

Try placing the receiver on it's side and trying it. I have seen very few that will lift out from the front.

The radius is not critical. The differences you see are just cosmetic.

Just remembered--I had to remove the barrel to get the bolt out the first time. After removing the small amount of material from the guide rod, it would go in and out through the bottom as normal.

If it wont drop in easily without the handle/rod involved, take a close look at the inside of the receiver. There are two areas that often impede replacing the bolt easily.

One is flash (excess aluminum) around the injection molding site (round mark) at the top rear of the receiver.

The other is that "rail"... you can remove a wee bit at the rear and cause no harm, as the buffer pin with limit bolt travel when shooting. Just do it with a fine file, and go slow, it rarely takes more than a few strokes of the file to remove enough to let the bolt drop past.

Good luck.

You shouldn't have to do any filing. I removed the bolt from my 10/22 just two days ago for cleaning. After removing the bolt stop pin, I just pulled the charging handle slightly to the rear, turned the receiver upside down and the bolt and charging handle just dropped out without any prying. Reinstalling the bolt took me almost 15 minutes, because I had trouble keeping the charging handle straight against the side of the receiver and allowing the grooves in the bolt to match up with the slot in the bottom of the charging handle. The below video should help with the reassembly process. I hope this helps.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=CwU_U49iI3A

ranger1 said:

You shouldn't have to do any filing.

Click to expand...

That's exactly right--you shouldn't. One of my 10/22s came apart and went back together exactly as designed/intended/advertised. The other one was a different story--obviously something was just a hair out of tolerance. :wink:

Always put pressure on the charge handle to keep the assembly out of bind.

Too lazy to do now but go to rimfirecentral.com and query. There is an inexpensive aftermarket tool to assist in 10/22 bolt removal and re-install [and also extractor removal/reinstall]. The tool is a bent piece of flat aluminum stock w/one pin[used for the extractor work].

No need to be hammering, filing or otherwise beating up on your 10/22 to do what you are trying..trust me.

I could take a picture next week, if you PM me but rimfirecentral.com will get you fixed up right now.

Best.

Unk said:

Too lazy to do now but go to rimfirecentral.com and query. There is an inexpensive aftermarket tool to assist in 10/22 bolt removal and re-install [and also extractor removal/reinstall]. The tool is a bent piece of flat aluminum stock w/one pin[used for the extractor work].

No need to be hammering, filing or otherwise beating up on your 10/22 to do what you are trying..trust me.

I could take a picture next week, if you PM me but rimfirecentral.com will get you fixed up right now.

Best.

Click to expand...

Is this the one you're referring to? I've thought about ordering one myself.

http://www.gunsmithertools.com/gunsmither-1022-bolt-bar/

Unk said:

Too lazy to do now but go to rimfirecentral.com and query. There is an inexpensive aftermarket tool to assist in 10/22 bolt removal and re-install [and also extractor removal/reinstall]. The tool is a bent piece of flat aluminum stock w/one pin[used for the extractor work].

No need to be hammering, filing or otherwise beating up on your 10/22 to do what you are trying..trust me.

Click to expand...

There also should be no need for a tool to do it. But sometimes stuff happens (or doesn't happen, as the case may be). :wink:

I need the Bizaro version of that tool, the one that keeps the parts together. A 10/22 that won't let go of the bolt? It's solid and heavy and fits loosely in the light receiver.

Hunter, yes..mine is apparently an earlier version with only one(1) pin for extractor work.

Hawkeye and GasGuzzler, I hear you..just get a bigger hammer then...it'll also come in handy for beating the sideplates off S & W revolvers and such.

Best.

Actually, a hammer (nylon) is a great way to remove a side-plate on a S&W... just rap the grip frame a time or two until it pops loose.