retrofitting stainless

I hate to start duplicate thread, but the search function keeps bombing, WTH??

anyway, looking for some more tips for cleaning up the brushed stainless finish.
There are some good vids on utube. basically the correct use of flat surfaces, sand paper and scotch brite pads, with or without oil. Those are pretty simple for minor scratches and pitting. my new aquire has some deeper pitting on the frame above the cylinder.

for pitting, 320 grit was recomended, is that the coursest to go with?

suggestions??

i'll post some pics asap.
thanks

all depends on just "where" the marks are...we always have used small files (Swiss files) to remove the pitting, scratches etc, in the area you say (top strap, above the cylinder???)
then we follow with emery paper (garnet paper or aluminum oxide paper) a bit coarser grits to start, and wrapped these around a hand file (larger than the Swiss files) if on a flat, then use blocks of wood, keeps things FLAT.........as you progress use finer and finer grits of paper....to finish and match the factory "matte" finishes, we use 3M Scotchbrite pads, also comes in various grits but we use the same ones just "worn" ones for the finish , and less "pressure".....gotta test and try , and see how it works for you...............
I been doing this since the late 1960's ,so have a bit of practice..... 8)

stay away for POWER tools , unless you know what and how to............... :roll:


you want shiny, THEN you can go to the 'polishes' like Semi Chrome, Flitz, and Mothers Billet polish :wink:

here is the pitting

piece of cake, draw file using the small Swiss files, follow up with emery paper the LONG way ( front to back) and then "shoe shine" across the top strap with 'fine' emery paper to BLEND it all in...........for me that is about a 10 minute job........ :wink:

zeus,

Dan's the expert and gave great advice! Because the pits are near the sharp edge of the frame I have only one suggestion I can add: when filing, of course, you want to remove as little metal as needed to retain the frames original contour.

You'll need to remove metal along the full length of the top strap so you don't create a low spot where the pit was. And you may need to do the other side of the top strap as well, so both sides are even.

When filing, I don't remove the entire pit, almost but not quite. Because when you sand to remove the file marks, you'll be removing another small layer of metal. But the sanding to remove the file marks will also remove the last trace of pitting and therefor slightly less metal is removed.

You may be surprised at how deep those minute pits can go.

spot on Jim, and yes, when 'draw filing' one has to go the entire length of any straight line ( edge) so to maintain, the proper "look"...you DO NOT 'work' just the pit, as this will dish ( swale) and create a divot, or low spot....that's 'why' when you finish it off with the paper or a 3M Scotchbrite and go across the grain so to speak, this breaks up the sight plain (fools the eye??) 8)
this is why one holds any firearm up and at an angle to "look" down the outsides of the barrel or any LONG ,straight lines, and LOOK for 'swales, divots or improper polishing.....kind of like looking down the 'sides' of an automobile after any body work, to "see' the ripples or "putty" build up......and in any bright light , they will jump out at you...............
take your time, go easy, and YES "neatness counts" :wink:

mmm, yes, like body work. however if you jack that up you can add more bondo and try again.

whats the best way to hold the revolver while working? just on a table with a towel? clamps? wood chocks?...........

Dan, Excellent point for observing progress and results!

zeus, Dan may have a better idea, but I would clamp the trigger guard, because it has parallel surfaces, in a vice with padded jaws or a thick piece of leather like an old belt, with barrel pointing away or towards you. That way you can sight down both sides of the top strap and keep the symmetrical. To "draw' file, you hold the file perpendicular to the top strap using holding each end of the file between thumb and forefinger. Make long file strokes parallel with the frame top strap.

And later use a piece of alum for a sanding block or something else very flat as large as the top strap to wrap finer and finer grit sandpaper around. And go cross grain as Dan said with vice/gun turned 90 degrees. You'll be able to see the file marks as you sand them out cross grain. If you don't have a small 4" jaw vice, with a pivoting head to move it 90 degrees, they are not expensive, very handy to have, and once you have it, you'll use it more and more.

absolutely, a well padded bench vise or some such, that you can 'manipulate' ( turn) when needed thus keeping BOTH hands on the files, or the sanding block or two hands to "shoe shine" a long, narrow strip of emery paper or such, over and around curved, round surfaces........ :wink:

thanks guys, sounds to what I was thinking.
I see extra care needs to be taken with the "top strap"as it is ever so slightly convex. peering down the legnth of the sight one can see this and any and every "dish" or concavity. Using a file length ways could leave some awkward facets in the existing radius of the strap. guess I got to pay learner dues sooner or later, or pay someone else.

curved, flat, convexed, whatever "draw filing" is an art, and done by hand makes not matter the surface, its learning the over laps, easy light strokes, and MAINTAINING the "curve",yes, too heavy and you leave file marks, then one has to file out the "file marks", change directions and let the file "float",,,,, the emery paper is for blending it all in towards the finish.........yes, I even use hand files to remove pitting from cylinders and around barrels ( like removing the "warning logo") 8) :roll: :wink:

here is one I was really proud of , all by HAND, NO tools or machinery...........







to get the 'effect" of tooling (cutter marks) I used medium grit aluminum oxide paper, in strips and squares, and push/twist with your thumb on the end, the chamfer was cut with a medium fine file around the end with the barrel placed upright in a padded vise, go slowly "neatness counts" :wink:

rugerguy said:

curved, flat, convexed, whatever "draw filing" is an art, and done by hand makes not matter the surface, its learning the over laps, easy light strokes, and MAINTAINING the "curve",yes, too heavy and you leave file marks, then one has to file out the "file marks", change directions and let the file "float",,,,, the emery paper is for blending it all in towards the finish.........yes, I even use hand files to remove pitting from cylinders and around barrels ( like removing the "warning logo") 8) :roll: :wink:

here is one I was really proud of , all by HAND, NO tools or machinery...........

to get the 'effect" of tooling (cutter marks) I used medium grit aluminum oxide paper, in strips and squares, and push/twist with your thumb on the end, the chamfer was cut with a medium fine file around the end with the barrel placed upright in a padded vise, go slowly "neatness counts" :wink:

Click to expand...

Wow, that is truly amazing work, beautiful job

Dan,

Extraordinary craftsmanship! I too use the 'thumb twist' on the muzzle. Your work exhibits the talents of a "true" gunsmith as opposed to many 'parts changers' that we have today.

A friend cam to me with a stainless Ruger that his gunsmith had 'removed' the warning logo and replaced it with a long flat spot instead! A little more judicious filing, 'shoe shine' sanding and polishing, then he had a round barrel again.

Thanks guys, appreciate the comments, and as I said when I "apprenticed"?? for the local gunshop he needed someone to do the "dirty handwork", take things apart, strip them down, and "prep" things before he would do the bluing....I did the "hand work" he showed me how and told me to "practice" I did hand filing steady for well over a year , and after time, got the hang of things, I HATED power buffing, burnt your finger, throws things all over the shop, and breathing that 'crap' ( lint, dust, rust and metal filings) even when wearing a mask, so I "specialized in "files", octagon barrels, round ones, whatever....and yes, also used blocks of wood with emery paper wrapped around them, keeps things "flat", power wheels dish out holes, and round edges.............doing it with stainless is a snap, and I still kinda enjoy that, help folks get the nicks and scatches out.........save the cutting and machining for the "machinists" who really make lousy gunsmiths because they are too anal, in sizes and measurements and all that "math"....ha ha ( MY Dad was a tool and die maker, so I KNOW !!!! 8)
boy do I enjoy 'retirement'

Yep, everyday is a Saturday! But I don't know how I ever had time for a full time job!

too bad you are SOOOOO far away, would love to set a spell with you and a couple of the "other' old timers here who 'been around'.......and the LAST time I was out to kalyfornya, it was on a Friday the 13th and about a week after the PSA flight 27 went down in flames at San Diego, I flew the same flight from Oakland :shock:

and twice the ground shook UNDER my feet, as well as on my visit to Tijuana, thought I was gonna have to fight my way out of town...........
Gosh I love the 'Midwest' and the change of seasons :wink:


Anyway, Zeus100 you can get or do the job you show us above, go easy and take your time, heck if it was here it would have been DONE already...............

here................







did it while he had a cup of coffee, I wanted to do something with the sight blade, but he said "no need to"