I tried to swap a stock off a ruger Hawkeye 375 to my ruger 77 stainless mark II last night but I got a major snag. The wood stock fit the action perfict I was all excited to get a nice wood stock to replace the plastic stock on it .They just fit like a glove .Then I screwed the trigger guard and the floor plate back on they fit .Then I tried to snap the floor plate it was a no go .It wouldn't close to snap . There must be a difference in the floor plates I was not aware of .I hope I can just change the floor plate .I didn't know if anyone on here had tried to do this .i would love to have this nice walnut stock on this rifle and a good recoil pad to boot !
Will Hawkeye stock off ruger 375 African swap ruger mark II
- Thread starter dgr416
- Start date
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rugerjunkie
Buckeye
Everything should swap between a Hawkeye and MkII. They are the same rifle. Just cosmetic differences.
Id go back and check the magazine box and make sure its seated properly. You also need to "tune" the trigger guard screws to get it working properly. Too tight and it will pinch the floor plate latch not letting it open.
Id go back and check the magazine box and make sure its seated properly. You also need to "tune" the trigger guard screws to get it working properly. Too tight and it will pinch the floor plate latch not letting it open.
I will try it again .I might just try this stock on my Hawkeye 338 win mag .There is some kind of difference just a hair in the two .I hope it will work it's a nice stock . Those plastic stocks including the boat paddle ones are terrible on bigger calibers like I have 264 win mag and even worse on 338 win mag .
When replacing a stock always tighten the action screws starting @ the front & working to the back (towards the stock). This ensures the locking lugs set in where they belong. On Ruger rifles sometime mixing up the order causes safeties, etc. to jam. One time a friend called, he was in hunting camp, got his rifle wet in the rain & dismantled it to dry & oil it. When reassembled the safety didn't work. I told him loosen all the screws then re-tighten from the front & suddenly all was well again. Hope this helps.
mike7mm08
Buckeye
As mentioned order of tightening can make a difference. Factory specs are tighten front to 95 in pounds. Then alternate tightening mid and back screw a partial turn til you reach about 45 to 60 inch pound. I will typically tighten the mid and rear screw as mentioned. I only tighten mid screw til it stops with mild hand pressure. I then torque the rear down as recommended. The middle screw does nothing for holding the action no need for it to be super tight. I have found the floorplate will latch better most times with the middle screw minimally tight.
