Why one should have two of the same pistol

Hvymax said:
You have 9 of them and don't know how to strip for proper cleaning 😲
Click to expand...
My question would be how many here take the slide and rest of the pistol totally apart for 'proper cleaning'?
I have never seen this in any owners manual... but anywho....
I did find a you tube video and probably should look for another one... seems the pin has to come out from right to left and also I need to figure out how to secure the slide to do this, the way it is designed is so that it wants to roll when you hit the pin.
And like I've said, I've broken the lower parts of these pistols down completely more than once and it is not for the faint of heart. many years ago I took my Sig P230 completely apart and it took me over 8 hours to get the trigger parts back together.... I only had the one pistol and the first real problem was using a IPB "Illustrated Parts Breakdown" for an Sig P232 and then finally figuring out the innards were slightly different from the P230.
 
I'm lucky to run a patch or two through the barrel after shooting. Time permitting, I'll take the slide off and clean the innards some. But I've never disassembled a slide or trigger. Then again, compared to many here, I don't shoot much.
 
went to prove three of them yesterday and too many folks at my club's pistol range.... I have a fall back plan... I have a laser cartridge in 357 Sig caliber and I guess that will have to do with function.... for now... I need to make a bracket or such to hold the slide as I drive that pin out.
 
blume357 said:
went to prove three of them yesterday and too many folks at my club's pistol range.... I have a fall back plan... I have a laser cartridge in 357 Sig caliber and I guess that will have to do with function.... for now... I need to make a bracket or such to hold the slide as I drive that pin out.
Click to expand...
Got a vise in your shop? Plastic soft jaws work wonders for this sort of thing.
 
Yes, I have several 'vices' and one of them is actually the heavy duty metal clamping type.... I used several layers of cloth to hole a pistol in it but when I tried to drive the pin out the other day with it just laying on a soft mat and me giving it a good wack it did not move. I think I'll put some of that WD-40 on it and let it sit for an hour and then go from there....
 
Especially my EDC it usually manages to get dunked in salt water a few times a year. If you are betting your life on something you should be absolutely positive that it's going to work. Fortunately most of the newer guns are simple to strip and clean. My Max9 is way easier than my CZ75's especially the hammer and trigger assembly.
 
When you rely on firearms for work or safety, you eventually come to the conclusion that...

"Two is one, one is none."

Your backup should be identical to your primary, for numerous reasons.
 
So, here is the latest problem... I've cleaned the firing pin channel and safety along with the extractor on two of these pistols ... got both of them them all apart.... the retaining pin for the firing pin on these two is a roll pin and I was able to knock these out... now the pin on the one I had the problem with as well as several others are solid pins with a slightly rounded end and I can't get these to budge at all. What is the secret? Am I just know hitting it hard enough? because of the rounded end of the ping the punch wants to slip off.
 
@blume357, how are you holding these slides when attempting to drive the pins out? You mention attempting to drive pins on the bench, any time you use less than 100% secure workholding, part of the energy of your blow goes into moving the workpiece instead of the pin inside the piece.

In the meantime, soak in Kroil or similar penetrating oil.
 
These pistols have a "spring" pin as a FP retainer - sometimes called a rol-pin but they are different. If you dry fire the pistol much, without a snap cap in the chamber, the shoulder on the firing pin will slowly chew its way through the FP retainer, deforming it in the process. This can do two things: 1. Lock up your FP 2. Make it nearly impossible to drive out the FP retainer.
SIG has a replacement fix for this - a heavy duty rol-pin.
 
NikA said:
@blume357, how are you holding these slides when attempting to drive the pins out? You mention attempting to drive pins on the bench, any time you use less than 100% secure workholding, part of the energy of your blow goes into moving the workpiece instead of the pin inside the piece.

In the meantime, soak in Kroil or similar penetrating oil.
Click to expand...
That kind of makes sense and I'll see what I can do, I really think these are very clean and just flushing them out with good oil works fine but now that I've gone down this trail I'd like to be able to do it when needed and Koyote1's post just above about these pins makes sense too... and I'd like to replace the hard to remove ones with something a little easier.
 
I appreciate how often you post when something goes wrong. Knowing you are opening yourself up to criticism. Also knowing your story can help us from making the same mistake.

I am vigilant about safely functioning testing my guns after disassembly cleaning and reassembly. One mistake can really cost you. Your story is a good reminder to be certain.

I am a big believer in having multiples of any gun I really rely on. I have definitely had to use one to figure out what is wrong with another.
 
Thanks, (my auto correct won't let me type your name .....ed). I thought I was pretty good at maintenance and knowing how these specific pistols worked.... and then this one, which I have been carrying pretty much every afternoon for several years, had this problem... really makes you sit down and think. The really telling part was it took me over a day to figure out the problem and once I did the fix was pretty simple but did take patience, but now I have the knowledge to hopefully never let it happen to any of my Sig DA/SA pistols again.
 
Sometimes solid pins are tapered and will only come out from one direction. If that is the case with yours, you might be trying to remove it backwards.

DGW
 
Good thread and glad you learned about the seized up part during a non-threatening moment. Can you imagine if you needed it???

Which brings me to this, if I am gonna sew a weapon into a bag that I carry often (and I do like that idea) it would not be any type of semi-auto. It would be a small revolver for these very reason. Could the revolver seize up????? Sure, anything is possible, but the chances of it happening or not being able to get off a round is a hundred times less.
 
I agree in theory...on the reliability of a revolver over a semi..... but I will tell you that back in '05 when I was doing the qualification test here in S.C. for a concealed weapons permit I was using a revolver, (I can't remember now if it was my Colt Trooper or S&W model 19... which tells us all something). .... the point is we were to fire 50 rounds at a life size target from various distances and I had two failures to fire....
nothing is guaranteed.... The last time I took a defensive handgun class my last round on the qualification test was a failure to fire...
 
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