While belts dry I make full flap holsters for Old Armys

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Tallbald

Buckeye
Joined
Jan 29, 2009
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1,750
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Southern KY
Between belt orders or when only drying time is needed crafting laminated belts for others, I love designing and making holsters for some of my favorite wheelguns. I cannot hunt any more, but I especially love making full flap holsters I would use if I could still walk the hills. These photos show my simple clamping method in the end stages of crafting a full flap holster for one of my Old Armys, also shown. Contact cement joins the edges for sewing.The leather is cut from the same hides I use for belts, 7-8 ounce American Hermann Oak vegetable tanned cowhide. The finish isn't complete, but so far shows the holster with just the brown dye I use and a first application of Resolene acrylic top coat. I had to determine the sequence of assembly in order not to sew myself "into a corner", but that's part of the fascination of the crafting process. Thread is brown nylon. Solid copper rivets are used on this holster for reinforcement, and my Old Army will seat deep into the holster bucket to protect the nipples. Were I able still to hunt, my ROA would be a wonderful tool. It shoots cloverleafs at 20 paces for me with round ball from a rest. How I wish I had had the black powder fever back in the 70's when I had a family farm to wander. I missed out on a lot of fun back then.
When designing a holster, a great deal of thought and planning goes into the process. I myself draw patterns on poster board and use a razor knife to cut them out. They are then fitted just like true leather parts and usually multiple adjustments have to be made and added using masking tape, or a bit removed here and there to make for a good fit. Some folks are able to use computer drawing programs I'm told to mock up parts to cut out.They are a lot smarter than me.
I highly recommend that anyone seeking a new hobby investigate leather crafting. All leather doesn't have to be the $10+ a square foot quality I use in my artworks. Often a person can find online bargains in imported tooling leather, and one can choose pre-dyed leathers too if step saving is wanted. As confidence is gained, a new crafter can step up the specifications of the materials they use. I started with a homemade stitching horse, and had to switch to a machine sewing method because of illness. But I made dozens of holsters, cell phone cases, and other accessories using simple inexpensive tools before moving up to tools I now have.
Be prepared to make some mistakes and don't be too hard on yourself in the beginning. All leather crafters, including me, seem to have their own "wall of shame" so to say, and learn from their booboos. I have tried many many techniques over the last three years and now know what works for me and what doesn't.
Anyway, If anyone has a new interest in leather crafting I would be tickled to offer pointers and links to videos.
Thanks for looking. And it would be fun to see other holsters folks have come up with for their ROA's. I'll post photos of this project when I finish. I will likely finish it, shelve it carefully and begin another in time. It's just a satisfying endeavor. Don Sterchi
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Tallbald

Buckeye
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Location
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Thank you. I truly love working with leather. Starting with raw materials and crafting a belt, holster, case or whichever provides a sense of accomplishment and productivity for me. Don Sterchi.
 

Tallbald

Buckeye
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I was debating on the end treatment. I've yet to make a toe plug holster and in keeping with Civil War era holsters I've studied,this one begs for the toe plug. Decisions decisions......Don.
 

stevelutah

Bearcat
Joined
Mar 19, 2014
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11
Fine looking work there. I too like full flap holsters for field use. Man I should got one of those SAAs.
 

Viking Queen

Blackhawk
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Apr 29, 2011
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711
Location
Northern Colorado
Don, did you make your own pattern or use one from a pattern/holster maker, Like Will Gormley?

I really like the color, which dye color did you use, and do you dilute it or use full strength?

Very nice workmanship. Also, I am in the "leave the toe open" crowd, even though the toe plug might be the historically accurate choice. I just like the idea of an open toe to let lint, dust, etc. find it's way out of the holster. Either way I am sure it will look fantastic, as does your other work.

I also do some leatherworking and find my Cobra 4 machine to be amazing with what it can sew through. A good friend is seriously worried that I might just stitch my hand to a holster one day. Ha! Possible, but unlikely wih 60 years of sewing experience behind me. :D

Hope you post pictures of this holster when finished.

Viking Queen
 

revhigh

Hawkeye
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Aug 31, 2005
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PA
Love the color ... Not too crazy about the binder clip look though .... :D

REV
 

Tallbald

Buckeye
Joined
Jan 29, 2009
Messages
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Location
Southern KY
Viking Queen I apologize that I hadn't seen your questions. I use Hermann Oak leather and am also investigating Wickett and Craig, both wonderful vegetable tanned American hides. I cut my own straps to size from hides with an old school razor hand cutter, and use a hobby knife to cut curved lines.
I make all my own patterns too. I hand dip dye with Fiebing's oil based dyes and hang dry everything. This holster happens to be Fiebing's Show Brown, diluted 50/50 with alcohol. I use Lexol Leather Conditioner to replace oils lost to the dye process, and top coat three times with Fiebing's Resolene acrylic finish diluted 50/50 with water. I sponge apply finishes. I top that with Fiebing's Carnuba Creme and a good hand buffing. What takes extra time for all my belts and holsters is the 24 hour drying time between coats of dye, Lexol, Resolene, and carnuba wax. I only use a box fan to help speed drying. Some I read use heat guns, or even oven baking at very low settings.
The thread is 277 nylon top and bottom at about 6 stitches per inch.
My machine is a Cowboy 3500. 300 plus pounds of cast iron and steel. She can sew up to about 7/8 inch thick layers of leather, but the most I've sewn is 5/8 inches for a custom ulu knife sheath.
Here's a couple pictures of the holster completed. And the ulu sheath.
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And yet another of my machine, "Bertha Jo" in my studio I share with Penny and her quilting supplies.
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Hope this helps some. Don Sterchi
 

Twogun

Bearcat
Joined
Aug 13, 2015
Messages
10
Not critical at all, love and respect your craftsmanship, however----on the copper rivets. they seem a little too much, both size and especially, how to say it, color? A copper rivet is not stable, it turns green if neglected and is always reacting to something. With all the choices in metals today, it seems like something else would be more suitable. How about bronze or German silver, like used on some horse tack? Also smaller, more understated, with an oval head aligned with the stitching. PPPurrrrrrrfection. Twogun
 

Tallbald

Buckeye
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Jan 29, 2009
Messages
1,750
Location
Southern KY
Variety is beauty in itself! I saw and honored a Civil War era holster with similar construction rivets and all. Good ideas you suggest. Don.
 

Tallbald

Buckeye
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Southern KY
Pistolero I sure thank you for your kind words. For me it's an artistic endeavor of love for the material. It ties me a bit to our ancestors, and melds both modern and old world techniques. Don.
 
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