New NV Timing Problem?

StreetKing said:

If I open the loading gate, I can barely rotate the cylinder and hear a click, then I can close the gate, cock it and it will fire.

Click to expand...

This is an interesting problem. I would like to know what is done @ the factory. From your description: "I can barely rotate the cylinder." Does that mean it is difficult to rotate the cylinder, or you only have to move it a little bit?

Have a close look at the cylinder locking pawl which is visible at the bottom of the cylinder. It should drop completely out of sight as soon as the hammer is pulled back. It should also drop when the loading gate is opened (remember the hammer has to be down first.) The cylinder should spin freely in the clockwise direction when the loading gate is open (hammer down first).

Be sure that your base pin is locked in place by the base pin latch. Also, there is a spring and plunger as part of the hammer assembly. The plunger is necessary to drop the cylinder locking pawl, but then also has to allow the pawl to snap back after the cylinder begins to rotate. A broken hammer plunger could cause a lot of trouble. Anyway keep us up to date on the solution.

-Carry_up

Carry_Up said:

StreetKing said:

If I open the loading gate, I can barely rotate the cylinder and hear a click, then I can close the gate, cock it and it will fire.

Click to expand...

This is an interesting problem. I would like to know what is done @ the factory. From your description: "I can barely rotate the cylinder." Does that mean it is difficult to rotate the cylinder, or you only have to move it a little bit?

Click to expand...

"Barely", as in, "slightly"...ever-so-slightly. It is as though the pawl is no longer pushing up quite far enough to rotate the cylinder to the next, needed click.
Thank you for the info. After a time of perusing, I checked all of the things you mentioned. None 'appear' to be my issue...but then, my Smithing skills could easily end in Smitherines.
I, too, would like to know what Ruger does to repair it, but, going by previous reads, they will likely not proffer the details. I will, however, report any additional info after the repair.

Normally, the cylinder would be locked by the locking pawl before the gate is opened. Opening the gate will drop the locking pawl out of the way, allowing the cylinder to rotate clockwise. The clicking you hear will be the hand (another pawl) which is the part on the left side of the frame. Check that part to see if the bottom shelf of the pawl might have been sheared off. The "hand" engages with the cylinder ratchet at 2 places. The top shelf of the hand begins rotating the cylinder when the hammer moves backward. Then the bottom shelf of the hand takes over and completes the cylinder rotation to the next cylinder locking notch.

If your "hand" has lost its lower shelf, the cylinder would begin to rotate normally during cocking, but would be unable to completely carry up. I think a broken hand is the most likely thing, and this is part #42 in the schematic.

-cu

Carry_Up said:

If your "hand" has lost its lower shelf, the cylinder would begin to rotate normally during cocking, but would be unable to completely carry up. I think a broken hand is the most likely thing, and this is part #42 in the schematic.

-cu

Click to expand...

I suspect you are right. It's like it is no longer long enough to push the cylinder up all the way to position...it stops a hair short.

In that case, it is probably worth the 2.50 to put one in. The first time disassembly and re-assembly is a bit tricky, but just follow the book. If you do have a sheared hand, I personally think the part might have been a weak casting flaw. Even though I'm not a fanner, I would expect this design to take the punishment. Remembering of course that the original SAA Colts were made of low strength metals. Clint Eastwood had no trouble fanning his Navy conversion. Doesn't that prove it?

Lay out the disassembled parts and take some pictures. Post them in this topic. Paying for and installing a cheapo part that fixes the problem is a lot better than the hassle and time frame of sending it in for free IMO.

Dang...I wish you two were here at the beginning- before I boxed it up and dropped it with the UPS guy. Thank you very much, all-the-same.
I am just glad I did not come here to get help stopping a bomb timer.
'Hey guys...I need some help...I found a bomb in my bathroom...I cut the red wire and it made the timer start going...what should I do?!'
"Never cut the wed one! The wed one ith not the wight one!"
"The worst you can do is cut the red wire. You should have learned that at bomb-tech"
"The manual says NEVER cut the red one"
"I've been defusing bombs for 164 years and never had the urge to cut the red one. I hope you learned your lesson"
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

I love you all, though.
Be Blessed

OK. I got my NV back from Ruger yesterday. They did not go into any detail at all, but the service order says they replaced the hammer and pawl. Smooth as silk now.

Cool. 8) . BTW, limited fanning (less than 30 shots) as you did should not have been a problem. Bob Munden (now deceased) always recommended that the gun should be tuned for fanning/fast draw, for the reasons mentioned above. Hope your gun now 'shoots' accurately now too . I've never fanned any of my Rugers BTW, but did have a carry up problem in one that required the 'hand' to be replaced. This was after a lot of shooting with it....

Are you leaving any oil in the cylinders? This can cause the case to back out under recoil and jam against the shield, locking the gun up.