Leucoandro
Single-Sixer
My father has an old Model Bearcat on original configuration, that he got second hand, that is having some issues. My father originally attributed the issues to the trigger guard, because the cylinder latch spring and plunger had started wallowing on the hole in the trigger guard. I bought my father a replacement trigger guard in good condition from Numrich, but it did not fix the issue.
My father then went into more detail about the problem. When cocking the hammer:
First click (Quarter Cock/Safety Notch), the hammer still rests on the firing pin.
Second click (Half Cock/Loading Notch), the loading gate will not open unless the hammer is pulled back slightly beyond half cock.
Third click, normal.
Fourth click, the cylinder is not always locked into position. Sometimes it requires a little nudge.
I suspected the trigger, so I order a replacement trigger from Numrich. I also ordered a pawl and cylinder latch while I as at it because of the cylinder issue.
He installed all the parts (he did not install only the hammer first like I suggested) and tested the revolver. Everything worked better, except the hammer would not lock in the full cock position, and he said he thought the cylinder latch was dragging more than it used to. He said the bearing edge of the original trigger was noticeably shorter than replacement from Numrich.
He took the handgun and parts to a local gunsmith. The gunsmith honed the original trigger and put it back in. He might have replaced the original pawl as well. The gunsmith said it was good. Now the Old Model Bearcat has the following problems.
First click (Quarter Cock/Safety Notch), the hammer still rests on the firing pin.
Second click (Half Cock/Loading Notch), the loading gate will not open unless the hammer is pulled back slightly beyond half cock.
Third click, the cylinder latch seems to drag more than it used to.
Fourth click, the cylinder is not always locked into position. Sometimes it requires a little nudge.
Trying to diagnose it would seem that the previous owner might have shortened the bearing edge of the trigger for some reason. I suspect the unit probably only needed a replacement trigger stoned at the correct angle and fitted to the correct length. I am not great on the mechanics of revolvers, but it seems the cylinder drag issue could be caused by either or both the replacement pawl and cylinder latch.
Does anyone know of a gunsmith that specializes in Old Model Ruger's that my father could send the handgun to for repairs? It seems that the handgun needs to be timed and the replacement trigger fitted to the revolver. I could potentially do it myself, but I hate the idea of potentially messing up the trigger bearing face angle.
Charlie
My father then went into more detail about the problem. When cocking the hammer:
First click (Quarter Cock/Safety Notch), the hammer still rests on the firing pin.
Second click (Half Cock/Loading Notch), the loading gate will not open unless the hammer is pulled back slightly beyond half cock.
Third click, normal.
Fourth click, the cylinder is not always locked into position. Sometimes it requires a little nudge.
I suspected the trigger, so I order a replacement trigger from Numrich. I also ordered a pawl and cylinder latch while I as at it because of the cylinder issue.
He installed all the parts (he did not install only the hammer first like I suggested) and tested the revolver. Everything worked better, except the hammer would not lock in the full cock position, and he said he thought the cylinder latch was dragging more than it used to. He said the bearing edge of the original trigger was noticeably shorter than replacement from Numrich.
He took the handgun and parts to a local gunsmith. The gunsmith honed the original trigger and put it back in. He might have replaced the original pawl as well. The gunsmith said it was good. Now the Old Model Bearcat has the following problems.
First click (Quarter Cock/Safety Notch), the hammer still rests on the firing pin.
Second click (Half Cock/Loading Notch), the loading gate will not open unless the hammer is pulled back slightly beyond half cock.
Third click, the cylinder latch seems to drag more than it used to.
Fourth click, the cylinder is not always locked into position. Sometimes it requires a little nudge.
Trying to diagnose it would seem that the previous owner might have shortened the bearing edge of the trigger for some reason. I suspect the unit probably only needed a replacement trigger stoned at the correct angle and fitted to the correct length. I am not great on the mechanics of revolvers, but it seems the cylinder drag issue could be caused by either or both the replacement pawl and cylinder latch.
Does anyone know of a gunsmith that specializes in Old Model Ruger's that my father could send the handgun to for repairs? It seems that the handgun needs to be timed and the replacement trigger fitted to the revolver. I could potentially do it myself, but I hate the idea of potentially messing up the trigger bearing face angle.
Charlie