What to use on old holster to keep it from going south?

[George]

I picked up a old holster it's dry but has not started cracking yet. I had always used a good gun oil on a rag inside and out on all my leather holsters for about 35 years without issues. But I never treated a old dry holster before. It's a nice holster and would like to keep it that way. Any of you bring back old gun leather to a useable state? Should I just apply some extra gun oil to it a few times to get it to come around? The main area in concern is the retention strap that keeps the gun in the holster and the belt loop. George

 

[stevemb]

I like Sno-Seal. It's a wax based protectant that I've used on boots, sheaths,etc., since the '70's. I warm it before applying. If warm and sunny out, warm the holster too. I'd not use any artificial heat on the old holster. On new or in good shape stuff, I'll place near heat vent or use blow dryer to help melt it in. Again, this not a good idea for your old holster. We have several folks here who make holsters and have more specific knowledge than I. Hopefully they'll chime in here or PM you.

 

[tulsamal]

I used to use Neat's Foot oil on my leather stuff. But it is hard to avoid getting stuff "too wet" and then that moisture attracts "stuff" and before you know it you have mold or mildew growing like crazy. If you put a wet old leather sling somewhere way out of sight and don't notice it for a couple years... it can be a nasty mess when you finally discover it.

I now mostly use products that were designed for horse tack. Top end horse people spend many thousands of dollars on their leather and they are willing to pay to maintain it. I like the Lexol stuff. If I have something that really needs to be cleaned, I'll use the Leather Cleaner. But I easily go through 2-3 bottles of the Leather Conditioner for every bottle of cleaner. Spray it on, wipe it around to get everything, let it soak in... but don't store the item until you are sure it isn't wet anymore.

 

[BIgMuddy]

For the last year or so I have been using Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP on all of my leather. It was created by and for western firefighters for their boots. I had some old horse tack that I would have thrown away but the Obenauf's brought it back to life. Made in Peck ID. Great stuff!

Dan

 

[Busterswoodshop]

Mineral oil works good.

 

[Cordite]

For the last year or so I have been using Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP on all of my leather. It was created by and for western firefighters for their boots. I had some old horse tack that I would have thrown away but the Obenauf's brought it back to life. Made in Peck ID. Great stuff!

Dan

+1. I use Obenauf's on my leather as well. Helps to work it into the leather as it contains beeswax and it isn't messy like some oil based products are.
The protection lasts a long time. Makes your hands soft as well as you rub it into the leather.

Cordite

 

[onehandgunner]

For the last year or so I have been using Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP on all of my leather. It was created by and for western firefighters for their boots. I had some old horse tack that I would have thrown away but the Obenauf's brought it back to life. Made in Peck ID. Great stuff!

Dan

+1. I use Obenauf's on my leather as well. Helps to work it into the leather as it contains beeswax and it isn't messy like some oil based products are.
The protection lasts a long time. Makes your hands soft as well as you rub it into the leather.

Cordite

I use this stuff as well. Holsters and boots.

 

[Iron Mike Golf]

Look here:

http://www.preservation-solutions.com/leather-care-products/

 

[David Bradshaw]

Old dry holster and belt leather:
Neatsfoot oil
made from hooves, is an excellent moisturizer and preservative. Knew a blacksmith who shoed working horses and forged tools and wagon hardware. Loggers brought harness to him, which he lowered by hoist into a vat of neatsfoot oil. This was done once a year. Neatsfoot oil may be applied heavy to a wide gunbelt, where flexibility is an attribute to comfort and spinal health while packing a 3-pound revolver all day, especially in the mountains.

Three drawbacks of neatsfoot oil
* Due to its ability to soften, neatsfoot oil should only be applied sparingly to a water molded holster.
* Attracts mildew in hot humid climates.
* Darkens light colored leather, which may not be desired.

Pecards Leather Treatment
Probably petroleum based, non-animal dressing, viscous like Sno-Seal, is good stuff and doesn't soften water molded holsters.

Mineral oil
As it resists mildew, mineral oil is used among some saddlery people, especially in the South.

I have never put gun oil on leather and would think it injurious. Among oil that the unknowing might try on leather, linseed oil would be the worst, as it will harden and crack the leather. Learned that as a kid, when a neighbor tried it on a Civil War cartridge box.

I try to take respectful care of my leather from the time Chic Gaylord gave me pointers on water molding my first holster for an old model Blackhawk 6-1/2" .357. Mind you, only properly selected hide properly tanned makes a long lasting holster. Over-brined leather cannot be saved. Fine skins properly tanned separate the best holsters from a great many mass produced products. Red Chinese holsters are an example of garbage-tanned inferior leather, barely a step above cardboard.

Other products listed in the thread, which I haven't tried, may be fine. If the leather is dirty at all, wipe with a damp cloth or saddle soaped. Mildew should be wiped, preferably washed and hung in the sun for ultra violet light to kill mildew. Rub in leather treatment and return to sun for several hours.
David Bradshaw

 

[chilcotin]

We use Oakwood Leather Conditioner on all our custom saddles, scabbards and holsters, contains emu oil and really softens and protects. Sometimes hard to find try local tack or saddle shop.

 

[WMB30]

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

 

[whichwatch]

What to use on an old holster to keep it from gong south?

Why a compass of course.

 

[jgt]

Saddle soap and water to clean. Let dry thoroughly then spray with Leather New and wipe excess. Let dry completely before storing.

 

[George]

Thank you everyone! I have a lot of good info now. I'll hit a few places and see what I can find now that I know what I'm looking for! George

 

[powder smoke]

I like sno seal also, works very well. ps

 

[Chuck 100 yd]

Skidmore's leather conditioner is the best I have ever found and I make lots of holsters in my shop. I also oil new holsters with Extra Virgine OliveOil as the initial oiling before any seal coat is applied.
Skidmore's is also a very good furniture polish,it is made with beeswax and I believe Lanolin. Keep it away from your wife or it will disappear once she finds out how good it is.

 

[Mike Armstrong]

+1 on SnoSeal or Pecards. And steal your wife's hair dryer, set it on a real low heat and use it to get the treatment REALLY into the leather.

I love old leather holsters for the same reasons I like used guns--price is usually reasonable and I don't have to wince every time I put a little wear on them. Besides, a new gun, knife, or leather looks out of place on somebody as old as I am. Heiser, Bianchi, Lawrence--my guys.

 

[TCGuy]

For the last year or so I have been using Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP on all of my leather. It was created by and for western firefighters for their boots. I had some old horse tack that I would have thrown away but the Obenauf's brought it back to life. Made in Peck ID. Great stuff!

Dan

+1 on the Obenauf's

It smells good, too.

 

[CraigC]

Old dry leather needs its moisture replenished with oil or conditioner, not SnoSeal. A very light application of neatsfoot or extra virgin olive oil once or twice a year is plenty. As Chuck suggested, Skidmore's is very well reputed.

 

[OldePhart]

I recommend plain saddle soap for cleaning and basic protection/rejuvenation, but I've never worked with really antique leather that needed to be restored from cracking or near-cracking. I had one basic undyed, tooled, 1-1/2" leather belt that I made that I wore daily for twenty-five years and it never had anything touch it but saddle soap. I finally had to retire it not because it was worn but because over the 25 years it shrank and became too short... :wink:

I also use nothing but saddle soap on my leather holsters (most of them IWB). I have one "police style" OWB revolver holster that I made about 30 years ago. It hasn't been used a lot and hasn't been exposed to the elements but, still, it looks like it was made yesterday.

For leather items exposed to weather (i.e. leather saddle bags on a motorcycle, for example) - I use a good all-weather boot polish after working saddle soap in well.

John