Need some Security Six wisdom

Howdy all ! I have a Security Six that is giving me problems, Was hoping someone might provide some insight.

This has been a rescue/ project gun, that I am trying to work the kinks out of. The problem I am having seems to be related to the Transfer Bar, hanging up under the firing pin randomly.

The problem only manifests itself while shooting. It will dry fire with out a hitch all day long. But when I load it up and shoot it it will randomly lock up and I have to open the cylinder and close it back, in order to to cock the hammer.

I have had it apart several times, and cleaned, oiled and greased it. And still the problem persists. I feel like it is a pretty easy fix, but for the life of me I can't figure it out. I really want to get this thing up and running reliably, because when it does shoot its a tack driver.

Can anyone offer any suggestions? Thanks in advance !

When it hangs up is the transfer bar literally getting wedged in under the firing pin?

98redline, Yes, the edge of the transfer bar is catching on the bottom of the firing pin in its travel upwards.

However I can't get it to duplicate the problem when dryfiring, everything works as it should.
And it only seems to hang up randomly about once every cylinder full while firing. The hammer only goes about a quarter of the way back and you can see the top edge of the transfer bar catching on the firing pin. When this happens I can usually open the cylinder, close it, and pull the hammer back and the Tbar will slide past the firing pin as it should.

It "sounds like" the transfer bar is getting hung up on the recoil plate (where the firing pin lives). Make sure that it is in tight, and flush with the frame. It seems like it might be slighly backing out upon recoil. Also be sure that the pin that holds the recoil plate is there.

Glockman, I checked that, everything looks good there. recol plate is flush and nothing appears amiss with the pin.

I have Khunhausen's book on the SS, so that helps.
Like I said though, this thing has been a project/rescue. Its one of those "FrankenRugers".
Supposedly it has an all new trigger group, to replace a botched trigger job. And has had the cylinder replaced with a Stainless steel one. Other than that, it locks up tighter, than my S&W 586-3, the action isnt as smooth, but its not bad, both SA and DA. And its considerably more accurate.

If I can just figure out this last little problem I'll have a nice revolver, lol

Course , if I wasn't a cheap skate and broke to boot, lol I'd take it to a gunsmith. If I could find a decent one around here,that is.

I'll load up some light 357 loads, and keep working with it. If I can come across another transfer bar, I might try replacing it. Doesnt seem to be to difficult.
I also thought about beveling the top of the Tbar just a little, but I hate altering parts any further than I have too. And when dry firing everything appears to be working as it should.

Since it doesn't show any signs of being unsafe to fire, no shaving, bulged cases, etc. Guess I'll keep working with it. If anyone has any ideas I'm all ears, lol

I also have Khunhausen's book, and it's an excellent one.

I take it that the cylinder locks into place without movement when holding the trigger tightly to the rear, and that the timing is good? Also, it might not be a bad idea to remove the transfer bar and check for burrs (esp. at the top)...Also, check for burrs on the frame where the transfer bar rides. ALSO, check to be sure that the spring for the firing pin is strong and in-place, by pushing it in with a pencil or a punch, (from the rear where the transfer bar strikes it), and that the firing pin moves back & forth freely.

Yep, cylinder looks up good. Timing is good.
I checked the Tbar and smoothed it up, where Khunhausen indicates, used a stone to break the edges, ever so slightly. The tip is smooth and slightly rounded. Almost identical to the one pictured in the shop manual, from what I can tell.
No problems found with the firing pin, seems nice and strong. And seems to be smooth, I can't feel any roughness or burrs, when pushing it in with a small punch.

I tryed to cock it, and with a small probe, push the Tbar under the firing pin, as the hammer draws back to see if it would catch, but it slides right past, everytime.

While reading the Khunhausen shop manual, I ran across what I think might be my problem. See what you guys think.

The passage says " A shortened, weak , or incorrect center pin spring ,can fail to engage and/or allow the center lock pin to bounce out of the frame's center lock pin tunnel (out of locked position) on firing, particularly when magnum ammunition is used."

Now if I can just find a center pin spring. Figure I'll call Ruger and see if they will send me one. If not, anybody have a spare cylinder pin spring for a Security Six?

You may be on to something there. The cyl. pin spring pushes the cyl. latch back when the cylinder is closed. When the cylinder latch is open it blocks the action from fullly working.

Walkindude said:

Supposedly it has an all new trigger group, to replace a botched trigger job. And has had the cylinder replaced with a Stainless steel one.

Click to expand...

Nobody seems to appreciate the fact that revolvers must be hand fit at the factory. After fitting, parts are NOT interchangeable. This is true of even the most basic of revolvers. It is obvious that a "new" trigger group (if trigger group refers to everything within the trigger guard) AND a "new" cylinder came from various sources and parts guns.

The top of the transfer bar must be radiused and polished, and must not bind on the frame when it moves. The firing pin must be smooth and radiused and not protrude rearward too far. These problems would likely show up if the 2 parts were from another model revolver. Or, it might seem like the transfer bar hangs up on the firing pin, when the real problem is that the cylinder is binding in DA mode just at that point.

Other than that, it locks up tighter, than my S&W 586-3

Click to expand...

Tight lockup is rarely the goal when fitting up a revolver. Tight lockup with perfect b/c alignment is extremely difficult to achieve and not necessarily a sign that the gun will be accurate. From a reliability standpoint, the tighter the lockup, the more difficult it is for the cylinder latch to fall into the locking grooves of the cylinder. Something to consider, anyway.

Carry_Up

Carry_up
I'm not ready to give up on this old horse yet, as the revolver is extremely accurate. And promises to be an excellent shooter if and when I can get the kinks worked out of her.

I have found that the problem goes away when firing 38 spc loads. It only occurs when firing 357 loads. Which I am hoping indicates a weak cylinder center spring pin. If the cylinder were binding, in DA mode, would it bind while dryfiring as well?

Worse case scenario, I have contaced Ruger and the stated they will replace it with a gp100 model at a considerable savings.

Walkindude said:

Carry_up
I'm not ready to give up on this old horse yet, as the revolver is extremely accurate. And promises to be an excellent shooter if and when I can get the kinks worked out of her.

I have found that the problem goes away when firing 38 spc loads. It only occurs when firing 357 loads. Which I am hoping indicates a weak cylinder center spring pin. If the cylinder were binding, in DA mode, would it bind while dryfiring as well?

Worse case scenario, I have contaced Ruger and they stated they will replace it with a gp100 model at a considerable savings.

Click to expand...

I would go that route, if you NEED a heavier revolver...However, the Security-Six is a very good gun, and will be "worth it" to get it running right.

I'm watching this to see how it comes out. I,too, have a Sec 6 with "hitchitus" which is also a rehab gun. It had a lot of surface rust on it and much pitting on the cylinder. The snag in the cocking was there before and after the cylinder/crane replacement.

Just wanted to update my post.. She's fixed and shoots like a new one !!!!!
Called Ruger and had them send me a cylinder center pin spring, cylinder center pin rod, and an ejector rod washer. Which they did, free of charge I might add !
Installed them and took her out and problems gone. I'm a happy camper !
Thanks for all the ideas and help, much appreciated !

Walkindude said:

Just wanted to update my post.. She's fixed and shoots like a new one !!!!!
Called Ruger and had them send me a cylinder center pin spring, cylinder center pin rod, and an ejector rod washer. Which they did, free of charge I might add !
Installed them and took her out and problems gone. I'm a happy camper !
Thanks for all the ideas and help, much appreciated !

Click to expand...

Excellent!. .

Your certainly on the rite track as the center pin pushes the latch back to prevent just what ya have happening transfer hang up on FP !!

Check GunParts.com (Numriechs)