Yeah, if I have mixed primers I'll do this and indicate why on the label. Also will mark the round if I really screw up seating or crimping on any of the first couple of rounds made that batch, if still safe to shoot.AND different color sharpies on the primers.
What do you use for home rolled ammo ID
- Thread starter AJGUNNER
- Start date
^^^ That's for sure! ^^^
Different colored MTM boxes and either one of these peel and stick labels. Depending on which one is on hand at the time.
www.midwayusa.com
www.midwayusa.com
MTM Peel Stick Reloader's Labels Rifle/Handgun 50PK Colored Box
MTM Peel and Stick Reloader's Labels for Rifle/Handgun are the same labels that come with each MTM ammo box. They come 50 labels per package with 48...
www.midwayusa.com
National Metallic Peel Stick Reloader's Labels Rifle/Handgun 100PK
National Metallic Peel and Stick Reloader's Labels are self-adhesive and have the necessary fields to keep reloaders organized. Simply write on this...
www.midwayusa.com
I still do that till this day!
If there's something interesting with the load that needs more verbosity, I'll add a note number - like "Note 27" n And then in my reloading notes text file I have all listed with my reloading data and other notes.
I try and keep things simple as possible.
I use the head stamp on the cases to tell me what brand they are and what cartridge it is.
I can tell by looking at the bullet what style they are and their brand too.
I use different color sealants to denote between any factory(green), my normal pressure reloads(blue), and my test rounds(red).
I put them all in Berry's ammo boxes so I can see through the lids and know which ones they are at a glance.
I only write on the box the name of the powder plus charge weight used, the number of times the brass has been reloaded, along with a log:# as my reloading log book has these and every thing else, in detail, that I'll (or anyone else) would ever need to know.
I do not have any plans of making any hot loads, but if I did I would use +P or +P+ stamped brass with them and probably red sharpie the whole case from top to bottom.
I use the head stamp on the cases to tell me what brand they are and what cartridge it is.
I can tell by looking at the bullet what style they are and their brand too.
I use different color sealants to denote between any factory(green), my normal pressure reloads(blue), and my test rounds(red).
I put them all in Berry's ammo boxes so I can see through the lids and know which ones they are at a glance.
I only write on the box the name of the powder plus charge weight used, the number of times the brass has been reloaded, along with a log:# as my reloading log book has these and every thing else, in detail, that I'll (or anyone else) would ever need to know.
I do not have any plans of making any hot loads, but if I did I would use +P or +P+ stamped brass with them and probably red sharpie the whole case from top to bottom.
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I'm in the process of buying more storage boxes in different colors for the various calibers that I reload for; behind the first layer are either 50 or 30 caliber type containers double stacked that contain the bulk of loose ammo. The ammo boxes are certainly more durable than storing ammo in cardboard container or the original ammo containers.
As I get older it's easier to carry either 50 or 100 round containers versus the complete load of ammo in bulk.
I typically fill out the data sheet and recently have started taping them to the outside of the box for easier identification. If I develop & change a powder or bullet weight I'll just remove the label under the tape and replace it with an updated one. I'll use a hole puncher on the data labels and store them in 3 ring binders for future reference.
Having the completed rounds towards the front also allows me to grab a few rounds and set up my seating die to an approximate depth when I've switched from one bullet type/profile to another i.e. WC vs SWC vs RN etc.
As I get older it's easier to carry either 50 or 100 round containers versus the complete load of ammo in bulk.
I typically fill out the data sheet and recently have started taping them to the outside of the box for easier identification. If I develop & change a powder or bullet weight I'll just remove the label under the tape and replace it with an updated one. I'll use a hole puncher on the data labels and store them in 3 ring binders for future reference.
Having the completed rounds towards the front also allows me to grab a few rounds and set up my seating die to an approximate depth when I've switched from one bullet type/profile to another i.e. WC vs SWC vs RN etc.
Masking tape and sharpie, if I'm using a box.
Sometimes I use heavy duty freezer bags. Load data can be written directly on the bag.
These bags hold generally a hundred rounds and fit into ammo cans.
Sometimes I use heavy duty freezer bags. Load data can be written directly on the bag.
These bags hold generally a hundred rounds and fit into ammo cans.
gjgalligan
Single-Sixer
WOW
Do all of you do all of this record keeping and labeling?? You must all be professional shooters I guess.
I have only been reloading about 13 years and I just note the powder brand/amount & bullet weight. I just shoot for the fun of it and most any reloads done in the min-max range usually work just fine. I have never had any batches that were bad. Just some that might be cleaner then others.
I enjoy reloading but all that nonsense would take the fun out of it.
One thing I would never do- put reloads in factory boxes. I would never want my heirs to think they are shooting factory when it isn't.
Most of my targets are paper plates or 8.5 x 11 paper, some with a colored sticker in the center. If I hit anywhere it is good. That is not to say I don't try for good groups.
I use to be pretty fair on the "hostage shot" targets. Very seldom did I hit the hostage.
Do all of you do all of this record keeping and labeling?? You must all be professional shooters I guess.
I have only been reloading about 13 years and I just note the powder brand/amount & bullet weight. I just shoot for the fun of it and most any reloads done in the min-max range usually work just fine. I have never had any batches that were bad. Just some that might be cleaner then others.
I enjoy reloading but all that nonsense would take the fun out of it.
One thing I would never do- put reloads in factory boxes. I would never want my heirs to think they are shooting factory when it isn't.
Most of my targets are paper plates or 8.5 x 11 paper, some with a colored sticker in the center. If I hit anywhere it is good. That is not to say I don't try for good groups.
I use to be pretty fair on the "hostage shot" targets. Very seldom did I hit the hostage.
omt223
Bearcat
If its in plastic boxes I just write on the top with a paint marker and wipe it off with alcohol when it changes
I do that also. Red for .45s (.45 Colt, .45 ACP), Blue for .44 Special and .32 H&R, Green for .44 Mag, Green for .357 Mag, etc. All 100 round boxes come with the label which I noted in my above post that I just stick to the outside top of box with appropriate info. Dated to, so I can cycle the oldest first.
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